Hey, any solution to fix this?? Air pump seems works, valves are clean. Thanks

 

If you want any help rather than guesses you should list all the symptoms. Does the pump run and stop after 30 seconds or so? etc.

 

Seeing as how I just went through this, ill advise what mine was.

My symptoms were the pump would stay ON, unless unplugged. It burnt out one and I had to get another one sadly. My problem was the air pump relay armature was stuck and had burned some.

I had to buy some emery paper (got a few sheets from autozone) and some contact spray(radio shack) to fix my issue. I took the armature out and sanded it with the emery paper and sanded the relay all the burnt areas then I cleaned it up with contact spray and so far it has been fine.

Now your car might not being doing what mine was but ive laid out a possible problem and solution for you.

 

I'd bet he has the OPPOSITE problem: pump not running.

Caused by bad pump or bad solder on the RCB.

But until he tells us more, who knows?

 

It is my understanding that a bad contact somewhere or from being just plain sticky causes excessive sparking on the contacts in relays and the only solution is to repair the problem and get back a near mirror finish on the contact faces. A coarse finish and/or a flat surface on the contacts encourages multiple sparking when closing and will cause burning faster than ever.
Points are actually burnished to get a fine surface finish, they are not nice and shiny for nothing, if it were so they would not bother to finish them so well. I would look into replacing that relay ASAP.

I stand to be corrected by members who know about this stuff as I know little or nothing about it.

Sparkie? Pizzaguy?

 

Relays that have DC coils and that switch DC current were a big part of my job up till about the mid 1990's.

Back in the days before electronic antenna switches, I burnished a LOT of relay contacts. His burnishing of the contacts SHOULD yield a less-resistive contact. The resistance that may have built up from contamination and arcing would be the kind of thing that would feed on itself, getting worse faster and faster.

In DC circuits, arcing (and the pitting of the contacts that it causes) can be due to inductive loads (like a motor). It can also occur when the load is pulling more current that the relay is designed for.

Sealed relays perform better, since no contaminates can get to the contacts and mess them up - certainly not the case with the open-frame relays in our cars. I suspect we will see a LOT more troubles like this as the cars age.

But another cause is an armature that moves too slowly. Again, with open frame relays, anything that gets in there to impede the movement of the armature can cause trouble. His spraying of cleaner around may have done more good for the armature than for the actual contacts themselves.

I'd like to see how long this repair lasts! I am not too cynical about his repair, Dave. And again, I think we are going to see these kind of failures more and more. I think Tightd1's replacement/loaner RCB thing may turn into one of us starting a relay-replacement service. These little 12 volt relays are common, and replacing every one on the board (if you have desoldering equipment other than that damn "solder wick", which I do) should only take 1/2 hour.

 

Armature moving too slowly is what I meant by "sticky", I did not know that the part was called an armature.You could say I'm an amateur on armatures.

 

Like me with women....

 

Moving too slow or amateur?

 

Since there is no zero crossing with DC like there is with AC current, DC contacts tend to wear until they weld. There should actually be some slight wiping action as the contacts come together. For inductive loads or even commutated loads it is nice to have a set of series contacts to minimize or quench the arc. Twice the contact area on separated contacts will usually result in lifetime contacts. Of course car companies don't do this but it is common in industrial situations. It is also possible to build a snubber circuit if the arc is horrendous.

 

Thanks guys, will try to check all components, could you tell me how long pump should work?

Also I have question about transmission fluid if I change the fluid do I need to connect the car to diagnostic tool to change the service date etc?

 

You are correct, I knew this would only be a temp thing as the contact on the armature had fused together with the relay contact and both ends were rough.

I'll be replacing the relay now. It did last a week though. Im not a fan of open relays at all.