Hey guys. I bought a used 2004 Chrysler Crossfire automatic coupe this last October. Some background info: The first week I bought it I had the "OIL HI" light come on and the check engine light for error P0410. The dealer drained some oil out for the "OIL HI" light, and after some fighting they paid to have the relay control module replaced. This fixed the P0410 code.

The car has been running great until this week. I went to accelerate from a complete stop and the car was accelerating extremely slowly. At the next complete stop I tried to accelerate and it wouldn't accelerate at all. It wouldn't rev at all. It was like it wasn't registering my foot being on the pedal. The "OIL HI" light came on and the the check engine light came on. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could accelerate. While the check engine light was on, I took it to my mechanic here in town. At that point, the "OIL HI" light was no longer present. The code is P0123 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input. After some research my mechanic stated that it's probably either one of two things. The accelerator pedal switch ($200-$300 for the part) or the throttle body sensor ($1,100 to replace).

He stated that if he were me, he would take it home and see if the issue goes away on it's own. Maybe as it gets warmer. He also stated that he would sell the car as this is "probably only the beginning of my future problems with it" and that parts are going to be expensive and hard to find. He said Chrysler dealers don't even want to work on them (Crossfires).

Does anyone have any experience with this error? What should I try first? Feeling hopeless :/.

EDIT: Did some research here on the forums and will try a "throttle reset" when I get off work.

 

He is right about parts costs and dealerships. But now that you are here, we can help you around these issues.

Stay tuned. Those more knowledgeable than I will be around to help.

But kudos on getting a new RCM. But fact is, the code was an easy fix by resoldering a land on the RCM or changing the relay. Happens all the time.

Also I have put 60000 miles on my car running it with only 8 quarts oil. Not 8.5 If I put in 8.5 my light comes on a lot.

 

Save yourself some money and get another mechanic, this one is a loser with a negative attitude, that is a combination that will cost you a lot of money.
People here have throttle bodies they have taken off when modding and would be glad to let you have it for next to nothing. Or you could buy the larger throttle body and start modding yourself.

 

Thanks for the tip on the oil amount regarding the 'OIL HI' light. I'll have to take a look. When I first bought the vehicle I thought I was going to end up having to go the resoldering route on the RCM. But the dealer finally agreed to take care of it (after a lot of calls/voicemails) since the P0410 was thrown a day or so after purchasing.

I really do love the car. It's the first nice/sporty car I've ever owned. I don't want to sell it. And I love the knowledge/helpfulness of the forum community here. After some research it looks like my best bet is to first try resetting the throttle and then possibly look into replacing the accelerator pedal assembly (part # 5098494AA)? The cheapest I've found for that particular part is here for $223.10 with $15.29 shipping.

All advice/suggestions are welcome. Hoping to find others who have had the same error code. Curious of their solution.

 

Do you think the issue is likely with the throttle body? Or would you start with the pedal? I've done some research on the forums and found that MrMoPar seems to have fixed this code with an accelerator pedal assembly replacement. But others say it is likely a throttle body issue. Just not sure where to start. I should mention that I know very little about cars. I normally do my car maintenance/repairs with my dad. I try to watch and learn. He helps me with my vehicles, I help him with his computers .

I do like the idea of a used throttle body for "next to nothing" a lot better than a new OEM for $840+ if that ends up being the issue.

 

Location.. Location.. Location.. if you were close here.. I have two throttle bodies with a "try it before you buy it" deal..

Upgraded my car and my wifes to the 74mm. so two known good ones on the shelf now.

 

The throttle body is MUCH cheaper.
Go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
choose 2004 mercedes sl series, then throttle body.
on next screen choose a 230 type ( these are the 74mm TB's, you have a 68MM OEM TB )
The 74 will directly replace the 68, better high RPM torque, and actually better MPG's

Call the yard and make sure the part number on the black plastic cover is 113 141 0125

 

Sorry MM, didn't mean to step on your sales pitch : I was posting same time as you.

 

Wow I love this forum. You guys are great. I remember you ala_xfire. You helped me out in my last thread when I first purchased the car!



Is the throttle body the same for all three of those 230 types?

Thanks

 

Yeah there goes that $25 bucks.. thanks man.. LOL

 

Not sure, the important thing is to verify the part is 113 141 0125 before ordering.
( or for $25, get a replacement 68MM one from MrMiata )

and as MM said : location ?

 

I"m a cheap date when it comes to helping out a member in need.. LOL..

 

P0123 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input
It is telling you that it sees a problem with the pedal's sensor. Seems clear cut to me.
I REALLY think it's the sensor at the pedal.





But I also think the earth is flat and Kelly Clarkson is gonna go to the DRagon with me.

 

I've read a whole lot more post about the pedal than the throttle body.. thus the "try it before you buy it" - Local offer..

 

The throttle position sensor is in the throttle body, so ..

(p0120) throttle position sensor
1/2 correlation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-59
(p0121) apps 5-volt supply circuit . . . . . .9-61
(p0122) apps signal #1 circuit low . . . . . .9-65
(p0123) apps signal #1 circuit high . . . . . .9-70
Taken from the 2004 Service Manual.
Take MrM up on his offer.

 

Well after a ton of research on the forum today and reading all of your comments I think I've decided to start with replacing the Throttle body. This seems to be a cheap place to start and could likely be the problem.

Mr.Miata, thank you very much for the offer on your used throttle body. I might just take you up on this offer. I live in Ohio. However, after hours of research and reading through a lot of your old posts and other members, I'm starting to think maybe this maybe this is the perfect opportunity to do my first crossfire mod. The 74mm mercedes throttle body. I guess I figure, if I'm going to be replacing it, I might as well be upgrading it for a little more money? As it appears you aren't very worried about the $25, and you have done this mod yourself, I was wondering if you could answer some questions for me?

It looks like I will be needing the following:

Guide: 74mmTBUpgradeV3 + MERCEDES ENGINE COVER and 74mm THROTTLE BODY MODIFICATION
Throttle Body Unit (1131410125): http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-05-06-MERCEDES-E500-THROTTLE-BODY-ASSEMBLY-OEM-1131410125-/291002025378?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c11285a2&vxp=mtrThrottle Body O-Ring (305 997 03 45): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W202-W203-W204-NEW-GENUINE-Throttle-Housing-O-Ring-305-997-03-45-/151161574603?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2331ee94cb&vxp=mtrMass Air Flow Housing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-10-MERCEDES-MASS-AIR-FLOW-SENSOR-METER-MAF-S500-S430-1130940048-0280217810-/300854699060?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460c566434&vxp=mtr
From what I read, you don't HAVE to replace the MAF when upgrading to the 74mm TB, but it seems everyone recommends it? Also, if I am understanding correctly - I will want to install the new MAF housing but replace the sensor on the new housing with the sensor on my current 68mm MAF housing? Should I purchase the NEW cheapo MAF housing linked above? or should I purchase a used mercedes one such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-05-MERCEDES-ML500-ML320-ML430-113-094-00-48-MASS-AIR-FLOW-METER-SENSOR-C46-/151182851096?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2333333c18&vxp=mtr? Do I need a larger MAF elbow? Are there any other parts you would recommend? Also, I saw someone mention a Eurocharged tune after replacing the TB. Is this necessary or just for those who have the tuning device?

Thanks again to all for the information/advice.

 

I didn't 100% verify your shown parts.. but your on track. Elbow is fine, you can "clear it's throat" so to say (baffle removal) or leave alone. Throttle body and gasket is all that you "need" unless you want the max performance you can get from the upgrade. The ECU will compensate fine for the upgrade. The tune is just getting more performance out of the car.

We've had some college students here that spending $150 bucks extra just doesn't fit in the books and ramen noodles budget, I know those kind of budgets from the past so helping out with a part I'll never use short of testing - trouble shooting isn't a second thought, but going the upgrade route is your best bet..

 

Do you have a link on how to do this? I did some searching and found a post you made with this picture.

So basically grind everything out of the throat until clear as shown on the right?
I've read on the forum where some people seem to have had some issues after upgrading to the 74mm throttle body, when not getting it retuned? But looks like the ECU eventually took care of the issue on it's own after a few hundred miles or the person upgrading to the 74mm TB made some sort of mistake in the upgrade?

Sorry for all the noob questions. Just trying to cover all my bases before diving in .

After doing much reading on the forums I think in the distant future after the 74mm TB upgrade, I will look into getting the needswing CAI + eurocharge tune done.

 

Actually not my pic (can't have someone getting sideways.. LOL). But "you are correct". Vice grips or channel locks will let you "back and forth twist" on the vane till it breaks loose.. then a dremel to carefullly smooth it out.
The issue as best I can tell has nothing to do with the tune or not tuned. I noticed my car would sometimes "hang" an extra second at 1500 rpm when coasting to a stop. It's somewhat hard to notice on automatics, but I'm sure real noticeable with a stick. They seem to just eventually work through it though.
Oh.. "noob questions"... You did your homework and sought out the information! So any gray area questions you have are more than welcome..

 

I have to admit-this Soma guy/gal is a reader.

I like him/her already!