Drive to the dragon lol? And I envy your ending results. I wish my car adapted like that.

 

So ignore the check engine light? And did yours sound like a tractor/ old v8?

 

Same symptoms... rough idle, shaking. It did , however clear out once the rpms came up...low rps...symptoms back.It took it about a week to clear up.BTW, the car was/is drivenl daily...Good luck..Carl

 

Well thank you for your input. I was tempted to put the stock tb back on but since it worked for you I'll give it a try. Again, your help was very much appreciated.

 

Update. Still running poorly. I don't know what to do.

 

Still throwing the MAF code? I would be checking for leaks with a propane torch (gas only..don't light it!)... keep engine cover on and run it around the TB to be sure gasket sealed - stayed in place during the install.

 

I don't have that handy but I did spray engine starter around it very well
And the engine ran the same. Like crap. Could it be the TB? Any other way to check?

 

Not impossible to have gotten one with a bad electronics in it. At this stage then I'd be real tempted to put the OEM back on.. and if all was well you would have the answer.

 

Did you check the O-ring?
Reattach vacuum lines?

 

Did that and saw that the o ring was bit a little when the two sealed. Put the old one back and it runs smooth like it should. It began staying at 1500 when in neutral, but it looked like it calmed down the more I drove it. I can tell I took it off though. The loss of "kick" that the new Tb brought makes me want to try it again.

 

Yeah, looked at everything more than 10 times. I wish I knew how to test the new TB to see if it's faulty. The old one made the car run great again so I'm guessing the TB was bad??? Maybe.

 

Well you did the work.. double and triple checked it sounds like.. and replacing the OEM back on the car would have shown anything missed pretty much. Running fine now just leaves a bad TB.

 

Yeah, you're right. Thank you for your help, it means a lot. I will try it again once I get my hands on another TB.
Best regards,

Joel

 

Well 50 bucks is 50 bucks.. but at least they are only about 50 bucks.. LOL.


Yours is actually the first I think that has actually gotten a bad one. I need to get in gear and break my roadster out for some test runs and logging (Torque Pro). Want to check out differences with Hot air intake from my coupe.. then install the 74mm I've got sitting here and do some more runs with stock box and "Hot air". This will be my 3rd 74mm upgrade.. hope it's not a 3rd strike and out on a used one..

 

The difference in acceleration and they way the feels when pushed a little is the reason why I want to look for another TB and take my chances again. It sucks knowing that I had a bad one but at least my check gone light is not on any more and my car doesn't sound like my dads old el
Camino. Lol besides the sound that the hot air intake gives the car, not sure what other gains you could get from it. I know that I'm going to try to push the intake out in front of the grill somehow. That's the real gain right there.

 

As long as the stock engine cover is in use you still have 25-30 degree over ambient temps. Advantage to HA is less restriction. I ran 1 side of intakes as HA and OEM on the other.. temps while moving were within 15 degrees of ambient. Less restrictive side was pulling the air and keeping the tract cooler.


And as a foot note.. everything I've googled.. 10 degrees = 1 hp. Kind of lets you put a price to how much do you want to spend for that 3HP gain.

 

Ah! Never thought about it that way. I tought it was worth it besides the bad idle. The car seems to take of faster and I'm was happy with it. We all know there's not a lot of performance mods we can do to our beloved crossfires but something is something lol

 

Yeah - sux you got a bum TB.. but they do add a little more fun to the pedal.. a lot of them on Ebay offer like a 15-30 day warranty on them.. Mine has sat in waiting for longer than that though.. LOL.

 

I've had similar idle issues for a long long time. I have a 74mm throttle body with needswings intake and eurocharged tune.
When coasting to a stop and I shift into neutral my idle shoots up to 1500rpm until I come to a dead stop then the idle goes down to normal.
I have two engine codes
P0422
P0432

If I disconnect my battery the car will run normal for part of the day if I'm lucky.

I've already replaced the O-Ring for the throttle body, replaced all vacuum lines and all connections to the vacuum lines have ring clamps as well.
I switched back to my stock tuning and still had the same problem.
Any suggestions?

 

I just know IF the car ran great BEFORE, and then crap AFTER (and all installation is 100% after three, four, and five times checking and rechecking, it HAS to be a bum TB (if the pins on the plug aren't damaged/crooked). My only suggestion is get another one before the 'warranty' is off the first one. Cannot help any more than that, sorry.


For the record, mine went 100% right the first time (the install) and I had the rough running for a short time frame (as in minutes) AND a throttle reset. I am not sure right now if I did the reset before, after, or both. I posted when I did it but am too lazy to find it. It was an eye opening difference, not an optimistic butt dyno evaluation either. I wish you success and luck in getting another TB, and successful install.