Today our 2004 Crossfire fell victim to the sticky key syndrome. I found the sticky here about it and also did some searching on youtube. The key would not turn at all for me. My son was able to get it to turn once in a while but we were concerned it would not be reliable. I found a guy who made a video on how to remove the key cylinder, if you could get the key to the ACC position, and sand it a little and get it to work. Well we did that. We got it all back together and now it still sticks. The problem is if I turn it all the way to the right, all the dash lights come on , but it will not start. It doesn't do anything. The battery is charged, all the accessories work, but no starter when the key is turned. So did we ruin the key cylinder? Right now I can pull the key out while it is still in ACC so I disconnected the battery and left it. I guess I need to know what to order to get it going again. Do I just need to try new keys and a cylinder from the dealer first, or should we get a whole new lock assembly, keys, and cylinder? Any help is appreciated.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsbs-how-articles/

The first post Sticky Ignition Key Fix will get you through the key not turning issue if it's not a park interlock problem. Automatic trans only.

It's not the key or the tumblers causing the stick so I am unsure what you could have done to the tumblers or key by sanding things or removing the tumblers. If it were mine I would start with the common fix and go through the PDF instructions to remove the pin & spring that are under the cover to see if this frees up the tumblers.

 

You can pick up a new tumbler from the MZB Dealer, it's around 70 bucks, replace it with your current tumbler. Do the column lock fix while you have the key assembly out. Get a blank key in a new case, cut it to match the new tumbler, remove the little black plastic piece behind the red lens and replace it with the one in your original case. And you'll be fine.

Dave

 

The MZB dealer will sell you parts without a MZB VIN? I have not heard of much success doing that.

And it would take the car off the grid so to speak when it comes to getting replacement keys from places like Needswings or a Chrysler dealer since there is a key/VIN mismatch now.

I just want to make sure the OP knows this before proceeding this way.

 

I had to do that to my '04, not sure what you mean, if the tumbler is bad, you have to fix it.

I took the key housing into the parts department at the Fresno MZB dealership, they ordered the tumbler, it came with a key. Cost around $70. I replaced the defective tumbler with the new one, ordered an original key and case, uncut off of ebay for $50 I believe. Took the chip out of my original case and put it in the new case with the key cut to match the new tumbler. Simple, easy and it works perfectly.

The tumbler assembly doesn't have the micro chip I think you are concerned with, the receiver is wired to the car and the chip is in your case. If you keep the chip no reprograming is required. Not sure how it would take it off the grid, the chip is what is connected to the serial number.

There are two problems associated with the key not turning, one is the column lock and the other is a worn out tumbler. The column lock is a good thing to remove when you get into the key assembly. But if the tumbler is worn out, it has to be replaced, it won't fix itself.


Dave

 

I don't see how you can say it's not the tumbler, on my '04 I went the route you suggested, it did not fix my problem, it WAS the tumbler. After removing the pin and spring and still not having my key turn, I took the switch to a local locksmith and he reaffirmed the same. My tumbler was allowing the key to go into too far and consequently, it would not turn. Maybe the column lock fixed your problem, but that doesn't make it an all-inclusive fix. If the tumbler is worn out, you can fix the column lock all day and it won't fix the problem.

Dave

 

I said it may not be the tumbler to the OP, not yours. You must be in the very small minority that have tumbler problems but the overwhelming majority are the locking pin. By what the OP said the sanding of the key may have caused the key/tumbler issue so they might still have the locking pin issue and we don't know yet since they have not returned to post what they found.

When it comes to trouble shooting go for the most common first. I don't recall seeing one post saying after doing the pin removal a few thousand miles later the tumblers are now bad.

I still don't recommend getting non VIN specific tumblers for the ignition as this will force you to a locksmith every time. VIN specific tumblers allow a Needswings replacement FOB to work.

Could you have taken the new key cut and put it in your original FOB to make things simpler than transferring all the guts to a new housing?

 

If the tumbler is the problem you can always just remove the first and/or second one. The ledge on the tumbler that the key raises gets worn but it's usually the first. Our keys tip stop instead of using a shoulder.


With the chip and the alarm it probably wont make much difference about someone trying to steal the car.

 

I was out of town for the weekend. Thanks for all the suggestions. Here is what I came up with. It is my son's car and he lives away at college most of the year. Because of this I didn't want him to get stranded somewhere. So, I went to the Chrysler dealer today and ordered anew key cylinder matched to my VIN. I also ordered the lock housing. I know I paid more but it was the quickest way to try to get him going again. They told me that the cylinder will match my keys and I just have to install the new parts. Is there anything else you guys can suggest for the install? I have the pdf from the site saved and it looks straight forward. I can still get the key cylinder out because I left it in the acc position and disconnected the battery. Thanks for the help.

 

Go ahead and do the mod about pulling the pin and spring before installing. Even a new one will do it again.

 

Later ones were modified by removing the pin and spring. Later Xfires had the modified lock from the factory.

 

I remember reading that especially since the "fix" says 2004 thru 2006. Someone else here posted that they bought a brand new one and it still had the pin. The discussion turned to you would think if they changed the design that all the old stock would be used already in production and any new ones would be the pin removed variety.

 

When the new one comes in I will post a picture of both for comparison. Maybe it will help someone down the road.

 

Folks, I can use some help.

Did the sticky fix yesterday - went well. Took out small pin and spring.

I was proactive - had no issue before.

Started car 2 times after fix - drove it - key mechanism felt perfect.

Today I go out to re-program radio and key does not turn at all.

2004 w/17k miles. stick.

Help?

 

Did you try a second key to be sure that wasn't the issue?

 

Spray the key with WD40 and work it in & out several times. Might help.

 

other key 25 miles away - no can do.....

 

sprayed WD40 - it seemed hazards flashed 1 time with key inserted and I tried to turn - no progress!

 

I know this is too obvious to be 'it' but you don't have the wheel cranked, do you? What I mean is, do you have a lot of stress on the locking mechanism? That is, have you tried gripping the wheel and turning it to make sure it is not just caught by "wheel tension"?

I am not wording this very well...................... but my sister is in the hospital and things look very, very bad. My mind is not right.

 

My coupe has "stickey key".. or even Locked up by most peoples standards.. daughter even spent an hour trying when she borrowed the car.. A fast "snap your fingers" type roll of the key works every time.. not forced but "snap fast"..