On Friday afternoon I had to make a round trip of about 75 miles in my crossfire and had no problems at all. However, about an hour and a half after I got home I went to drive it again and it wouldn't start. All of the interior and exterior lights would come on along with the radio, but the engine wouldn't crank or even attempt to. I thought I may have left a light on or something and run the battery down and didn't really worry about it as I had access to another vehicle at the time. But I went to check it about two hours after it wouldn't crank the first time and it started right up with no problems. I wasn't sure if somehow I just didn't turn the key right or something the last time and made the stupid mistake in thinking it would be okay to drive. I had to drive about 15 miles to my destination and had no problems. But while I was just sitting in neutral waiting on a friend my crossfire just suddenly stalled and wouldn't crank again. All of the lights and electricity seemed to be working fine, but it just wouldn't crank. Thankfully my friend jumped me off and I started heading back home. But about 4 miles later, as I was driving, it was if I felt a sudden loss of power in the engine and was not able to make the car go forward. It was in gear, and when I pressed on the gas pedal the engine would rev up, but it wouldn't push the car at all. And when I finally came to a stop it stalled again. I couldn't start the engine again, but still had all the power like before. To make the rest of a long story short, I had to get jumped off then and one more time on the way home. Same exact way each time. I had my car towed today to a repair shop in town that says its the computer in the engine that's messed up and are saying it has to be replaced and quoted an outrageous price. But in reading Ive read that other people have had issues like mine and it turned out to be issues with the crankshaft sensor. Does anyone know what it could be? They want to replace it in the morning and I really don't want to spend the money if its not necessary! Or should I take it to an actual dealership and ask them to do their own checks on it?

 

Sounds like the dreaded Crankshaft position sensor to me. Easy cheap fix CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE ROADSTER SRT-6 2004 TO 2006 CRANKSHAFT PULSE SENSOR | eBay

Buy one online and do it yourself.

 

Will cost you about $15 and 20 mins of your time ;-)

 

Make sure the replacement is a Bosch. Aftermarket sensors other than a Bosch have a track record of failure, due to a variety of reasons. Cheaply made to bad connections of the male, female insertion points on the sensor.
Please clarify, would not crank. Does that mean engine would not turn over and start or the starter would not engage? If its getting warm then ,its acting as if the battery is dead, you will want to look up RCM (Relay Control Module).

 

YOU NEED TO GET YOUR CAR OUT OF THAT SHOP!!!!
If you can't make the repair yourself then take it to an independent shop that specializes in European imports/Merceds. NO DEALERSHIPS!!!
The crankshaft position sensor is often a heat related problem and shows itself when the car is warm. After a period of cool down it will often start again until it warms up and then again stalls.
Mercedes part number # A003 153 2828, Bosch # 0 261 210 170You have been a member here for some time. Come here FIRST. Tow only as a last resort.
P.S. Get yourself a scan tool so you can read the diagnostic codes. under $50

 

If it doesn't crank, it's not the crankshaft position sensor.


Get your car outta that shop! You can do this!

 

I maybe should've been a little more clear when I said it wouldn't crank. It would crank fine every time I tried each day after I got it home the night that it died out on me. Even when it got towed yesterday, it would still crank. I was just afraid that it might would die out on me again while driving it to a shop to have it looked at. I told them not to do any work to it and it was taken to a Chrysler dealership where they are only going to run their own test on it for about the price of buying my own diagnostic tool. That's my main concern right now, is just being sure on what the issue is. And Im not trying to discredit anything anyone who has replied to me has said, but as you can see I have gotten a couple of various possibilities in the responses from other crossfire owners who obviously know way more about my car than I do. So that's why I am having it looked at again just to see what the dealership says. And I will look into a shop specializing in European cars because that does sound a lot smarter than taking it to a Chrysler dealership. I am pretty ashamed to admit that I probably shouldn't even own my crossfire just because of my general lack of knowledge about cars and engines and the crossfire deserves an owner that has the knowledge, but I cant help loving my car lol.

 

If you are smart enough to know better than to take it to a Chrysler dealer, you are worthy of owning the car.

 

And to replace the RCM, you don't even have to own a single tool. Plus you have several options. 1- remove it and send it to tighed1, for a small fee he will repair it. Bout $40 round trip. 2-Buy one from rockauto.com, bout $140. Just wait to see what the shop says an costs,THEN you will understand why everyone here steers you away from a Stealership. Just a little bit of confidence goes a long way. Let us know what happens next.

 

So if the problem is the RCM, do you think a normal Chrysler dealership will find that in their diagnostic test? The repair shop in my town I originally had it taken to only said that it was the "computer in the engine" and when I called the parts department at the dealership they wanted to send the car to, I asked about the "engine computer" for a crossfire and they quoted me $2600 just for a replacement one. Obviously that's so much more than the $140 you mentioned in your post. So is there more than one computer in the engine that the repair shop could've been talking about? Or does it sound like they don't really know what they are talking about?

 

There is the PTCM module ( Power Train Control Module ), the BCM ( Body Control Module ) and the RCM ( Relay Control Module ) located in the box by the battery.
The PTCM and BCM have 'computers' in them, the RCM does not, all it has are relays and a couple of diodes.

 

Vipor3D, you said it " they don't really know what they are talking about?" I think we all concur.
Looks like you are running the diagnostic at Chrysler, so OK, but you must get the exact codes from their test. The actual numbers from them like: P0410; don't let them simple tell you the computer is bad or the such and such is messed up. GET THE NUMBERED CODE or CODES.
THEN, Come back here BEFORE authorizing any work.

 

If it IS cranking (engine turns over) and not starting then CPS is usually the issue and you will most likely get a fault code. However, the RCM contains the fuel pump relay and we have seen those fail or work intermittently, and the car will crank. I can do the RCM repairs if you are interested ($27).


So. Did you find out if there were any codes?

 

Sad me! I just retrieved my '08 from the dealer's repair service. It needed a new crank position sensor $264 and new main engine relay $377. Labor $460. Tax $77. I even paid $60 for a tow that I didn't need because when the tow truck arrived, the car started right up and I drove it onto the truck. Live and learn. I should have taken it home and checked this forum before I did the extreme dealer option.

 

If I may ask a somewhat related question. As I look at Rock Auto they show 2 different RCMs:

1) STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY1562 Fuse Panel w/ Fuses Included for $129
2) AIRTEX / WELLS 1R2032 {#20689, 5099007AA, 68002488AA} for $142

What's the difference if any?

 

looking at the 2 pictures there, either one should be fine. ( get the cheaper one )
The key to looking at these RCM's is the fuses, both are identical and correct.

 

Thank you Sir.

 

Had a similar problem. The engine would crank and crank all day and not start. Once it finally did, the check engine would stay on for about 20-30 miles and go out. The code called for the crankshaft sensor. Had it replaced but now when I accelerate quickly and get on it a little, the engine cuts out but has only stalled once. It still has issues.

 

Look at the bright side At least the dealer replaced the correct parts! It could have been much worse.

 

Sounds to me like your set on letting the stealership fix it. Bring a big check (I suspect you'll need it).


When and if it is released back to you, I hope it works (after you pay through the nose).


Many in here are confident you can fix it with help from all the experiences here. Good luck with whatever you choose!

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