hi guys I've been following this forum room a long time and have had big help with all your write up.

for the past year I have not really able to drive my car I've had battery draining issues. And now does not start.

*the car has had a new battery installed less than 3 months old
* alternator replaced 10month old
*rcm module replace 1 month old

so before the car broken down when I was driving I kept getting the battery symbol flash was indicating the battery was low or not charging however when I push the car to accelerated above 50mph speed the light would go awayway it's only started happening when the the alternator was replaced I went back to the garage and they said to me they done test and alternator is working and charging battery and sent me away.

other issue I had was on very hot sunny days the car would not crack no sound nothing and would not start I was told that the rcm unit was gone so I was advised to change the rcm which I done.

the battery of the car still was draining so I thought maybe the battery is faulty installed a new battery after installing new battery is still draining so I've removed it one night and left it on the charger but by the time I got round to the reinstalling to car it was a few month after it was removed.

And after putting the battery back into the car it will not start I believe the skreem has gone as it cracked three times and I have to disconnect the battery and back again and cracks another 3 time.
I'm also having the fuse 37 keeps blowing every time I replace it straight away the manual say fuse 37 is for Circulating Air, Instrument Cluster, Radio Frequency Remote Control, Residual Engine Heat Utilization

also I don't know if this is related or if the car is like that when I try and start the car i get no instrument lights symbols on the dashboard they do not come on at all when trying to start the car.

I need your help to find a place in uk London area to fix the skreem module or maybe this another issue and also any of you guys have an idea why the fuse 37 keeps blowing straight away everytime the fuse is changed.

 

Did you put in a brand new RCM or a used one? If it’s a used one it’s probable that it has the classic case of the three soldering joints being broken or one of the relays being burned out. That’s probably what was wrong with your original and can be fixed easy peezy. DJ Tighe refurbishes them over here in the states. Just search for RCM repair and his email is in there somewhere. I’d hit him up about the RCM. Also even a new one could be faulty as well with the bad soldering on the three contacts, unlikely but possible. Someone else will chime in on this that I’m sure of. I don’t know if you use Facebook but if you do and you’re on there I’d post this in Crossfire groups, you’ll get all the help you need to fix this problem that I can promise. Good luck fella 🤙🏼

 

Fuse 37 feeds the SKREEM, your car either has a bad SKREEM or something ELSE is blowing that fuse and disabling the SKREEM. (Fuse 37 is also one of the feeds to the instrument panel - which explains some/all of the other symptoms.)

The service manual is fairly accurate - what needs to happen here is for SOMEONE to grab the service manual, and use it to intelligently isolate the cause of the blowing fuse.
Good luck with this, I doubt the 'mechanics' in the UK are any better than those over here, when it comes to diagnosing a simple blown fuse.

ANYONE chasing this and NOT referring to the diagrams in the service manual is wasting their time.

 

It was a new rcm I bought directly from the Mercedes garage

 

pull out the black foam pieces under the trunk carpet and let us know if there is water down there?

 

I concur....

Pull out the service manual and begin isolating components powered by fuse 37. First check to see if there is ground continuity in that circuit. That will let you know if you have a short to ground. If it is not a short to ground, it means something in the circuit has an amp draw beyond what the circuit is rated for, and it's popping the fuse. In this case, unplug the components one at a time and check with a fresh fuse.

That's how I would do it anyways. Wiring diagrams can be confusing, but will point you in the right direction. Isolating components give you a sure fire way to figure what is causing your issue.

Jared

 

I pulled out the black foam no water the the central locking pump works as I hear it and it does open and all the door cars there is another black box piece on the side I don't know what that does but it don't appear like any water is the Trunk no drop of water absolutely dry in the boot.

 

Right hand drive..... that is so cool!!

Good luck with it.

Jared

 

I pulled out the black foam no water the the central locking pump works as I hear it and it does open and all the door cars there is another black box piece on the side I don't know what that does but it don't appear like any water is the Trunk no drop of water absolutely dry in the boot.

 

Also I removed the speed dial to remove the skreem I unplugged it and still fuse 37 blowing any other ideas of what else to remove to isolate why the fuse 37 is bad.

 

I'm going to poke around in the service manual and see if I can spot anything.

Jared

 

For starters, the service manual lists fuse 35 as the fuse for the Skreem.

Here is the circuit.

EDIT:...... sorry, fuse 37 also feeds the skreem and other circuits.

Jared

 

Have you checked for a dead short (short to ground) yet?

Jared

 

If the dash lights do not come on at all I would look there for the fuse problem.

 

I need to ring around and try to get an electrician out as I do not know how to use a multimetre it does make sense if the ground is short and maybe perhaps when I had alternator change they didn't do the ground properly on that causing High Voltage that's why it popping the fuse 37 wish me luck on finding a auto electrical.

 

what was the culprit?

 

He must have sold the car or something, that was his last post.