Well, I have a new wiring harness for my Audiobahn self-amplified tube, and I am considering installation soon. I plan on using the stock deck, and using the speaker-level inputs for a signal to the sub. I will use line-level converters for a clear input. This is what I think the steps will be in this car... could you please fill in the blanks?
1) Remove stock deck using special DIN tool:
- Where can I purchase one?
- What else can be used to remove the stock deck?
2) Wiring for the amp:
- Does anyone have a description of each wire in the stereo harness (so I can identify the purpose of each and tap into them, based on color)
- What is the best location to run a (+) lead to the engine bay, without drilling any holes? Is there a grommet that you've tapped through successfully, without any leaks?
- Where did you ground your amp?
- What is the best place to route wiring - through the console and under the carpets, or elsewhere?
- Will the yellow wire behind the deck suffice to turn the amp on & off? Is this the ignition lead on the Crossfire, as is often the case with other makes?
3) Secure amplifier to cargo compartment floor
- How did you do this, without drilling any holes? I might make a panel out of masonite, roughly the same size as the stock carpet cover, carpet it, and bolt the sub to that.
Any other advice you might have is welcomed.
Thanks

 

the removal tools are available from Crutchfield, as is the Scosche VW01 wiring harness. not that you need the wiring harness, but there is a pinout there if you cant find one on the forum.

there are existing holes behind the battery (IIRC, you'll have to take it out to see them, or do a search for more details).

when you run your power from the battery to the amp, run a second wire for ground. no smaller than 8 gauge, and fuse the power!

its always a good idea to separate audio wires from power wires; usually run them on separate sides of the car. but that center console is just so damn convenient...

don't use the yellow wire to turn the amp on and off, use the remote wire that's used to turn the factory amp on and off. its in the stereo harness that connects to the rear of the head unit.

securing it depends on how creative you want to get; could be as simple as velcro, or a piece of plywood cut out to the shape of the trunk floor. but how do you secure the plywood (masonite) to the trunk floor if you're not drilling?


have fun take pictures --

 

Thanks for the info. Any idea what color the remote wire is? And, any idea what colors are used for the speaker wires? I have to tap into them, for an amp signal (as I assume the stock deck does not have any RCA outputs).

BTW, I figure I won't have to bolt down the masonite sheet, as the mass of the subwoofer and the perfect fit of the panel ought to keep it from going anywhere. And, I figure a 1/4" thick masonite panel with holes drilled through it will not add more than a few pounds. to the car, esp. if the stock cover is removed and stored away.

 

The Remote wire nine times out of ten is blue. The smart way to do this is get a multimeter and use it to find a wire that it's on while the ignition is off and is on when the ignition is on (make sure that you are getting a 12 VDC when the ignition is on) The way that I have found works best is to disconnect the stock CD play and place the pins from the multimeter into the openings on the wire harness. Make sure you don't stick the grounding wire for the multimeter into the wire harness openings. I Hope this helps you out. Also you want to keep the ground wire for you amp as short as possible. This will help your amp perform better.

 

that won't work. the remote wire gets 12V from the head unit, and only shows 12V when the radio is on, not just the ignition. disconnecting the harness from the head unit will make finding the remote wire useless.

there are two schools of thought for the ground. (1) as short as possible and (2) ground everything in the same spot so you avoid ground loops. if you ground it in the trunk and you get a buzz, you have to run it all the way back the battery anyway. that's why i suggested to run the wire anyway, just in case your short wire doesn't work --

 

NXMX5 is right about the remote I had a brain fart for a second. It's been a long day for me sorry about the miss information on the remote wire.

 

So what color is the remote wire? I accidently tapped into the constant 12v. (Red/green stripe )