Jacking up the car?
That's the problem with the TPMS ...
If you change out a tire - trip to dealer to recalibrate,
if you have a faulty battery - trip to dealer.
There must be a way to recalibrate without dealer or the thing is not worth the hassle.
If you change out a tire - trip to dealer to recalibrate,
if you have a faulty battery - trip to dealer.
There must be a way to recalibrate without dealer or the thing is not worth the hassle.
Help! I got a 2 ton jack and jack stands but I don't know how to use both! I jacked up the passenger side by the front jack point and it lifted the rear tire too, but I don't know where to position the jack stand so I can lower it down. I looked under with it jacked up and I can't decide where to put the jack stand. Better still, I'd like to know where to jack it up so I can put the stand on the jack points. Is there one location we can jack up the entire front end and put two jack stands under the 2 front jack points?
Originally Posted by JonZoidberg
Help! I got a 2 ton jack and jack stands but I don't know how to use both! I jacked up the passenger side by the front jack point and it lifted the rear tire too, but I don't know where to position the jack stand so I can lower it down. I looked under with it jacked up and I can't decide where to put the jack stand. Better still, I'd like to know where to jack it up so I can put the stand on the jack points. Is there one location we can jack up the entire front end and put two jack stands under the 2 front jack points?
As far as the rear, place your jack stands directly under the rear A arm connection bolts (junction) that attach your rear wheels to the frame on the inboard side... this point is appx. 12" inboard of your rear wheels and is impossible to miss since it has a big A S S bolt...
Then drop your jack and run like hell
Last edited by HDDP; Dec 28, 2007 at 07:29 PM.
I'll give that a shot next time, thanks. I'd seen someone else say to jack up close to the wheels and then put the stand at the jack points. I didn't want to try that since the front suspension is independent and I thought that might put too much stress on it. I finally said what the hell but I found I couldn't do it anyway because my floor jack doesn't have enough clearance to actually pump it when it's that far under the car.
By the way, thanks for the speedy response! but in the meantime I borrowed a pal's ramps and after chocking them with some 2x4's against my garage wall, I put it up on the ramps, chocked the rear wheels, and did my first oil change. I'm glad the bottom 6 inches of my garage wall is concrete. So, in about 7000 miles I'll give it a go. However, I wonder would the jack stands there get in the way while I'm changing the oil?
I guess I'd feel as comfortable under 2 jack stands and well chocked rear wheels as I would under anything else. I guess I could throw some lumber under there too, but it's not necessary. I do believe in the idea of sticking the spare under the car when in a pinch, however.
I'm glad I've decided to change the oil myself, the last guy who did it cranked the drain bolt all to hell. I came and checked the forum to see if I had missed where it said that it was backwards and loosened to the right. I had to wrap a pot holder over the socket because my hands were getting too sore from pulling. I finally was able to break it loose. Doesn't need to be so tight.
By the way, thanks for the speedy response! but in the meantime I borrowed a pal's ramps and after chocking them with some 2x4's against my garage wall, I put it up on the ramps, chocked the rear wheels, and did my first oil change. I'm glad the bottom 6 inches of my garage wall is concrete. So, in about 7000 miles I'll give it a go. However, I wonder would the jack stands there get in the way while I'm changing the oil?
I guess I'd feel as comfortable under 2 jack stands and well chocked rear wheels as I would under anything else. I guess I could throw some lumber under there too, but it's not necessary. I do believe in the idea of sticking the spare under the car when in a pinch, however.
I'm glad I've decided to change the oil myself, the last guy who did it cranked the drain bolt all to hell. I came and checked the forum to see if I had missed where it said that it was backwards and loosened to the right. I had to wrap a pot holder over the socket because my hands were getting too sore from pulling. I finally was able to break it loose. Doesn't need to be so tight.
Originally Posted by JonZoidberg
I put it up on the ramps, chocked the rear wheels, and did my first oil change. .
Probably not. I would have preferred to use the jacks so I could have lowered it during the drain. When I filled the oil bottles I did get 8 quarts, minus what stayed in the drip pan. So I'm confident I got almost all of it. The ramps almost touched the bottom of the front end before I drove up on them, so the front end wasn't lifted too much. It was just enough room to get under and get to work.
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