Quote:
Originally Posted by tighed1

I like my fix. STILL holding strong 1.5 years where I repaired it. (another unrepaired section is currently in need of repair).

LINKY


Hi tighed1,

I have a couple additional questions about your fix.

1. In your case on the repairs you did, was the fabric clean and pulled away from the glass with all the original adhesive/primer still intact on the glass?

2. Did you do anything to the fabric...scrap it, or clean it , or put any of the 3M product on it?

3. I know you did not use any primer the first time, but have you used any since then on the newer repairs you did?

4. If all your repairs are holding up, and it is only additional factory locations that are failing, have you considered going back and redoing the seal in all other locations that have not failed as yet to get it done and out of your hair, since the probability of additional failures occuring is very high?

5. If the failure is consistantly between the original adhesive and the fabric, is it necessary to remove the old adhesive that is still intact and well bonded to the glass? Would you consider putting a thin layer of the 3M stuff you are using on the fabric side and on the existing window side on top of the stuff that is there? If the 3M adhesive is the true bond, wouldn't using it as an interface layer be a beter fix, especially if it is bonding into both sides? What do you think?

Once again, thanks in advance for your comments and expertise in solving this problem. I am in the same position as many where the top is in very good condition and it is the glass/fabric problem that is the issue. My top is 5 years old, and have not had a problem until this recent heat wave where temps were above 95F with high humidity...that was the killer!

I do not keep my car inside, and when I noticed the glass/fabric separating, i've keep a car cover over it...hoping to minimize any additional damage, until I can repair it. It is silver and should help.

Thanks again for your help and any comments from the forum are greatly appreciated.

Also, I read the post using the "Rhino Glue" repair and that sounds promising, and I am interested in any updates on that...but the history of this repair still has the most credibility. Thanks

Ben


BRappaport
'05 Limited Crossfire - Aero Blue Roadster
Autostick
Purchased New - Feb. 2006
Speaker Cap. Upgrade added
Raggtopp Brand Cleaner and Protectant for Top
Radiator Recall done
Secondary Air injection pump replaced
Third Brake Light Replaced
Both valve covers replaced
#52648

 

Hi tighed1,

I have a couple additional questions about your fix.

1. In your case on the repairs you did, was the fabric clean and pulled away from the glass with all the original adhesive/primer still intact on the glass?
As I recall I had to razor off the glus that remained on the glass.
2. Did you do anything to the fabric...scrap it, or clean it , or put any of the 3M product on it?
Did nothing to the fabric.
3. I know you did not use any primer the first time, but have you used any since then on the newer repairs you did?
No primer used and still holding but I am convinced that prime should be used to ensure a better repair.
4. If all your repairs are holding up, and it is only additional factory locations that are failing, have you considered going back and redoing the seal in all other locations that have not failed as yet to get it done and out of your hair, since the probability of additional failures occuring is very high?
If and when I redo it I will redo it with the primer now that I'm aware of it.
5. If the failure is consistantly between the original adhesive and the fabric, is it necessary to remove the old adhesive that is still intact and well bonded to the glass? Would you consider putting a thin layer of the 3M stuff you are using on the fabric side and on the existing window side on top of the stuff that is there? If the 3M adhesive is the true bond, wouldn't using it as an interface layer be a beter fix, especially if it is bonding into both sides? What do you think?
I removed the adhesive that was on the glass. There were parts of the fabric that I applied the glue to where the fold (fabric is folded at the bonding area) had separated.
Once again, thanks in advance for your comments and expertise in solving this problem. I am in the same position as many where the top is in very good condition and it is the glass/fabric problem that is the issue. My top is 5 years old, and have not had a problem until this recent heat wave where temps were above 95F with high humidity...that was the killer!

I do not keep my car inside, and when I noticed the glass/fabric separating, i've keep a car cover over it...hoping to minimize any additional damage, until I can repair it. It is silver and should help.
When I park outside I use my California Pop Top to keep the heat off of the glass. BTW one problem I have had with the Pop Top is slight scratching of the paint (clearcoat) from where the straps rub on the car from the wind.
Thanks again for your help and any comments from the forum are greatly appreciated.

Also, I read the post using the "Rhino Glue" repair and that sounds promising, and I am interested in any updates on that...but the history of this repair still has the most credibility. Thanks

 

BRappaport,

After putting off the repair while I had too much to do and then some more time dreading it, I finally followed Tighed1's method as closely as I could discern. I did one side yesterday, and the second today.

I am in Mississippi, and temps and humidity are enough to make your skin come loose.

Both sides and all corners on mine were loose; the top and bottom are intact (but will fail, I'm sure).

I released the latch and pushed the top up to remove tension, and spread a towel underneath the glass. I used a new box cutter-type razor blade to shave the old glue from the glass and tease as much glue as possible from a previous repair from the cloth.

I used PVC cleaner (because I had it on hand) to clean the areas well, and used a wood paddle to spread the glue. A popsicle stick would be great.

In one corner the fold in the material had separated, and I worked the glue into it as well as I could before putting glue onto the glass.

My wife then pushed some stiff pillow foam wrapped in wax paper into the corner to hold the window up. I then relatched the top to tension it.

I used a short piece of dowel to roll the excess glue out and try to get a smooth finish. That worked very well.

Tighed1 mentioned to WAIT 24 HRS - I did. He also said to resist the temptation to clean up any stray material until it dries. Hard, but I did.

Cleanup was very easy, and the wax paper helped. I did smear some glue on the inside of the glass. Fortunately, mine has a tinting film, and I can remove it to easily remove the mess.

I did the second side this morning, and look forward to a ride to church with the top up and the AC on tomorrow night.

Follow the instructions he provided, lay your materials out so you don't have to go looking for something while your hands are covered in glue, and be sure you have a helper on the inside.

Good luck!

Michael
05 Limited Roadster

 

Michael M,

Thanks for the reply and your comments on fixing the rear window.
Please keep us all posted on the progress and success of the fix.

I have not done mine yet, but my situation is very similar to yours.
The glass and fabric on mine is seperating the same as yours, sides and corners delaminated but the top and bottom edge still intact.

You mentioned that you used PVC Cleaner...did you use that after you razor bladed the glass? Also, did you use the PVC Cleaner to clean the fabric also?

Also, did you spread the 3M Window Weld adhesive on the glass only, or did you also put it on the fabric as well?

I believe the success of the fix working and holding is in the details of the preparation done to the glass and fabric. Since the delamination and seperation seems to be between the adhesive and the fabric, I was wondering whether you worked the adhesive into the fabric before pressing the two surfaces together.?

Looking forward to your comments.

BTW, did you try lifting up any of the fabric that was still secure to see how well stuck down it was?

Regards,...Ben

 

Ben,

I was away from the computer for a couple of days, so am slow to answer. First, Cathy and I took the Crossfire to see our daughter in Searcy, about 200 miles away. Since the repair I made, it's been basically 100 degrees and 100 percent humidity here. Part of the drive is on two lane where the big trucks really cause the back window to move, and where I noticed the failure of both sides of the window back in March and April.

This time, short but rough conditions, and it is still completely intact.

I'll try to answer specifically what you asked. Not sure about quoting so I've pasted your questions and then my answer after.

You mentioned that you used PVC Cleaner...did you use that after you razor bladed the glass? Also, did you use the PVC Cleaner to clean the fabric also?

I used the PVC cleaner on the clean glass (only) to remove any wax/oil that might cause the glue to fail. I was careful not to get it on the cloth, though I don't know if it would affect the cloth top.

Also, did you spread the 3M Window Weld adhesive on the glass only, or did you also put it on the fabric as well?

Sort of answering the next question as well - I put the Window Weld only on the glass, and used a wood paddle to spread it. However, in the lower left corner, the folded cloth had separated from itself, so I worked some of the glue between the fold as well as I could.

I believe the success of the fix working and holding is in the details of the preparation done to the glass and fabric. Absolutely! Since the delamination and seperation seems to be between the adhesive and the fabric, I was wondering whether you worked the adhesive into the fabric before pressing the two surfaces together.?

No, only onto the glass.

I am really happy with the result! I used a wood dowel, about six inches long and about one inch diameter as a rolling pin. You'll notice that where the factory glue is still good, there is a clear demarcation of the glued area, so there is a neat band apparent in the cloth, but that is absent where it's separated. The dowel helped reform that band, so it is much like the factory appearance. The dowel helped me get a more uniform thickness, and helped squeeze most of the excess glue out onto the glass. It was hard to resist, but I left it there about 24 hours. Cleanup really was easy. I used a blade to cut perpendicular to the glass, adjacent to the cloth. Then most of the excess glue just pulled away from the glass.

You'd have to know the repair was made to find it. Cleanup was easy. I feel silly to have waited so long to make the fix.

Hope this helps. Will answer anything I can.

Michael

 

i used tighed1's remedy except i used the 3m primer. my window was completely out so i cleaned the window with acetone to remove all glue then applied the primer to the glass, using painters tape to make a clean line i applied the primer with a Q tip then allowed it to dry about 30 min. i also used a dremmel tool with the barrel sander on low speed to rough up the area on the canvas then cleaned it with acetone,not too much just enough to remove the dust and loose glue. then i put primer on the canvas and allowed it to dry. i then applied a bead of the 3m window weld on the glass and smoothed it down with a knife the width of the black on the window. then i raised the back of the top where the window goes and put 2 pillows on the shelf then carefully slide the window in from inside ( good to have help right here) and position into window opening and press around edges then push pillows to window to keep pressure on glass. its been 6 weeks since i did this and we"ve had 95+ degree days here and the window shows no signs of letting go , even put the top down about 6 times already thanks tighed1 for your how to

 

Im going to chime in if i may about what i was told by a reputable upholsterer in my area(pennsylvania),apparently the life span of our tops is 5 to 7 years..which chrysler was fully aware of when they made this car..also why it isnt covered under warrenty.I have also found my window separating at the lower left corner and when i took it to said upholsterer he explained that these windows are electro welded to the material and adheasives such as the window weld would eventually fail also due to the different expansion and contraction rates of the glass and canvas.although reading that one said repair has already lasted over a year gives me new hope to attempt to fix this problem on my own....chrysler dealer wants$1500 for a new old stock roof wich is fine but i cant justify the $972 they want to install it!

 

Your note reminded me to provide some update here. I repaired both sides of my window, one side at a time, with 24 hours set time for the 3M window weld. I have only about a month and 900 miles, but all that was at about 100 degrees and equivalent humidity. It has held perfectly. Now I will go ahead and finished pulling the lower margin apart and do it.

I could not be more pleased with the simplicity of this fix, and we have reason to hope it will last longer than the OEM method.

The 3M product appears to be for windshield applications, and those don't fail for decades. I expect the cloth will be tattered before the adhesive fails, if I've prepped and applied it correctly.

Michael

 

Your upholsterer is probably right, but if your top is still in good condition $50 is a lot better than $1500. At least until it's time for a new top. So far our window is still looking good, we have raised and lowered it many more times with no sign of letting loose. So far I'm pretty satisfied and hope that it will stay until we need to get a new top.

 

just to let ya"ll know about the fix i did on my window almost 2 years ago for those who may not be covered under the warranty. the car is garage kept at night but is in the elements 5 days a week at work this top has been raised and lowered many times and the window has not even showed the slightest sign of letting loose. on another note the canvas still looks as good as the day we bought the car and has never had any kind of top treatment applied just washed and put in the garage to dry is all maybe i just lucked out i dont know but maybe this will be useful to some. still lovin it