Rear camber restored with this mod. This job is very easy and very economical. First set parking brake. Chuck a front tire. Raise one side of rear. Remove tire. Locate camber arm on top of suspension. It looks like a 9 inch bar slightly curved. It’s fastened to the car with two bolts. The nuts on both ends are 18 mm and the bolt head on the inside is 19 mm. The one on the outside is a torx . Remove the factory bar. Assemble the adjustable camber arm and screw it all the way in on both ends. Lubricate the threads and polyurethane with some marine grease. On the inside end, use a washer to fill in the space inside the receiving housing. Tighten and put the tire back on and your are done. Do the same on the other side.
Note: a ratcheting 18mm combination wrench saves a lot of time. And you can get by without the torx by using a pair of vice grips on the head it will take longer to unscrew that way though.
I got these parts from speedway at 340 victory lane Lincoln, NE 68528
speedwaymotors.com

Qty part number description price ea total
2 910-08001STR Forged Steel 4-bar end RH 12.99 25.98
2 910-08002 Forged Steel 4-bar end LH 14.99 29.98
2 910-34158-9 Alum Tube for 5/8” heims 8.99 17.98
2 175-0446 Jam Nut 5/8” LH raw .99 1.98
2 175-0246 Jam Nut 5/8” RH raw .99 1.98

 

Did the ends look like this?:



I got the same list from an MB forum. But, I didn't trust the store-bought rods. Made my own.

Good post and it may help some folks save some $$'s

 

What do these cost, and why is it important? I would think just for the adjustability?

 

lildaddym,

i listed the cost in the original post. without it the tires wear out very fast. alignment is impossible.

 

maxcichon,

yes they looked exactly like your photo. except the rod is round as opposed to hex.

 

How long should the Aluminum Tie Rod Sleeve be?

 

Probably should have an alignment done after installation, yes?

 

Yep, and they should have no problem doing it.

 

If my memory serves me correctly, 8.75"

 

the part number has a 9 in it so i'd say 9 inches is how long it should be and yes by all means you should got directly to the front end shop after this work is completed..... unless you have a four wheel alingment machine.

 

Thanks, Im going to write this on my xfire to do list.

 

Forum member MikeR makes adjustable rear camber arms. I have them on the roadster and am 100% satisfied.

 

Not sure of the exact length of the rod itself, but when assembled, ends should measure center to center at 12". Factory length is 11.75" center to center. 12" center to center should get you real close until you get an alignment.

James

 

Thanks, I wish that website gave dimmensions for the ends. I think I will just go with 11" maybe 10.5" if they got it.

 

squeaking a lot. update i had to take it apart and lube it better the most important thing i found is that i had not lubed inside the mandrel. or another way would have been to lube inside and outside of the polyurethane bushings. i used marine grease and so far no more squeaking.

 

Reviving for update rvanders37.... How is it working out? what size tie rod sleeve did you end up with?

 

Hope I don't sound too stupid but this works for stock height correct? I plan on lowering later but for right now I'm keeping it stock. I just want to try and make the rear camber more neutral for better traction and possibly more even tread wear.

 

Yes. The minimum length should be ~ 11.5".

 

The parts list above gives you everything you need with the correct lengths. If you use a different length swedge tube it won't work, must use the 9" tubes and the listed heim joints. They all work with the stock hardware too, no need to add or remove anything. I didn't even put in the added washer and everything works fine. If you tighten down on the back both it brings the flanges together a bit anyway.
This set-up will hit your swaybar if your car is lowered though. So be aware of that.