I'ts just two wires that attach to/plug into the sensor.

Cut them and splice them together. DONE.

Mine was modded by the previous owner as well - just gotta be mindful of having the divider up so that NOTHING is in the way of the top as it comes down!

 

Thanks pizzaguy, I will take a look when I get a chance to get in there and look for the wires.

 

How do you do this if the trunk is jammed

 

You must first unjamm the trunk.

One thing to try, assuming the jam is the electric lock - is to "work" the lock, do this:

1) Get in, start car
2) Turn the T-handle and put the top up and away from frame.
3) Hit the button to LOWER the top (this will make the electric lock go to the lock position - you should hear a FAINT but discernable "whimm-pp" sound as the lock moves.
4) Hit the button to RAISE the top (This should make the electric lock go back to the unlock position - the sound of the lock going back to unlock is fainter than the other sound - I often cant even hear it)
5) Lock the D handle back in position.
6) Try the trunk
7) Repeat a time or two if needed.

I got your PM, the next move is to remove the DRIVERS SIDE license plate light and use a metal coathanger, formed with a small j-hook at one end, to grab the emegency release - PULL and the trunk will pop open. I BELIEVE THE EMERGENCY RELEASE WILL OVERCOME BOTH THE PNEUMATIC AND ELECTRIC LOCKS, per federal law.

 

Again, got your PM, how long have you had the car? YOu say you don't think the cable is there - if you did not remove it, and it is obvious that you did not - I'm trying to ascertain the likelyhood that someone DID remove it.

I do know that it took me maybe four attempts to snag it the last time I played around with it, and I'm an "old hat" at this.

 

I bought mine brand new. Going to try both options you gave me now.

 

Dear Sir,
Your video is fantastic and very helpful.
Would you mind if I shared the link with fellow Crossfire club members in the UK
Many thanks
Mike Darby
Chairman of UK Crossfires Club

 

great video, good to know theres a way around a non functioning roof, i recently got my roadster and found the chrysler tool in the boot, another possible tool maybe the mercedes roof tool for the slk, it is thin, with a 10mm a/f at one end, and has a 6mm hex key welded on at the other,

 

Pizza guy. Many thanks. Now I can get it open to fix it. 10mm end wrench worked perfectly for the tool.

 

Found the combination top tool ( 10 mm and 6 mm hex ) at :
NEW Mercedes 2088990080 Genuine Key
since ECSTuning states they no longer carry it. ( where I got mine from )
The price is $22.95 + about $7 shipping, haven't ordered from them so no guarantees.

 

Deleted. Did nto do my homework!

 

I hate that I just now saw this.

 

I am one of those folks who bought a Crossfire with a non-automatically working top (2005 model). Thanks to Pizzaguy’s instructions, it’s been easy to manually raise and lower the top as I go through different tests to figure out what’s wrong. Someday I’ll find the switch or cylinder that isn’t working.

Today, I started the Pizzaguy procedure to lower the top manually and when I turned the hex key, I heard a click but the bow latch would not release the bow for me to manually lift it. It released it partially. But that’s all. By turning the hex key the other direction, the bow latch mechanism would tighten the bow back down.

But after trying unsuccessfully to fully unlatch the bow, I finally unscrewed the bow latch (four 30mm torx screws) and lowered the bow latch mechanism. I tried “exercising” it but it was not releasing the catch. All of the parts were pretty dry so I used some Phil’s waterproof bicycle grease that I had handy. After that, the latch would click and “re-****” properly. I screwed it back into place, turned the hex key, unlatched the bow, dropped the top, and got in a January ride with the top down in Austin, Texas. Sure is easier to do things when there are so many folks who share how the Crossfire works.

 

And a little," Phil's waterproof bicycle grease"...

 

I spray all those parts on mine yearly with white lithium

 

...Hey PizzaGuy, thanks for the awesome video, if, when re-assembling the hydraulic cylinder to the lifting system, we think we mixed up the two position sensor connectors ...drivers side main lifting. Is there a way to tell if this is our problem? Thanks in advance

 

UPDATE-- Yes, we made a mistake reconnecting the sensor to the proper connector of the driver side main lifting cylinder...switched the pigtails and the top works correctly now.
3Gair I believe has this noted under one of his detailed photographs. It should be added to the "sticky" took a while to find. Thanks to all the contributors on the convertible top issues....Peace

 

THANKS !!!! Good to know !

 

At the fall dragon, I had this problem with my top not working. I borrowed a tool from a very nice guy, and got it down. As we gathered for pictures I asked around for help in finding why it did not work and how to get it working again. Everyone seemed to think we had an expert on tops and I should get him to help. I went to this self proclaimed expert and ask if he could help. He said "sure I can" and walked away and began talking to other people. I didn't want to appear rude and so I waited. I waited while he ignored me, (looking over once in a while to see if I was still there)
Finally, my group left. Later I went to a hardware store and bought a hex wrench, and got the top up.
I learned something about our group. There are a lot of people who will help and there are some who need their ego massaged and just want you to think they will help. My top is working fine now without the promised help.

 

I have problem with my top.
Today I try open top but this was not possible, rear window go up only 10cm and stop with alarm bip bip.
I try open it manualy but I made mistake. I play too much with top and put rear window down. Now trunk is blocked, windows are open and can not close, rear wing is open.
What I can do?
Is possible open trunk manualy? Pneumatic line is ok. I think is electricaly blocked. Rear handle is hard.