I finished replacing the hydraulic cylinders on my top. Had great help/advice from Klauss at Top Hydraulic and gr3 here.
My problem now is that the trunk does not open with the top down, and the top does not always operate on demand.
I have double and triple checked all the connections that I messed with. The switch on the divider is taped closed and I put the divider in correct position.
Any advise greatly appreciate.
Thanks

 

If you haven't already done so, remove the electric trunk lock actuator. Go to post 122 in this thread https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-jammed-3.html

 

Thanks for all the advice and help.
Have removed the electric trunk lock actuator and have taped the divider switch closed.
Still having problems.
Light on consul flashes..
Pushing switch to open or close does nothing.
If I did not have bad luck with this I would have no luck.
Can not figure out the problem.
Any more ideas???
All greatly appreciate.
Thanks

 

Wait, you said the trunk would not open, did you mean the deck lid that opens for the top to go in and out?

 

Hi Pizzaguy
Pushing the switch does nothing.
The tonneau cover does not open, the windows do not go down.
Klauss has been a great help putting up with me.
He suggested checking the sensors on the left main lift cylinder that I replaced.
Will not be able to do that til Monday.
Thanks for your input ,will keep all up on my problem

 

Does KLaus know that? No one here knows more than he does - but when you release the D handle and push the top away from the windshield frame, as the hook on the passenger side lets go of the frame, a microswitch in that right hand side opening is relaxed, the switch closes, and grounds a line running to the controller - telling it that the hooks are released.

The pump WILL NOT RUN unless that wire is grounded, for good reason - that is the indicatoin to the controller that it is safe to run the pump, otherwise, the pump could come on while the top is still looked to the frame, which would be bad for the pump and top.

Anyway, as the controller sees that wire go to ground, it sends a message over the CAN but to the BCM to tell it to lower the windows. You just indicated that the windows do not go down, that means the BCM is not getting 'word' that the top is unlocked. If the top controller is not sending that message, then the top controller probably does not KNOW the top is unlatched from the windshield frame - and there is your problem.

Make sure Klaus knows what you told us.

 

And THATS why PG is a great troubleshooter!

 

all on this forum are great.
thanks to all for the help.
will be checking it out tomorrow.
will post what I find.

 

Pizzaguy
Eyes must be getting old like the rest of this bod.
Can not find that switch you are describing.
HELP!!!!
Thanks again, having lots of fun with this.

 

Release the top from the windshield frame. Stick your finger in the slot the passenger side hook goes in towards the center of the car -you will feel the leaf of the switch.

You can watch the action of the switch by checking the voltage on pin 16 of C1 of the top control module in the driver's side fender cavity at the back of the car. Remove all of the trunk's interior trim to get to it.

 

Hello
Just an update....no solution.
klauss has been a great help as has Pizzaguy.
This problem has me banging my head against the wall.
Any new ideas greatly appreciated.
Will be back at it this weekend.
thanks to all

 

Just a thought (they randomly occur)...when you say you removed the electric trunk lock
actuator...you removed only the black hickey on the end of the white plunger, correct?
Removing the whole thing or even leaving it disconnected would cause the car to assume
that no signal from the solenoid is bad news and shut everything down.

As I said...just a thought. Wish I had the ability to help you more.

 

Mackel
Thanks for your previous input.
Yes I just removed the "black hickey" on the end.
I then screwed it back into place.
I seemed to have picked up a little german devil out for trouble.

 

That reminds me of a sign I saw on a computer keyboard years ago.

Das machinen ist nicht fur der fingerpokin und der mittengrabben.
Keepen der hands in der pokket und vatch de blinkkenlites.

Your machine is not responding well to the fingerpokin

 

I'm still trying to figure out what 'irrated' means, it really is irritating me.

 

Update
Went to Chrysler stealership, Mercedes refused to help.
$185.00/hour, 2 hours
Tech believes it to be the power control mod located net to the master pump.
Email the high authority, Klauss, and waiting his reply.
Any other ideas??
Where to find this part??
Thanks

 

$185 an hour? Ummmm ok. Sounds like they don't really know are and making an assumption. With a damn voltmeter you can measure to see of releasing the top with the "D" handle causes a ground to appear at the TCM. If a ground appears, you know the switch is ok.

THEN, you grab your Star Diagnostic tool and check to see if the TCM is indicating that the top is open, if not the TCM is bad.

Has anyone (Sorry, have not reviewed the thread) checked in the cavity to see if it's web back there? In any event, I wish one of these 'bad top problems' would occur close to me so I could look at it......................

 

Pizzaguy
Tech did that.
Although I was charged for two hours, he actually had three or more.
He also allowed me to assist him.
Klauss agreed that tech idea could b right.
Pick up top power mod tomorrow, $175.00
Come on out and I will but the brew, you get it all as I no longer partake.
Name your poision.

 

$175 for the part is probably not bad.....

 

Using the higher knowledge of Klauss, I purchased the unit.
Klauss has been a great source of advice.
I have abused him many times.
thanks to Klauss.
Will keep this post going til problem solved.
Thanks also to all for input