Rebuilding the Roadster hydraulics
Studying the "sticky" on the hydraulic top , I referenced the service manual, section 23 and it seemed to be all about electrical testing. I am looking for step -by-step instructions on the removal of each cylinder beginning with the left and right main lifting cylinders. Did I overlook a specific section of the service manual concerning the cylinder removal? The lower cylinder pin removal to be specific. Thanks in advance.
We trimmed back the sound deadening material for clearance to try to drive the lower pin of the Right side main lifting cylinder out but there was still not enough clearance...Whats the trick?
I thought of calling for Klaus, I did call them, am not sure who I spoke with, but, they just get the cylinders in and rebuild them and ship them out. I asked that. question on the removal procedure ...
My stealership service manager printed out diagrams on separate sheets of the different cylinders. I have not had time to study them closely yet. Their Xfire tech showed me one he was working on at his toolbox which was one of the locking cylinders that needed a new microswitch which he said he could no longer get....his customers Crossfire had been there 2 weeks....yikes! He doesn't use used parts.
My stealership service manager printed out diagrams on separate sheets of the different cylinders. I have not had time to study them closely yet. Their Xfire tech showed me one he was working on at his toolbox which was one of the locking cylinders that needed a new microswitch which he said he could no longer get....his customers Crossfire had been there 2 weeks....yikes! He doesn't use used parts.
Two rebuilt cylinders are now installed, however, there are issues.
The battery went low, during the removal and replacement procedure and we noticed the wing up so we charged the battery, cranked her up and put the wing down.
Trunk wouldn't unlock indicating residual hydraulic pressure which we relieved with the 5 second button hold down procedure.
We manually lowered the top with the divider in place and locked with the tool. Reconnected the battery at this point and tried to raise the top with the button. The hydraulic pump motor was running, but the unlocking cylinder never "popped open" resulting in a flashing light at the up/down switch
We think that maybe the sensor wires at the driver side lifting cylinder might have gotten switched around during re-assembly. Any thoughts?
The battery went low, during the removal and replacement procedure and we noticed the wing up so we charged the battery, cranked her up and put the wing down.
Trunk wouldn't unlock indicating residual hydraulic pressure which we relieved with the 5 second button hold down procedure.
We manually lowered the top with the divider in place and locked with the tool. Reconnected the battery at this point and tried to raise the top with the button. The hydraulic pump motor was running, but the unlocking cylinder never "popped open" resulting in a flashing light at the up/down switch
We think that maybe the sensor wires at the driver side lifting cylinder might have gotten switched around during re-assembly. Any thoughts?
AND, loosened the bracket that the cylinder mounts to, then the pin comes out.
We DID have the pigtails reversed. Swapping those corrected the top malfunction. Works great now.
Re-installation of those pins was tricky and we made a tool out of a shortened allen wrench to put in from behind to line up the holes as the pin was inserted from the opposite side.
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