When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I accidentally broke the sliding piece on my top open switch while changing out the convertible top. Don't ask, it was pure stupid
I can't find a replacement. Someone suggested A193 820 21 10 but that too is not to be found. Also, I could not find it in the XFIRE/MB cross reference document I have.
I've got some ideas for work arounds but thought I'd see if you had any suggestions first.
GREAT WRITE UP BTW and thanks in advance. Broken piece and internal spring You'll notice one of the channels this trigger rides in is also damaged by the way it's cockeyed.
Last edited by pizzaguy; May 24, 2021 at 10:23 PM.
An update to replacement of Convertible Top Open Switch:
As you may recall, I stupidly cracked the plunger on my Top Open Switch while installing a new BAS top on my wife's XFire.
My repair is still holding but I'm preparing for the day the super glue decides the Texas heat wins!
My original plan was to use a tilt switch and while I still believe that will work, I decided to switch plans to a reed switch like an alarm system door contact. MOST alarm systems use a switch which is closed when in proximity to the magnet/contact. Thanks to the great write up linked below, you'll note in this application we want the circuit OPEN when in proximity to the magnet.
I've done a fair amount of alarm system repairs on my houses over the years and know first hand that you can't always believe what is written in the descriptions of these contacts so buyer beware. I returned a couple in this process Then I found this which has both NO and NC leads. It's perfect for testing. BEWARE, there is one that looks just like this for $4.49 that claims to be what is needed but is not. I'm still awaiting a reply as to whether I got the wrong switch or their description is wrong.
I did some test fitting and I believe if you were to drill out the rivets and remove the original switch you could use the front hole with a screw or rivet in the top front hole of the reed switch and the magnet could be secured with automotive double sided tape on the lower bar in front of the ledge that currently pushes the plunger up to activate the microswitch, opening the circuit when the top is locked down. Loosely placing the pieces in these positions and using a multimeter, it appears that the gap to the magnet works and there is no obvious conflict with the movement or action of the mechanism.
DISCLAIMER - Since my original switch is still functional, I only tested the fit and proximity of the magnet and function with a multi-meter. I did not actually wire this into the circuit but I see no reason why it wouldn't serve as a replacement.
The picture shows the reed switch in front of the current switch. I did this to test the depth.
Should I have to actually wire this in I'll report back again.
A huge thank you to you for you untold amount of work and research and Dennis Zuravic for
sending it and continually providing advice that helps assure me that as a NON-Mechanical guy I may never regret buying my Crossfire.
I will still need to search for help where the first moment of putting the top down after turning the “D” thing, the first movement starts and will get stuck. I push the bottom to close for a second, then push to open and it will, so far, do what seems to be an “unlatch” with a bit of strain as if the latch doesn’t want to release.
Almost as if a the company type latch is too tight.
Buried in the trunk latch mechanism is the sensor that gives indication that the trunk lid is fully closed. I've never found this sensor in the wiring diagrams nor in the pictorial diagrams, but Wayne Mullins in Wilmington found his top would simply not move one day, and he proved the issue was this sensor. I also had an issue once where I had the trunk somehow locked, but it was not fully closed. By pressing down hard on the lid, with a helper pressing the button, we got my top to move!
My friend had this exact problem happen and we simply(after checking all the other sensors) turning the two trunk adjustment plastic ***** at each in about a quarter turn back into the car and all is well now and has been for awhile.
There is a guy on Facebook that is trying to "print" a replacement bracket. Not sure where he's getting the switch, but that is just a generic microswitch, not impossible to find.
If I can turn up his post I will link to it here.
Did anyone find this guy just found mine shattered and in pieces in my trunk. Horrible glue job holding in like some kind of magic.
I got some aluminum stock and some jb weld and doing a fair job of rebuilding it. Making an effort to rebuild it. Trying to show what I have done. You can see the glue repairs here. Condition when I pulled it out.
Last edited by Doc78; May 26, 2021 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: Spelling mistake
My friend had this exact problem happen and we simply(after checking all the other sensors) turning the two trunk adjustment plastic ***** at each in about a quarter turn back into the car and all is well now and has been for awhile.
Ya gotta give us a picture of that - I'm clueless, I don't know what ***** you are talking about, didn't know about this.
PLEASE post more on this!
As to your divider switch fix, I gotta tell ya, I just bypassed mine. I can't see bypassing the "top open" switch, that is dangerous. But the divider switch, I just bypassed.
And again, when I find it, I'll post that guy's printed part!
This is the height adjustment bumper(left side) I was talking about. My buddies was out to far and the sensor in the latch was not sending the signal that the trunk was closed. This is the height adjustment bumper(right side) I was talking about. My buddies was out to far and the sensor in the latch was not sending the signal that the trunk was closed.
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of roadster tops. I have a unique problem of having bought an’05 srt roadster two weeks ago from a dealer who said he would fix the top before shipping the car. It’s been too long and he cannot find the micro switch. The part no. is 5142205AA and does anyone know where we can find it? After reading your thread though I’m wondering if the problem may be one of the issues you mention and am hoping for guidance on how to handle this.
pizza guy,
What scanner would your recommend for my 2005 crossfire. Will ill help me diagnose why my convertible le top won't function?
thanks,
MCPO
Sorry, Iv'e been dealing with some serious health issues and have not been very diligent about checking in here lately.
Unfortunately, To my knowledge, only a STAR diagnostic tool will read the top sensors. There is no conventional OBD device that will do it.
Such STAR emulators cost around $3000 and can be obtained, from time to time, on eBay.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Dec 22, 2021 at 08:54 PM.
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of roadster tops. I have a unique problem of having bought an’05 srt roadster two weeks ago from a dealer who said he would fix the top before shipping the car. It’s been too long and he cannot find the micro switch. The part no. is 5142205AA and does anyone know where we can find it? After reading your thread though I’m wondering if the problem may be one of the issues you mention and am hoping for guidance on how to handle this.
Most of the sensors/switches are no longer available, other than from wrecked cars. Can you tell us which sensor it is? I will attempt to dig up the ID from the part number, but honestly, I don't resort to part numbers with these cars very often.
ONE MORE THING: Most failures of the system to move the top are due to minor issues. If you would start a new thread in the Roadster section, we can discuss your specific issue - to start, we need a description of what the system is doing/not doing, etc.
These micro switches are off the shelf items, that number is the Chrysler number.
Maybe it has the makers name on it and if you are lucky you’ll find the makers part number on it.
If you have the makers name look through their catalog.
My top my 2005 Roadster is completely non functional. Starting with my first problem is that the windows do not go down when I release the top lever. Any suggestions whee to start??
PizzaGuy,
Your posts are the very best I have seen. You must be getting tired of all us Crossfire guy's questions. Here is one more for you.
My top is totally nonfunctional on my 2005 Roadster. Starting at point one, when I release the top lever and the windows DO NOT go down, can you suggest where I should start to address the problem?
MCPO
THat is a fundamental failure. THe first guess is that the switch in the windshield frame (which reports that you are turning the "D" handle) is not closing, which sends a ground to the Top module at connector C1 pin 16.
The top module then tells the Body Control module to lower the windows. If the fuse to the top module is blown (in 2005, fuse 5, 25 amp, underhood fuse box), the top module is dead and can't proceed - there you go.
If pin 16 is going to ground and the fuse is good (and this is probably the case, but check anyway), then the Security module may be the issue. Very often, the cause is the security module in the passenger rear wheel well, if it gets wet, the top module cant communicate with other modules and the top will be DONE. If there is any chance water has intruded, I'd tear the trim from the entire trunk and yank the connectors from the security module - are they corroded? They should look CLEAN and SHINY. If they are bad, you need a replacement security module and the last three feet or so of wiring harness. I've personally got two tops working only by changing the harness and module -but again, it will be OBVIOUS when you tear into it, if the connectors look fine, then it's something else.
Yes, you read that right - many inoperative tops are caused by the security module, not the top system itself. If ANY module has the CAN bus compromised, or if the security module can't tell the top module that the trunk lid is fully closed, the top won't move. The top only moves when it is verified safe to operate the top pump.
WIth windows not responding, you have a fundamental issue here and this should be easy to find - may not be easy to FIX but it should be easy to find.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Dec 25, 2021 at 11:12 AM.
Re: Convertible Top Sensors
Then I found this which has both NO and NC leads. It's perfect for testing. BEWARE, there is one that looks just like this for $4.49 that claims to be what is needed but is not. I'm still awaiting a reply as to whether I got the wrong switch or their description is wrong.
