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I spent a year and a half and $$$$. At dealers trying to determine why my top would not go up or down! By pure luck the owner of Top hydraulics, Klaus Witte, asked me to check the two travel sensors on the left main lift cylinder to see if they had inadvertently been switched around when someone replaced the cylinder.
sure enough, that was the problem! Now my top works perfectly! I find that Klaus and pizzaguy are the two best experts on the crossfire!
If you took it to Chrysler dealerships I am not surprised at the outcome and big $$$ spent! Glad you got it to work. Klaus is a standup guy but no matter what you do don't take your car to a Chrysler Stealership. Heck....I wouldn't even take it to a Mercedes Dealership....take it to an independent shop that specializes in European cars (or preferably Mercs).
If you took it to Chrysler dealerships I am not surprised at the outcome and big $$$ spent! Glad you got it to work. Klaus is a standup guy but no matter what you do don't take your car to a Chrysler Stealership. Heck....I wouldn't even take it to a Mercedes Dealership....take it to an independent shop that specializes in European cars (or preferably Mercs).
Totally agree about Chrysler Dealership! They know NOTHING about Crossfires!! I learned the hard way! Pizzaguy warned me!!!!!
Thanks for all the helpful information on the tops. I just got my first roadster. The top on mine appears to function properly however when I close the top it just beeps at me. It appears to close properly with no issues but when I put it in drive it starts beeping at me and I don't know what the issue would be or where to look as everything is latch properly. I stop and lower it and put it back up and it still beeps. No beeps lowering it or when it is lowered and only beeps when it is closed and the light flashes on the button as well. Not sure if this is related or not but after I put my top up and left it with it beeping the battery was dead the next day.
Thanks for all the helpful information on the tops. I just got my first roadster. The top on mine appears to function properly however when I close the top it just beeps at me. It appears to close properly with no issues but when I put it in drive it starts beeping at me and I don't know what the issue would be or where to look as everything is latch properly. I stop and lower it and put it back up and it still beeps. No beeps lowering it or when it is lowered and only beeps when it is closed and the light flashes on the button as well. Not sure if this is related or not but after I put my top up and left it with it beeping the battery was dead the next day.
I've never heard of the beeping going on so long it drained a battery.
In any event, the beeping you describe indicates that the PTCM (top controller) does not think the cycle of raising the top finished completely. One item: When putting the top up, DO NOT release the button too quickly, keep pressing for a count of "1,2" after the rear bow latches.
Other than that, I'd suspect a slugging rear bow latch sensor-switch or a bad trunk UNlock sensor (the trunk locks electrically when you start putting the top up or down, and releases the lock when the top is done moving.)
I mentioned "a loss of sync" above, when discussing the BCM's operation of the spoiler. But there is a much more important "loss of sync" that happens, and it happens a LOT.
Consider the complexities of the top system: the system of hydraulic cylinders, the sensors on those cylinders (which we have not even mentioned), combined with the switches/sensors we HAVE mentioned - along with the interactions with the BCM. All of this comprises a very complex system. In some cases, the PTCM can loose track of where in the process it is; in such cases, if the PTCM continues to command cylinders to travel without knowing for sure where things are, damage can be done to parts of the car.
This is why our tops so often will suddenly refuse to move. The PTCM has lost track of things and is 'afraid' to move ANYTHING. At this point, it sucks to be you or I. This is why it is VERY important to know how to put the top up and down manually. It is also important that we all have our 'top tool' in the glove box or console. If that tool is the original one that came with the car, we must also have a 6mm hex key wrench. With these tools and some knowledge, we can put the top up or down manually.
But what do we do about a loss of sync? And what do we do when the top starts moving, then DEAD stops and won't let us do anything? Let's answer these questions in reverse order.
Releasing Pressure and Moving the Top Manually
If the top stops dead, you must release pressure and then move it manually. The owner's manual tells you how to press the top button to make pressure release, but I have had problems making that technique work. I have my own trick - I pull the PTCM fuse. This works because the 'relaxed state' of all the relays is to open and let all pressure out, and fluid flows back to the tank.
The fuse in most Crossfires is fuse 5 in the underhood box. It will be labeled "Roof Control Unit" and will be a 25 amp fuse (52 amp if you are looking at it upside down!)
I have it circled in yellow below, and again, I THINK they left this in position 5 for the entire production run, I just don't know that for sure.
But Klaus at "TopHydraulics" produced a better one (I have not watched it all, but I know the guy and I'm sure he did better than I did): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOCoOi-1Eps
How Do We Get "SYNC" Back?
Once you put the top up or down manually, you may find the switch now works and things are fine. If not, you may need to "teach" the system where things are. I've had to do this a few times in the eleven years I've owned three roasters. The procedure that works for me is simple.
1) Start the engine.
2) If you have not released pressure (that is, if things refuse to move when you try to move the top parts), pull fuse 25 for a few seconds. THEN, be sure to put it back in before proceeding.
3) Manually raise or lower (depending on what position the top is currently in) completely, including locking the bow with the hex key (that both I and Klaus talk about).
4) Now, if you raised it, lower it completely. If you lowered it, raise it completely.
Once you are done, try the button. If it still won't work, with the engine running, do 3) and 4) maybe a total of two or three complete cycles. It is important to have the system "awake", that is why you have the engine running, so the PTCM is powered up and watching what you are doing. I've had at least four or five times in eleven years where the top won't work, or it stops mid-cycle - every time, this got me going. Others have reported similar results, including one guy that had paid a dealer to "diagnose" the system, he got the car back with the top not working still. This technique got it going.
I cannot lower my top manually because after I unlatch the front(windows stay up) it will not let me raise the bow enough to use the 10mm special tool to unlock the cover. Why will it not go up far enough? Will pulling the fuse release the bow so I can move it? Thank you, Scott Coryea
I cannot lower my top manually because after I unlatch the front(windows stay up) it will not let me raise the bow enough to use the 10mm special tool to unlock the cover. Why will it not go up far enough? Will pulling the fuse release the bow so I can move it? Thank you, Scott Coryea
I am unsure if you are understanding the process. You must release any pressure on the system (and if the pump never ran, then there is no pressure.)
You then unlatch the rear bow by opening the trunk and using the hex key wrench. Pulling the fuse releases all pressure but again, if the pump did not run, pressure does not exist anyway.
Here is the process, I try to do thru it slowly so it is understandable:
3 No trunk lock The electric lock has been confirmed to work by checking the power supply and locking/unlocking.
４There is no electrical signal in the trunk
5 No blown fuses
6 I press the switch and the buzzer goes off but it doesn't work
See my video and do this;
Put top down manually.
Try putting top UP with the button.
If top goes UP but not DOWN, the divider switch or "top open" switch over the passenger's head is the problem.
If top will not go UP or DOWN, there is more work to do to determine the problem.
Power window automatically moves down from top to bottom
It just beeps but doesn't work
At that time, the trunk lock was not engaged, so the trunk could be opened
The electronic trunk lock has been removed and confirmed to work with a separate power source.
Vacuum unit remote control lock unlock operation normal
The room light doesn't go off even when locked, but goes off in manual mode
I checked the left and right fuses in the engine room and they were not blown.
It opens manually, but when it is open a beep sounds for a while.
When there is pump pressure, if you pull out the fuse, the pressure will disappear
Open button, open the latch, the glass will automatically lower, but the red light will still be on
This is a translation from Japanese, so please excuse any typos.
1 Door lock opens/closes with remote control Yes Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Production
No Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Pepper
2 Room light automatically turns off when door is closed Yes Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Production
No Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Pepper
If yes, if the open function does not work, there is a problem in another area.
If No Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Pepper exchange
Even if the room light does not automatically turn off, the spoiler will still work at 80 km/h and the automatic lock will also work properly. Central Door Locking Vacuum Pump Broken
Looking for some input to troubleshooting I am performing on 2007 Crossfire Roadster who’s top will not go down or up.
I have reviewed the information in this post, found it helpful but am still having issues, and would appreciate any input y’all have.
When I turn the D handle to release the roof from the windshield the windows do not go down the 2 inches
I started there checking the Latch Retainer Switch, getting satisfactory continuity and voltage at pin 16 of C1 on the PTCM (checked at the connector itself), so this switch is SAT.
Next was to check the Divider Switch connection, reading the info and determining this switch is in series with the Roof Open Switch, I checked both, getting continuity and correct voltages at pin 7 of C1 on the PTCM (checked at connector)
Next thought things may have been out of sync, performing the operation noted in this post, I was not successful, the hydraulics would look the top in whatever position I was coming out of. Started the car, pulled the fuse, waited 30 sec, put the fuse back in, performed manual open of the top, tried the switch in the car, nothing (solid red light), so then tried to manually put the top back up and got as far a moving the bow then the hydraulics locked the system and we would need to pull the fuse to release pressure before being able to complete the process, once we were able to get the top back up the button in the car would flash red.
Other Information
Fluid in hydraulic reservoir is at MIN level
Checked the security module, all connections are shiny and show no signs of corrosion or water intrusion
I am thinking of getting a new PTCM and trying that, maybe the sensor information isn’t getting to the right place?
Any input would be helpful
Last edited by B1kunkel; Dec 26, 2025 at 07:19 PM.
When I turn the D handle to release the roof from the windshield the windows do not go down the 2 inches
I started there checking the Latch Retainer Switch, getting satisfactory continuity and voltage at pin 16 of C1 on the PTCM (checked at the connector itself), so this switch is SAT.
Any input would be helpful
Im not on here much these days, I work way too many hours, but I do have input for you. You are doing pretty good with your attempts at troubleshooting, but I think I see a mistake you are making.
Here is how I check that pin:
Start engine.
With top "closed" or "up", measure the voltage at that pin, it MUST be zero.
Now, turn the D handle and push the top away from the windshield frame.
You should now measure bias voltage, I can't remember what it is, I think it's 5 volts but it may be higher. This rise in voltage causes the PTCM to tell the BCM to lower the windows, but not two inches, it lowers them all the way down.
If you have no voltage, CUT THE WIRE about two inches from the connector. Does the pin now have voltage? If so, your issue is the switch or the wire is shorted to ground somewhere. If you have NO voltage with the wire cut, the PTCM is not generating bias voltage. This can be a bad PTCM, but PTCMs rarely fail. Verify good supply voltage at C1-pin 10, if you have good voltage here, I might concede the PTCM is bad.
Here is the thing:
1) If the windows do not go down when you turn that handle, you can FORGET: fluid levels,sync, the divider switch, the top open switch, the phase of the moon, and all the (bad) advice people are giving you. If the windows do not go down, the issue involves the PTCM, it's power, the wiring to that ONE switch and nothing else. Turning the D handle, with the engine running, MUST result in the windows going down.
2) If you are working on this without the engine running, you are wasting your time.
So here is sad commentary from a former Crossfire owner ... I sold my beloved Crossfire before Christmas as part of grand compromise with my wife on auto-related issues. And, to be fair, as a consolation prize a got a delightfully sporty BMW M240i in a similar bright red color. Throughout the 4 years I had the crossfire, though, I puzzled over the convertible top control and its associated components. So, when I came across this thread shortly after Christmas I was compelled to read the first 10 Pizzaguy posts straight through. It's great Crossfire diagnostic and educational prose. In fact, I'm sure if there were Pulitzers for such things, that series would be a winner! So thanks Pizzaguy - even if you have turned me into a Crossfire diagnostic prose addict (as you can tell my my continued monitoring of this thread)!
So here is sad commentary from a former Crossfire owner ... I sold my beloved Crossfire before Christmas as part of grand compromise with my wife on auto-related issues. And, to be fair, as a consolation prize a got a delightfully sporty BMW M240i in a similar bright red color. Throughout the 4 years I had the crossfire, though, I puzzled over the convertible top control and its associated components. So, when I came across this thread shortly after Christmas I was compelled to read the first 10 Pizzaguy posts straight through. It's great Crossfire diagnostic and educational prose. In fact, I'm sure if there were Pulitzers for such things, that series would be a winner! So thanks Pizzaguy - even if you have turned me into a Crossfire diagnostic prose addict (as you can tell my my continued monitoring of this thread)!
Thanks for that, this thread is like my video series on LMR/RF/Radio, I produced it to empower people so they don't need my direct answers and so I can help more people. It is frustrating that we live in a time that "AI" and social media has so many people wanting and expecting short, easy answers to highly complex and technical questions. You cannot fix your car with that kind of expectation.
Which is why:
Part of what I do here and on YouTube* is to show people that a lot of this stuff CAN BE very understandable by most or all of us
Thanks for the YouTube channel reference. I started my career with an EE degree from the University of Michigan and my field theory class (including antenna design) was the toughest one in my whole curriculum. Your DCL 430 and 431 are great introductions to the topic. Wish I had them back then!
Re: Convertible Top Sensors
Re: Convertible Top Sensors
