You may be able to fix cable flap problem on Crossfire Convertible without dismantling flap assembly.

If cable pulled out out from hinge side from the old lead eyelet, it can be removed. There is a small snap ring on pin inboard that once held the 1/16" cable to the old lead fitting; be careful the snap ring, can fly off, to be never be seen again. Carefully pull the rod holding the bad lead flitting in place. Replace it with new stainless steel swage eye (1/16" or 1.6mm). After pin inserted with new swage eye, reattach snap ring. Let it hang till, we can insert old cable into new swage fitting Since new fitting is much longer, we can use old cable and cut cable to exact needed length.

If you are lucky the 1/16"cable is still hanging out, Do tape end to keep it from feeding backward, or you will have to push it from the other end, and that plastic piece, at hinge, is hard to get cable through it.

Now there is a precise cable length that must stick out, cut with cable cutters for smooth end. After cutting cable insert it in swage fitting. You can use other side as guide. Since these fittings are about 1 inch longer, many will be able to repair without flap disassembly. If you insert old cable and it is loose, you will be able to use it for repair.

First Option probably better but a shorter length is ;
Hayn S0735-001 Swage Marine Eye 1/16" Length 1 5/8"

Second Longer one :
Loos 668-2x Stainless Steel Eye End 1/16" . Length 1 3/4"

If cable can be pulled out that hinge side end, swage marine eye for 1/16" can probably be used to repair.

How to secure cable to swage fitting, there are several options once precise length is determined. You can swage it with hand held swage tool, crimp it (But it is stainless steel) Mighty might vice grips with Gorrila glue , ect.

Since I have both sides off, I will use one side for dimensions, while cutting other side to match.

Will add info as project proceeds.

Able to reattach rear window without disassembly and it seems to be holding.

These self repairs has saved me a bundle of Franklin's.

 

Used the thicker Swage Marine Eye (1/16") fitting S0735-0001

Secure flap cover assembly closed while doing this, to free up cable at hinge, while being being fixed..

Sounds crazy, but I used two needle covers with closed ends cut off. One OD fits inside the ID of the other. Since I did not have swage press handy. Run the one with the smaller ID (slightly bigger than cable ) into cable first, then slide out of way for later.

Put glue on cable end, not too heavy coating, insert cable into swage fitting. Let it set for awhile. Put a glue coating on outer swage fitting and slide needle cover over fitting, leave enough that other needle cover can slide over glued cable and into other bigger needle cover, this one should slide butting the end of the swage fitting. Let it set awhile, as different surfaces bond .

I used Gorilla Glue on cable and swage fitting It seems to have done the job.

I might use a swage tool later for better compression.

 

I do not know what to say except it sounds a bit of a Mickey Mouse solution to me. 🙄

 

Here is the swage fitting with covers.

First put two sleeves on cable, push down and away for now. Gorilla glue cable lightly and inserted cable inside swage fitting. Let set for short period, then Gorilla glue lightly the outside swage fitting and slice cover over, leaving enough outside, to slide the smaller sleeve. Glue cable and small sleeve lightly, and slide it where it goes inside, and buts the swage fitting. You have multiple surfaces bonding for secure fit.



New swage fitting with cable inserted loosely inside

Cable glued to swage fitting, large sleeve glued to outer fitting, cable glued below fitting small sleeve glued, and pushed inside large sleeve and butted against fitting.
You can then or later for added compression use press.

 

Still working and flap cable holding