I'm talking about the thick part on the rear of the top that's all one piece with the weatherstripping that seals the rear bow to the tonneau cover. It came out easy enough, but there is a metal frame under the rubber, and no matter how I try to get it back into the channels, and beat on it with a rubber mallet, it just won't go back in. All the videos online explain how hard it is, and then they cut away to it being finished (I imagine there was a lot of cussing if it's gone anything like mine) . Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

I am not 100% sure of this but I seem to remember a long time ago a member posted he used a type of a (maybe silicon?) lubricant applied to the weatherstripping before assembly, Have you tried a search? Best try if this recollection/suggestion is on point.


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If it is “T” shaped like the seal at the bottom of the doors, you put silicon lube on it and use a credit card to push it in, and you just push on anything still poking out with your fingers.

 

When Robert and Zach replaced my top, they used no lube. (Well, I don't THINK they did.)
I will message Robert and ask him to comment here.

Message sent, give him a few hours to respond.

 

If you have beat on it with a mallet, you might have that metal channel inside the rubber misshaped now, and need to either use a screwdriver to open it some or pliers to close it some. What has worked for me was to only use a flat trim tool. Start with pushing in the inside edge of the rubber gasket and once you have that edge down in the frame slot, while keeping pressure on the inside edge start pushing in the outside edge. It's important to maintain the pressure on the inside edge while doing the outside edge or the inside edge will pop out as you do the outside edge. Once I have them both down in the frame, I usually go back over the inside and outside edges with the flat trim tool. Just be careful as you withdraw the trim tool, to not pull the rubber gasket back out of the frame slot.
I might have misread your question because I have never removed the gasket between the back bow frame and the tonneau cover. It's not necessary to remove it there, only on the sides, at the windows. I'm not sure now that fits into the back bow frame.

 

That didn't take long.

 

Thanks guys. The channel had opened up too much when pulling it out and pushing it back together (creating a narrower channel) was the ticket. I didn't beat on it too hard so I didn't deform the metal too badly. Got the top on and complete...however, it's a tad too tight (I bought from BAS International). It's very difficult to pull down the header to latch, and when I do, it pulls the rear bow under the rear window up, so that I can see daylight under the seal. Hoping a little sunshine once it warms up will allow it to stretch a little and ease the tension. The new top looks great...it's just a little too small (if it doesn't stretch).

Some other issues I had while installing the top...there's a small rope attached to a spring in the header, and the other end attaches to the first crossbar (I'm assuming this makes pushing the header up after unlatching the d-ring a little easier). I didn't see this in any of the instructions, and I didn't notice when one side came loose from its retention channel in the crossbar. Trying to get it back in with the top all secure and riveted has proven...challenging. Another issue I had, was as I was putting the passenger side weather stripping back in place with a rubber mallet, I missed a bit and smashed the top open sensor. Pieces flew off and I'm pretty sure it's now FUBAR. I'll be posting a new thread to see if anyone knows where to find a replacement. I didn't see anything on ebay, and all the MOPAR parts sites have been out of stock for replacement parts for a while...

 

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It's normal for the top to be tight for a few weeks. The first couple of days, I had to have someone push down on the passenger side, while I pulled down on the driver side. The switch will have to be found from a used parts source. I need to add a comment in my write-up about being aware and careful with that switch.
With that spring loaded cord not attached, you will probably have to be careful while closing the top,, because it will probably want to slam down easier.

 

Deja vu all over again. I was doing a BAS top on a Oyster Gold ( very rare ) and i did the same thing. Luckily an old friend had a parts roadster and he sent me the switch.
My advise is to search here and Facebook for someone parting out a roadster.
BTW, you can just connect the 2 wires together till you find a switch, just be sure to not hit the top down button before releasing and raising the front.
Possibly a mercury switch will work ?
Or better yet, a ball bearing switch :


or ( 9 doll hairs and free shipping ):
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