Ok; here's MY version of the complete install for the LET 185mm pulleys(I don't know if the 181 or 178's come with the two idler pulleys as well)......



Pop hood


Remove two clips on very top of fan assy. that hold it against the radiator, unplug the one plug in for the fan on the drivers' side of the assy..............then pull fan assy. straight up and out of the car(make sure to move aside the hoses that snag as you pull it up).

Once that's out you can see everything with a flash light. Before you remove the serpentine belt it is best to loosen(don't remove yet) the 4 10mm bolts that hold the water pump pulley in place.


You will need an E10(inverted torx) socket and long 3/8'' drive ratchet. Put that on the gold(I believe) torx looking piece that's in the middle of the tensioner which is located halfway down the engine towards the drivers' side and with about a 1/4 turn counter clock wise the tensioner will be loose enough to remove the belt from around the crank pulley and other two pulleys(there is NO need to remove the belt completely; waste of time).

now you can take a 1/2 impact gun with short 27mm socket and remove the crank bolt. Once removed the pulley will just slide off the crank(make note of where the keyway is so you can quickly align the new pulley) then slide the new pulley on and put a dab or two of blue(or red) locktite on the NEW crank bolt and impact it back on.

Next you're onto the other pulleys; finish removing the 4 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley and remove............then install the new one(you can hand thread bolts part way then tighten once the belt is back in place), now the top idler pulley has one 15mm bolt that you must remove and it will pull rite off...........if the new pulley has a spacer with it that goes on the OUTSIDE of the idler pulley when reinstalled to retain correct spacing from the motor. You can put a dab of blue locktite on that bolt as well.

On reinstall of the belt do the 1/4 turn on the tensioner(or go until you feel decent resistance) and put the belt back around the pulleys you removed it from..............release the tensioner. Now go over EVERY pulley and make sure that the belt is seated perfectly in the middle of all pulleys............if not then turn tensioner enough to get slack and move belt into the proper grooves. Once that's done you can do the final tightening of the 4 10 mm bolts on the one idler pulley. All pulleys are now done


Reinstall the fan making sure that the two tabs on the very bottom of the shroud fit flush against the radiater and fall into the seating holes. Then put both clips back on top of radiator, plug it in and go fire up the engine for a minute then shut it off. If there's no loud noises or belt movement then close the hood and enjoy your new power.


Tools needed:
1/2'' impact
27mm short socket
15mm 3/8'' socket
10mm 3/8''(or 1/4'') socket
3/8'' ratchet(and possibly 1/4'' ratchet)
small flat head screwdriver for radiator clip removal and plug in disconnect
E10(inverted torx) bit
locktite

 

MUCH appreciated. Very nice write up.

 

Yea great write-up! Remember the idler pulley that needs to be replaced is below the s/c pulley not beside it...not that i know wnyone that would take that one off by accident.

 

Hi Guys,

I have been driving with the new 181 pulley for about a week now. The gas pedal is much more sensitive now; however, I noticed oil leakage on top of the oil reservoir on the left hand side of the crank pulley. I think this is new because there were no stain before. Does anybody experience this? I couldn't figure our where the leak is with out removing the serpentine belt and pulleys.

 

Find the issue?

 

OK got the pulleys on today.

Updates to the instructions above:
1) You better have a Super Heavy Duty Impact my 525ft lb did not budge it.
2) the idler pulley listed above with the 4-10mm bolts is not an idler but the water pump pulley.
3) dont be supprised that the crank pulley does not go on very far - I am more used to SBC and the balancer/pulley installs much further in to the block
4) I did not use the lock tight on the crank - service manual said to oil the bolt tighten to 80 ft lb + 90 degree turn (I impacted)
5) I removed the SC idler pulley/bracket to install a new Gatorback belt

Noticably more umph! Throttle is a bit more responsive. Do hear the SC a bit more. Engine temp is a little higher, gauge on the line when before it was just below the same line (or maybe I was driving it harder )

Next - install SB or the intercooler fans.....Have both just have to get them installed

BTW: for pulleys, these are great looking. No one said anything about the nice paint job & the LET MOTORSPORTS engraved along the edge of the idler. Purdy.

 

I dont recall noticeing any engraving on mine.

My impact barely got the crank bolt off, odd thing is i reached down with my other hand and twisted the socket as i hit it with the impact, and to my amazemnet thats all it took.

 

There was an issue with our vendor that supplied us the idler pulley which caused us to have a shipping delay to some of you.

They were telling us another 3 weeks, so I found another vendor and they put our name / part number on the pulley.

Some of you have the newer idler pulley that says "LET Motor Sports" on it. The first orders had a blank idler.

 

Here it is:

LET.jpg

 

I like my blank pulley...................no need for anybody to know I changed anything.

 

I could always black it out...but for now I like it

 

Are there any "known" issues with running a 181mm pulley without a tune?

Any trouble spots to look for without a tune?

Thanks in advance.

 

No, but tuning really opens the car up.

 

The tune is amazing. My car is so much fun to drive, she is brutal with amazing throttle response. Get a tune, tap the gas, hold on for the fun. I love driving her so much more, I need to just sell the WRX and get two SRT6's or a c320 AMG but then I would get that one LET tunes as well.

 

H.K.
Have you been 1/4 mile racing with your SRT6 before and after the tune?