First, I did a search and read through about three pages of posts. Lots of good information, but I'd like some clarification from those with direct experience.

Background: Used SRT6 with only 8,500 miles making a grinding sound from front end when braking. Feel pulsing in steering wheel. Getting worse. Took it to the stealership today who told me 12k/12mo on rotors and that they had to be replaced. Quoted $1,000 for OEM rotors and pads and $760 for OEM and aftermarket pads. Fronts only. Exited trying not to laugh.

Requirements: This is a street SRT6 that is driven relatively conservatively and will never see the track. Yah - I drive it at speeds that will lose me my license, but not to the point of where I need to slam on the brakes to stop. I usually just back off and let it slow down on its own from 130+.

Q1: For regular street driving, is there any advantage or disadvantage to drilled and slotted? Some of the posts claim they wear out the pads faster. Would OEM or =OEM work just as well?

Q2: For decent stopping and less brake dust, would I be better off with Disc Italia ceramic (which I hear can wear the rotors faster) or Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar? Are Rotex Gold an option and are they available for the SRT6?

Q3: Any bad choices or experiences from which I can learn?

 

Check out brakeworld.com
yes crossdrilled is better!

 

There are so many good and relatively inexpensive options in aftermarket rotors and pads. Nothing for nothing but those no/low dust ceramic pads just don't stop as well as more conventional pad materials. Also, the cross-drilled rotors do have a greater tendency toward cracking rather than warping. They look cool and would seem like they'd stay much cooler, but in practice don't give if any you much over good slotted rotors. Usually it's pad material gassing that causes fade, and the slots give the gas a channel to dissipate just like the holes in cross-drilled.

 

I have the Disc Italia rotors for the track and they are NOT cyro treated from the factory. Maybe they would crack easier if they weren't treated. I had mind treated because I knew I was going to abuse them something awful. I have no cracking yet.

HDDP has been running the factory rotors with race pads and no problems for a long time since he upgraded to SRT6 brakes, so OEM rotors would be just fine.

I would suggest the Rotex Gold or the ceramic for low dust, BUT others would have to chime in as to their stopping power.

Porterfield does make a R4-S compound pad that is high friction, but lower dust than OEM.

Hope that helps!

 

I'm no true motorhead but I can change brake pads and find the Rotex Gold are easy and seems to work well. I bought the car with ~6K on it and now have ~17K with Rotex and they brake well, clean easily, and were quick to change. Maybe I should have turned the rotors but so far they seem to work OK.