I must be out of the loop! Has your waranty expired? Can you buy a new one, instead of used? Great information! I'm sure all SRT owners will see this problem with more miles on them.

 

Yes, my waranty had expired 4000 miles ago. And yes, I could buy a new one but being $1300 into this saga already, I was first hoping a club member and I could work a deal to buy one they have sitting on the shelf after upgrading to Code-3.

 

It seems I too have developed the same problem. bugger!

I have e-mailed code 3 and hope they can help repair/replace has anyone had theirs replaced? I have one of the first ones which works perfectly with no slip at all and no belt damage!

Fingers crossed I don't want to shell out for a new one and pay import tax's etc!!

Lee

 

OK now this is just plain odd.

I have had a good poke around and the noise is only there when the AC is on??
I am absolutely sure it is coming from the pulley but falls silent the moment I turn off the AC!
And I mean the exact moment.

I have inspected the pulley and there is no rotational movement at all but I can move the pulley ring to make contact with the clutch by hand (i.e flexing the springs) This it not possible with the standard pulley???

Again the pulley is as quiet as a mouse with the AC off (it is only just started to be warm enough to use it)

Ant ideas?

Could it cause any damage??

Lee

 

The a/c adds to the belt loading and can change the stress on other pulleys making another or different result. Woody

 

Hey kldiet glad your problem has been discovered.Now the problem is other than buying a used oem s/c pulley that been taken out of service, you cannot buy a one without buying the complete s/c.Good luck on your search for the oem s/c pulley.ILLCYA

 

what's the consensus then? Do I need a new pulley or is it a charecteristic of the code 3 as it is silent and works as intended when the ac is not on?

 

It's been awhile on this one, so let's recap. First off, I am still running a stock pulley, but with Code-3 bearing. This was the first attempt to get rid of the noise. Noise seems to be amplified if you turn on the AC but is in no way associated with anything in the AC system (thank GOD) except through the shared belt drive. After the $35 bearing swap did not solve the problem, took car to both a Chrysler and Benz shop and was told it was inside the Supercharger. This was 1000% incorrect. The Supercharger is fine. The noise comes from the elongation of the rivet holes that wear over time (30-40K miles). The noise is not life threatening. But sounds really bad at times. I have run a good 5-10K miles with the noise. I'm still looking for a GOOD standard pulley (low miles) if anyone has one for sale. I can not speak to the reliability of the Code-3 pulley, but the bearing has held up just fine. See my series of You-Tubes on the subject.

 

I failed to mention in my last post that based solely on what the expert mechanics at Chrysler and MB told me,I actually replaced the SC on my car with one I got off eBay for $1000. To my shock and horror, when I started the car, the noise was still there. At first, I was also convinced the noise was coing from the SC and not the pulley. WRONG. As a quick and simple test, (WARNING: This is NOT recommended because of safety reasons), a friend of mine held the back side of the SC clutch, engine off, which stops the SC from turning. You then start the car (idle only) and pop on the AC... the noise happens. If noise is there with the SC not spinning at all, this test can isolate and prove the problem is the pulley. This came after spending $1200 to that point chasing the problem. Beats the $6ooo the dealer wanted.

The pulley has three metal straps that act as springs to pull back the clutch face plate when the clutch is not engaged. Over time, the rivet holes elongate enough to create a bit of sloop in the pulley. See my video that compares a GOOD pulley with a BAD pulley (again, both pulleys in the video are standard pulleys, and not CODE-3).

Hope this helps anyone who may be faced with ugly SC/pulley noise and experts wanting you to spend BIG BUCKS to fix the problem.
Karl

 

SORRY KARL, I GUESS I GOT THE OEM PULLEYS AND THE CODE 3 BEARINGS MIXED UP.MY APOLOGYS TO CODE 3 ALSO. ILLCYA

 

Well, I am experiencing the same sounds as kldiet at 51,xxx miles. Looks like I will have to have the pulley replaced. Does it make sense to purchase a new serpentine belt and water pump at the same time? Also, is this a DIY for someone with moderate mechanical skills? I'd hate to pay the stealership big bucks only to find out I could do it myself.

Kevin

 

remove c clip from pulley use press and push out old bearing install new bearing replace clip.

 

Ok, so I brought the car into the dealership knowing that the sound was coming from the idler pulley. When I brought it in, I told them that the noise sounded like it was coming from the area of the supercharger and thier eyes kind of lit up. Then I mentioned that I had an extended service contract that would cover the replacement of the supercharger and that was it. They wasted no time in coming to the conclusion that the supercharger needed to be replaced along with gaskets, coolant, at least one pulley and a couple other extraneous parts. My cost, $100. Any downsides that you can think of? Well, other than the occassional twinge of guilt that passes rather quickly

Kevin

 

I sure hope you got to keep all the good spare parts they removed from your car. And I hope they did a much better job of fixing the car than doing the diagnostics of what was wrong with it. You know that to do the SC swap, the fuel rail and all your injectors need to be removed and reinstalled properly. Then the new SC needs to be properly fitted back to the intercooler that sits right under it. This thing usues almost all Torc nuts and bolts, so the shop best have a complete set or T-n and E-n sockets available.

If you have a spare pulley, send it to me and I won't tell.

 

So replacing the bearing will fix the issue. Awesome.

 

Well, since you revived this old thread, I never did ask which generation code 3 pulley went bad. I have both generation pullies.

 

I can't believe it has been 3 years since this thread was started. A lot has changed. Using an iPad now and not a PC for starters. Here is the latest on the SRT-6 SC noise problem that a number of you fine folks have or are or will experience given enough miles on the car and your driving style. This thread first off addresses a particular type noise that is associated with the pulley on the front of the supercharger. The dealer may be incorrect if they tell you it is something inside the SC. A simple test can prove that this is or is not the case. The trick is to not let the main SC shaft spin while allowing only the pulley to rotate. This is extremely dangerous procedure that only works at idle speed but clearly isolates the noise to the pulley and only the pulley. I do not reccomend anyone try this. Read on for an easier solution. Chances are very low that the main SC is at fault here. If you have already replaced the pulley bearing and maybe also the idler pulley, then here is your problem. You will be amazed to find out. The root cause is the rivets holding the pulley together are made of a metal that is too soft and over time, extrudes just a little bit and allows a wee bit of play to develop around the rivet holes. In the worst case, the rivet might shear off and cause the spring steal strap to fly out and act like the string on a weed eater. Solution, hit it with a hammer. Not the pulley, just the rivets. This wil actually work to remove the play and tighten up the springs back to the way it was originally how long this will last is still a mystery. See my YouTube video on the way a good pulley looks and feels anyhow one that is making a lot of noise looks and feels.

 

this has been known on the mercedes forums since the car was built. hitting it with a hammer isnt the solution. the solution if the starps are loose is to drill out the rivets and replace them with aircraft quality rivets. good as new and done correctly

 

Do you have the specs on the replacement rivets. Drill out and replace is correct solution if you have access to the correct replacement parts.

 

Got my car back from the dealer after replacing the tranny fluid and they said my idler pulley is making noise. May be the same problem as noted in this thread. Now I'm doing my homework. The A/C helps with the noise for sure. Maybe it's time to find a belt saver kit.