So, I'm trying to install a 185 pulley and my buddy and I got stuck trying to remove the Crank pulley. We used ProjectMayhem's suggestion of using an extension to brace the pulley while using a 3/4 Breaker bar. That didn't work so we then used a Crank Bolt remover type thing that apparently removed 2JZ crank bolts which are torqued to something ridiculously high and that failed to work as well

The reason why I'm changing is due to my OEM crank pulley separating. The inner rubber piece is not flush with the rest of the pulley but we think that the reason why we cant get the crank bolt off is due to the separation (have pics on my phone, will post later). This is all speculation but I can't see why it would be so hard for 2 people using a lot of strength on a breaker bar and it not even budging. We're going to put the car back together tomorrow cause we're both tired so hopefully nothing worse is wrong with it

Any info or insight would be appreciated.

We couldn't get his impact gun to fit in there due to the radiator and we didn't feel like taking the radiator out cause of the trans cooling lines going in and out and he has reason to believe that the impact gun probably wouldn't put out as much torque as a breaker bar with a long pipe extension would. Worst case is I put the engine back to stock and take it to the dealer and hedge my bets that they'll be able to get it off since they'll probably have higher torque tools

 

the tq spec on the crank bolt is 270 ft/lbs plus a 90 degree turn. it is definitely a biotch to loosen up. a buddy and i had to really crank on it with a break bar with a long pipe over it. GL!

 

I think w're just going to try to find a more shallow socket tomorrow so hopefully that works...cross my fingers

 

I used a impact and then used thread locker, Woody

 

Use a high torque but short impact that you can get ahold of. Maybe even hit the rental place. That will be your best and easiest chance of getting the job done. Also replace the bolt while your at it.

 

x2 I had no issues taking it out or reinstalling it.

 

I would add that in doing mine I held the socket to the right when using the impact and it did a better job. Took about 5 or 10 mins of with my impact wrench but finally came loose. Another good idea that was passed on to me was to put a sheet of something against the radiator so when you back out the bolt you dont run the wrench in it. I have a nice sheet of 3/16 plexiglas that worked great. And yes, the wrench back into it.

Dont forget the new bolt and blue locktite....... Good luck...

 

Impact wrench for the win.

I've only removed one crankshaft bolt in my life without an impact wrench, and that experience taught me an important lesson: To buy an impact wrench!

I have two...a small 250 ft/lb one and a huge 1600 ft/lb one for seriously stuck buggers.

Removing the radiator isn't hard...

 

I had to use a pipe 3' long placed over the braker bar and held the pully with apipe wrench being the pully was shot anyway,,, got it off. jim

 

The "good" impact does work. You can very easily remove it with a breaker bar & socket you just need a helper to lock the flywheel. There is an access panel and a special tool or you can just use a pry bar (do not actully prying anything just hold the flywheel with it)
And an impact will tighten it up, but you will not get the stretch out of the bolt. I have done it both ways and it is amazing how much that extra 90 degrees is. Important or not.....maybe - but I am sure there is a reason.

 

Quote:

the tq spec on the crank bolt is 270 ft/lbs plus a 90 degree turn...

Definitely eat your Wheaties first.
Our crank pulley bolt best be twisted home to its initial specification of 147 ft-lbs/200Nm, and then an additional ninety degrees.

M112-113CrankPulleyBoltTorque.jpg

 

Yea it took nearly all my strength to break it loose, gues i should of mentioned the 6'5 mod involved in removing the bolt with a breaker bar manually .

 

well that separation turned out to be a worse problem, for now, it might get even worse tomorrow.

So when we finally got it off the crank bolt was actually bent toward the top near the head. Not much, but enough to give us trouble. So we install the 185 setup and that apparently doesn't seat right because it's leaking oil. So now since I'm out of a car I need to get a new OEM balancer/crank pulley and I'm going back to the stock setup or the S/C pulley. I'm not sure because the absolute worst case scenario is I have a bent crankshaft. We won't know until tomorrow until we have a new stock part since my original pulley is all jacked up

Anyway, it hasn't been a fun couple days.

 

I guess I'm not clear on what happened here. Sounds like you finally got the crank bolt off...why aren't you putting the 185mm on? If its leaking oil, then I'm guesing you jacked up the seal. I would think you'd just reaplec the seal (sounds like it'll need done anyway) and then install the 185 pulley...guess I'm not sure if I'm missing something here. Can we see those pics you mentioned?

 

Seating has nothing to do with leaking oil. It's the oil seal that seals around the balancer. Did you oil up the balancer and/or the seal before you put the 185 on? If not you may have damaged the seal and that would cause your leak. Chances are if your seal is bad that it will leak with the stock balancer now anyway.
Doubt that you have a bent crank. Don't get discouraged and resort back to the stock balancer. Install a new seal (if I recall it's abit of a pain to seat properly), oil it and try the 185 again.

If you must go back to the stock one I have one I'll trade ya for the 185 cuz it doesn't work (for you).

Oh yeah. Remove the radiator and use an impact wrench to install/uninstall the balancer. Radiator comes out by pulling two clips and disconnecting the fan wires. No tranny lines involved. VERY simple. Now fix that car and get it back on the road!

 

We had one car that came into the shop that seemed like the bolt was welded in. WIth one of my worker's holding the pulley tool and me pulling the wrench I was able to cause him to lose his balance way before the bolt move. It took two of us on the wrench and two of us holding it to break it loose. SOme bolts are cursed.

 

Off topic.

Anthony, I sent an email for info on your aluminum tubes for the SL55 intake and havent gotten any responses. Can you PM or email me with price and availability. Thanks.


Back on topic now.......

 

Also don't forget to use liberal amounts of moly grease on the seal before replacing it. If you do not, it's too easy to have it deform and cause a leak when installing.

 

Well the shop that the car is at now replaced the seal today and it was still leaking, they think it's the 185 pulley itself, so we're getting a new OEM crank pulley and calling it quits since I need a new one anyway. I'm just gonna keep it stock or stay with the S/C pulley.