No Boost:(
I too replaced a perfectly running pump ($175 ouch) only to find out the problem was not enough cooling between the intercooler and heat exchanger.
Problem was permanently solved when the dealer replaced the intercooler.
Problem was permanently solved when the dealer replaced the intercooler.
[quote=ZAHANMA]I actually had a short in my ambient temp sensor. It was shorted out showing -34F when it was unplugged and should be reading 130F or something like that. Basically there had been a short across and the polarity switched. I pulled my ambient temp sensor, put a wire in there to cause a short. Then i reset the battery drove for a few weeks without a ambient temp sensor, then put the temp sensor back in to test it out. Works just fine.
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
same thing happened to my pickup!! replaced every sensor known to man but the temp sensor cause it threw no code! 400$ later and a tow the mechanic put a 12$ sensor in and it was fixed! temps read -190 * and the ecu was dumping gallons of fuel!!
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
same thing happened to my pickup!! replaced every sensor known to man but the temp sensor cause it threw no code! 400$ later and a tow the mechanic put a 12$ sensor in and it was fixed! temps read -190 * and the ecu was dumping gallons of fuel!!
Sorry, My earlier post I said the fuse for the pump was #19 it's not it's #13 a 10 amp red fuse. Sorry for the mistake. I think my mind is going, it's kinda like a supercharge with a bad pump sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.
Im particularly interested in this thread because lately my IATs have been through the roof...225 degrees at the end of the 1/4 mile or on a highway blast. Sometimes the s/c shuts off and sometimes it does not. The i/c pump sees to be fine.
I just went out and experimented with this. I dont have to engauge the gear selector for the pump to come on. I was reving it to 2000'ish rpm and it came on every time. Each time i shut the car off and sure enough the pump did not come back on until i blipped the throttle again. Car was fully warmed, not sure if that matters.
So what was wrong with your old intercooler. Did it leak or was it clogged? It would be very odd for the intercooler to stop working are you sure the dealership didnt replace a sensor while they were in there?
Im not fully understanding this. Did your dash still show the correct temp even when the ambient temp sensor was removed? Because myself and two other members have pulled our ambient temp sensors and they also showed -36.
Originally Posted by tighed1
Errrrnt! (failed buzzer sound)
Pump turns on when the supercharger first kicks in then remains on until the car is shut off.
Remove the cap from the top of the coolant overflow/storage tank.
Use visegrips or whatever and pinch the upper hose coming from the intercooler below the "Y".
Pull off the tiny hose that is on top of the tank and hold it over the now open storage tank.
Start the car. Put it in gear (DON'T forget to use the brake!) and rev over 1300 rpm so that the SC kicks on. Put car in park.
Coolant should flow from the tiny hose if the pump is on.
I think!
Pump turns on when the supercharger first kicks in then remains on until the car is shut off.
Remove the cap from the top of the coolant overflow/storage tank.
Use visegrips or whatever and pinch the upper hose coming from the intercooler below the "Y".
Pull off the tiny hose that is on top of the tank and hold it over the now open storage tank.
Start the car. Put it in gear (DON'T forget to use the brake!) and rev over 1300 rpm so that the SC kicks on. Put car in park.
Coolant should flow from the tiny hose if the pump is on.
I think!
Originally Posted by tighed1
I too replaced a perfectly running pump ($175 ouch) only to find out the problem was not enough cooling between the intercooler and heat exchanger.
Problem was permanently solved when the dealer replaced the intercooler.
Problem was permanently solved when the dealer replaced the intercooler.
Originally Posted by ZAHANMA
I actually had a short in my ambient temp sensor. It was shorted out showing -34F when it was unplugged and should be reading 130F or something like that. Basically there had been a short across and the polarity switched. I pulled my ambient temp sensor, put a wire in there to cause a short. Then i reset the battery drove for a few weeks without a ambient temp sensor, then put the temp sensor back in to test it out. Works just fine.
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
It was apparently telling the computer it was -34F outside causing the computer to dump fuel to account for the negative temps...however, since there were no negative temps it cause the engine to overheat and shut off the engine...not to mention the 16mpg I was getting.
In answer to the question I see coming, yes I thought it was the I/C pump. I replaced it, and it kept doing the same thing. Pump was most definitely still working...
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
It was apparently telling the computer it was -34F outside causing the computer to dump fuel to account for the negative temps...however, since there were no negative temps it cause the engine to overheat and shut off the engine...not to mention the 16mpg I was getting.
In answer to the question I see coming, yes I thought it was the I/C pump. I replaced it, and it kept doing the same thing. Pump was most definitely still working...
Last edited by 240M3SRT; Dec 14, 2009 at 08:05 PM.
Originally Posted by 240M3SRT
So what was wrong with your old intercooler. Did it leak or was it clogged?
Prior to the repair I would always get overtemp problems with the stock HE. That's why I went to the Woody SuperCooler before.
Now I'm running the new IC and the SuperCooler. Cool!
Originally Posted by 240M3SRT
Im not fully understanding this. Did your dash still show the correct temp even when the ambient temp sensor was removed? Because myself and two other members have pulled our ambient temp sensors and they also showed -36.
^^^^ that is what I saw when I had the bumper off doing my SSB breaks. I turned the car on and the temp read -36* with the sensor disconnected. It didnt feel that cold...
I re-wired my IC Pump to run all the time, it helps reduces recovery time, takes all the guess work out and keeps the pump from switching on-and-off like a light switch during heavy and rapid pedal work.
I'm sure my Johnson will weaken with time so I've got my eye on this puppy. After all my other mods; I can't see the point in going cheap on such an important component.
I'm sure my Johnson will weaken with time so I've got my eye on this puppy. After all my other mods; I can't see the point in going cheap on such an important component.
I have my Johnson within easy reach - just so I can feel it hummm from time to time..... The only "blue" additive I need is a 25% mixture of antifreeze.
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
I have my Johnson within easy reach - just so I can feel it hummm from time to time..... The only "blue" additive I need is a 25% mixture of antifreeze.
Originally Posted by 240M3SRT
Brian have you had any issues with that pump that high up. I think thats higher than the inlet for the stock or LET HE, and maybe even the supercooler. Not sure it matters but i tested the pump out in a bucket of water and it will not pump unless it is primed(introduced water) first.
With the ignition switch in the "on" position, I can open the cap on my flow tank and watch the coolant flow with a pretty decent force.
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
My johnson sits lower than the flow tank and the intercooler. The flow tank directly feeds the johnson - then off to the intercooler. No priming issues.
With the ignition switch in the "on" position, I can open the cap on my flow tank and watch the coolant flow with a pretty decent force.
With the ignition switch in the "on" position, I can open the cap on my flow tank and watch the coolant flow with a pretty decent force.
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