If AMX Jim or anyone else has a broken rear or hub, "I dont need the ring and pinion..., just the hub and shaft", please let me know. Ill pay for the shipping as I believe that I have a way to beef up the existing rear so that the pin does not chew up the case. Should be a low cost upgrade to your existing rear.

To preform the preliminary work I need to actually have a bum unit to do some work on. Could be a fix for the click and stop further failure of the other rears out there. Does anyone have a bad rear that they can part with?? Please let me know.

Enjoying the weather in Carlisle Pa. W Dy

 

Wanna trade a whole bum rearend for a wonder woody T-stat?

 

I would like to work this out. I don't have a spare housing but do want to accomidate you on your offer. Thanks. Woody

 

woody, i sent mayham a pm for rudy and myself,, her is the just of it ,, " you have a good ring and pinion and rudy has the rest of the diff ,, with the two we could build one ,,,weld it weld the spiders on all sides weld the pin into the housing, this way it becomes a bulit proff rear week link being the ring and pinion the reasion for this is to make sure the wavetrac is worth the money and make sure we are not spending 1200 dollars and find out there is another week spot like axles or whatever, if you mayham gould get with rudy send him your R&P he would install everything weld everything and send it to me for testing. thanks jim"

 

jim i get the idea of what you are wanting to do but remember the weled internals will be a bear for everyday rides or those that want to autocross.
as far as weak links go as a racer you are well aware once you fix 1 weak link another will always show up. power always transfers to the weakest spot. wavetrac was not ever designed to strengthen the axles or the carrier bearings. it is the cure for the weak spider gears and internals and to evenly transfer power to both wheels. if the ring and pinion then fail it isnt because of the wavetrac or any welding work you have done. moving parts fail. moving parts under high hp and tremendous stresses fail faster. its part and parcel of racing

more than anybody i want a fix for this issue. i have big plans for my 32 but everything is on hold until the diff is fixed. everyone wants a lsd but balk at the price. racing costs $$ compare the cost of the diff to everything else you put in your car and its a decent and cost effective mod

 

32 my car is 90% track and 10% street,, i went to the track on 6-30, parked my car and my car has been driven two blocks in the last 10 days ,,i have had a few cars with the rear welded, because i could not afford a posi rear, the worse part is parking, other than that it is easy,, and this would be to test the use of a wavetrac, i don't want to spend 1200 and find that the ring and or pinion brakes on my 20th run,,, the best way is the 327 or higher gears.this is where i want to go but until then a welded rear is the way to go for the money and just another to test the rear,, i plan to buy a wavetrac if it is made for our car. until then i will with Rudy and Woody keep testing different things jim

 

i get what your saying. again the ring and pinion failure have no effect on the wavetrac. speaking with rudy his feeling is the 3.27 gearing will bolt right in and tony from buckhead imports is of the mind he can adjust the tcu if he can get some files to look at. if it all melds together the possibilties are endless!! can you say 5.13 gears!!!!

 

,,
beleave me i know the wavetrac is not going to help the R & P if it is the weak point but or the tested welded unit will tell us that the money is not wasted. (everyone always ask has it been dyno tested (intake ,,pulley, ecu) i am speaking of ,, well the rear would be the same , we need to test it,, , as for me i know it will be ok as i have tested many things before, ( example ,,pic from 1968 amx diff.) I have already installed the 327 into my car,, at 3 gear it goes to limp mode i also have been working close with rudy to find a fix for the tcm,, jim-6-30-2010weldedrear002.jpg
-6-30-2010weldedrear001.jpg

 

nothing wrong with experimenting...and not everyone will pony up for a wavetrac...I'm in...for the coupe, and if everything works fine, and solves the problem...I will buy one for the roadster...these are my toys, and I like to play hard...by drag racing...just not into going round and round...it's fun now and then, but I like the other...just waiting to see one up and running...ready to go...

 

I tried driving a spool rear on the street and its ugly for sure. You would convert the car to the track as you cant turn with out chirping the tires. There is a reason that people dont do it on the street.

My goal is to fab up a SIMPLE fix for the rears that are still working and make them immune to the pin tear out problem. Maybe as easy as 'owner style fix' .

Woody back for Carlisle for this year.

 

If there is anything I can do to help you towards your research/goal, let me know.

 

5.13 gears??? I had these gears for off roading Alloy USA Ring & Pinion in my '06 Rubicon. I was turning 37x13.50 rubber though.... May wanna tone it down though... 3.73s or 3.92 I can see, 4.10s being the highest. I doubt you'll wanna go 4.56s and higher. Those are for big boy toys.

 

You've never driven an SRT-6 then have you

I don't think you would want to go to even 3.73s if you want to drive your car on the street. A 3.73 would be great for the strip, but not so much fun for the street or the road tracks...with a top speed of like 130 haha.

3.27 seems to be more of a better option for the SRT-6s.

And I think 32krazy! was kidding about 5.13 gears. Haha.

 

I had 444 in my amx and ran 11.02,@ 121 your right ,,not on the street for the street you would want (in a crossfire) 350 maybe 391 but that is about it. just you know the PT Cruiser comes with 391 , here is the info on a honda accord look at the rear ratios ,,, with overdrive you can have high gears. jim
EX-L EX V-6 / EX-L V-6 5-Speed Manual TransmissionStandard Standard Gear Ratios: 1st: 3.267, 2nd: 1.778, 3rd: 1.154, 4th: 0.870, 5th: 0.647, Reverse: 3.583, Final Drive Ratio: 4.39 5-Speed Automatic Transmission (available)Standard Standard Gear Ratios: 1st: 2.652, 2nd: 1.517 , 3rd: 1.037 , 4th: 0.738 , 5th: 0.566, Reverse: 2.000, Final Drive Ratio: 4.44

 

while i tend to lean towards the absurd my point was that between woodys idea and tony the tuner tweaking the tcu the possibilities are endless. with guys running blown v8, turbos and twin charged all for the tracks a 5.13 is within the realm of possiblities.

 

agree.. jim

 

I would be in for anything 370-395 range. I think best case would be to change each gear ratio as well, but I would be willing and happy to start with the rear first and see how it does with everything else stock. I'll even volunteer my car as a guinny pig. A mustang gt came up on me trying to race yesterday. I ignored him like most others, confident that I had nothing to prove and then he guns it. The supercharger kicks in very loudly on that cobra and he is pretty quick. I'm glad I didn't race him. I just smiled and waved. I think the gearing gives a lot of advantages to a lot of American cars, because they don't have to worry about going over 115mph, so they can get there quick. LOL

 

I'd personally just weld the diff, plus the pin that seems to back out and be done with it. me and a bunch of people run welded diffs on the street... nothing wrong with it

 

Why not have one diff exclusively for strip - and have one for the street?

Fab up a rig for your floor jack and quick change becomes a snap..

With the proper gearing - you'll really "hear the rear" sing...

 

Having been one of the first if not the first to pull a Crossfire rear, there is no quick change and then there is the shims and alignment to get right. It aint a light bulb.

Id say that your looking at several severe hours of labor. What with pulling the wheels, axles, shocks, struts and then the shaft just to get to the pumpkin. THen you do the change and start back again, PHEW.

Me I want one rear that works. Woody