Hey Guys!!

A while back I was having split personality problems with my '05 SRT6 Roadster. It would run like a bat out of hell one minute and no so great the next. Thanks to help and education from some of you I decide the intercooler pump had crapped out and installed a "big johnson" and that woke it right up. All was good.

Today I took it out on a little trip. She was running great until after I completed an interstate cruise of about 35 minutes averaging around 80 mph. Got off the interstate and noticed the usual oomph wasn't there. When my car loses the huffer it doesn't run bad...Many people would be satisfied. Its still fairly quick, just not "spooky quick" like it should be. On the way home I stopped by a local parts store and got them to pull the codes....And there were none.

I'm wondering if my problem was the intake air temp sensor all along. Maybe the added capacity of the "johnson" made the failing sensor indicate a "safe to boost" intake temp. But as time went on the sensor continued to deteriorate and is now indicating a high intake temp.

Any of you fellas experience anything similar? Anybody ever have the intake air temp sensor to fail? If so did your car throw a code?

Thanks in advance.-Rusty

 

yes, my sensor was bad, dealership replaced the pump, only to find the sensor was bad...try that next...

 

Check the wire connections to the pump and also the fuse. I had a similar problem after installing a new IC pump and found out one of the wire connections came loose. Easy fix if that is the problem.

 

It depends. If the sensor is just reading off, it won't throw a code, the ecu will just accept whatever voltage the sensor outputs (normally between 0-5v) if the ecu doesn't see sensor feedback at all that's when it will throw a code.

 

Temp sensors are not a 0-5v but rather of the RTD or thermocouple variety which neither of these will give you 0-5v like a boost sensor. So it either relies on the resistance of the wire, or it is measuring millivolts of difference for the given temperature.

 

I had the same problem I was told that the IC pump was going bad and to get a Johnson pump to cure my problem. So I spent $170 got the pump, installed it and...you guessed it, same problem.
Woody told me to move the heat exchanger higher up into the air flow. I did that and have been problem free ever since. That includes while running stacked pulleys.
Might be worth a try. Worked for me and it's free!

 

After posting yeasterday , I checked the fuse. It looks good. I didn't put a meter on it yet, but will later on. I think I will check the wiring next. I used crimp on connectors and thought they had a good bite, but I may rework the connection and solder everything. It may very well be a bad connection since the boost quit all at once like someone turning off a switch and never kicked back in. We'll see.-Rusty

 

yes, sir, that sounds like no power....good luck

 

Just thought i would add that ive got the same thing happing to me right now.. When the car is cool, or has cooled down, theres insane power. But once it warms up, its got "ok" power.

I just havent had the time to order the IC pump, and intake temp sensor. But will replace both at the same time when i do the work. (plus ill be seperating the intercooler at the same time.
This whole ic/temp powerloss thing i beleive must be a age thing and not so much a milage thing. Looks like many have had ic pump falilures and temp sensors go all at different times and different milage. I only have 6800 miles on mine, and its time to replace.

 

yeah, it seems to be a pump problem at low mileage...mine had a sensor problem early on, but they replaced the pump before the warranty was up, so I don't know how long this bosch will last. I was going to install the johnson on the coupe, but decided to wear out the original pump first....it's not a hard replacement once it starts to go...so, tight wad here is just saving money....

 

Oh, they use that kind? eh, yea those could go bad and you wont really know it unless you test for it.

We always use powered sensors for our apps, quicker response.

 

Sik SRT-6....When you replace the pump and the sensor on your car, could you do them one at a time, and test in between, so it can be determined which was the culprit? I would really be interested in hearing your results.-Rusty

 

No prob.

I do hope to get the pump and sensor done this year before the snow hits the ground and the car is stored.

 

I'm in the same boat, sorta. I bought a 05 SRT 'n noticed the extreme lack of power after 10mins of driving. I checked out this forum 'n did some research 'n decided to buy a Johnson pump for the cure... didn't work. Then I took it back to the dealership 'n they replaced my cooler & temp sensor. I still have the same problem. Later I checked out the fuse... which appeared to be fine.

I more or less accepted the problem and moved on. (as sad as that sounds)
I'm fairly naive when it comes to cars to a certain extent... however I replaced the IC pump myself with no problem (or at least I assume so... I'm very experienced in wiring electronic devices, so I doubt I screwed up the connections to the pump) Is "moving the heat exchanger" something I could do on my own without taking everything apart?
I'm willing to try anything that doesn't include me losing more $$

I've been told that prayer works... but I'm not quite to that point yet.

 

Yer gonna have to take some things apart so you can access the HE and the area in front of the radiator. When I moved my HE higher into the air flow I simply disconnected the HE from its brackets and raised the HE as high as the existing hoses allowed me to. I then zip tied the HE into position. You will find that the drivers side of the HE will go higher as the hoses restrict the amount of movement on the passenger side. Put things back together and see if it helps.

Another thing to consider is separating the cooling systems. Another free mod.

 

If you installed the pump yourself - disconnect the "hotwire" going to the pump and leave the ground wire alone.

Make a jumper wire and connect one end to the positive lead on the battery and the other to the positive lead wire gong to the pump.

Listen to hear if the pump runs.. If it runs - squeeze the output hose to see if coolant is flowing... could be you didn't prime the pump with coolant and perhaps it burned up??

If your IC was leaking - you would have an obvious low coolant level and possible a sputtering engine.

If all is OK - then change you IAT sensor - $30 and 15 minutes