I have read many articles on additional power and the one below is pretty interesting. I would like to know has stated below if I add a CAI how much HP I will increase and then if I had a 185 pulley do I get an additional increase of HP or do I caculate both increases?

I know a lot of you guys have experience with these so if you have a few minutes to answer it would greatly be appreciated.

First upgrade should be the CAI, Cold Air Intake. This is a simple mod to do that has about the biggest HP increase of any mod available to date. I'd recommend the Sprint Booster next if it wasn't done first. The next biggest power booster is the Pulley. The 178mm should give about 25 HP increase and the 181mm 30 HP. The big 185mm should be good for about 35 HP to the wheels. The H/E and IC Pump upgrade will help keep the intercooler temps from rising out of control and causing the ECU to retrard the timing and pull boost. Plugs and Wires might help everything run just a bit smoother, but HP increases are still undetermined. The Tune: IMHO I don't think the money spent on a tune is worth the money they are asking. I wouldn't recommend any tune other than the lowest priced ones that are currently available, InMotion or SpeedInnovation. In the coming months I think more and better ECU tunes will be available. The Schrick Cams will provide some HP increase, but at about $1800 or so for a set and then maybe 6 hours of shop labor to install them, they are the biggest dollar mod available. HP gain, maybe 10-15. Dyno's are to scarce to be accurate.



1. CAI = ?? HP
2. Sprint Booster
3a. H/E = ?? HP
3b. IC Pump = ?? HP
3c. Intake spacers
3d. 185 Thermostat
4. Pulley = ?? HP
5. Plugs/Wires
6. Headers/ Exhaust = ?? HP
7. ECU Tune = ?? HP
8. Pumkin Upgrade = ?? HP
9. Schrick Cams = ?? HP
10. Throttle Body Port and Polish
11. Intake Runner Port and Polish
12. Supercharger Port and Polish
13. Y Coupling Port and Polish

 

Ben, there are hours of reading on here about what to expect with each mod, and everyone has an opinion. I went the easiest route I could and still keeping the car looking stock. Everything on the list above will make HP or improve performance, and that is what you are after. The numbers to me, don't mean anything. I have raced bigger numbers and won...so, to me, it doesn't matter, but your setup matters...you have to be able to put the HP to wheels, then to the track...if you do that, then you will do well....good luck with your modding, but again, you can't go wrong with any of those mods mentioned...but if you need a number to the wheels...after all that...probably in the 370 area...

 

1. CAI = ?? HP--------------------needswings 25 to 35
2. Sprint Booster------------0 but the hp gets to wheels faster
3a. H/E = ?? HP ---------0 but lets the hp get to the wheels
3b. IC Pump = ?? HP------------0
3c. Intake spacers------------------5 to 7
3d. 185 Thermostat-------0 but feels like it does
4. Pulley = ?? HP------SC =25-----178=24----181=26------185=31
5. Plugs/Wires------------=0
6. Headers/ Exhaust = ?? HP----------needswings= 20
7. ECU Tune = ?? HP-----------25 t0 30
8. Pumkin Upgrade = ?? HP can't do it.
9. Schrick Cams = ?? HP-----------?
10. Throttle Body Port and Polish-----2 to 4
11. Intake Runner Port and Polish---don't have them get the needswings intake manifolds =30
12. Supercharger Port and Polish---------- can't do it
13. Y Coupling Port and Polish-------------- get the teflon coated one from needswings= 5

total about 100 hp gain but at the wheels you may have 185 to 190,,,,, jim

 

My srt6 has the sc pulley,ec tune dyno, and larger MB dual intake , no muffler. Dyno at 354 rwhp

 

yep that is about right 254 at the wheels gives you right at 285 at the crank and the car came with 330 at the crank. jim

 

And to just re-iterate what has been told to Ben3361 in another post where he was asking about HP gains. Texas T has a documented 354 RWHP on a given Dyno (DynoJet is my guess), on a given day with a given atmospheric condition and temperature, at a given elevation. Just as you can take 2 identical stock SRT's to the same Dyno on the same day, you will likely find that the HP is different between the 2, different SRTs will produce different results with different modifications.

You can check around on the internet, and will find different variances reported, but the median that I see with the difference between the Mustang and DynoJet Dynos is about 12 to 15 percent difference, with DynoJet giving the highest reading. So, if you want more HP just make sure you get dyno'd with a DynoJet.

I do understand what you are trying to get at, but just understand that everything is just a best guess. And if you are lucky enough to live in an area where you routinely have -800 to -1000 DA's you will have much more HP than someone that routinely has 1500 to 2000 DA's. (I really hate the 100 Degree + days with 98% humidity we have most all summer long here.)

While all of our friends up north are now making preparations to put their XFires to rest for the winter, I am just now getting to the point that I can start enjoying driving it again.

 

great info amx1397, Thanks

may I ask what DA's means -800 to -1000 DA's in Bmorgan's text.

I live in Montreal Quebec which goes from 100F in summer to -40F in winter some of the worst temperature changes anywhere in the world!

 

sure,, it means density at altitude ( pressure at sea level, or pressure at 4000' above sea level.)
go to this DA Calculator - Density Altitude Calculator - DragTimes.com

 

Great tool, my DA for today is -56

 

im not sure who posted the info in your blue colored text. i have to wholeheartedly disagree with his opinion on the tunes. run a 181 or 185 pulley with intakes and no tune and you might want to have a spare engine on hand cause it wont be long before you grenade yours.
when modifying these ecu controlled cars the tune is most likely THE MOST CRITICAL PART of the modding process.
if anyone doubts it cruise the e55,c32 forums and see what happened to those that modded and didnt tune. as for getting the cheapest tune it is better than none but now real time driving tunes and dynos are the best way to most out of your mods and engine.

 

Be sure to communicate very, very well with your tuner about the DA in your area. Your tuner will have to be careful that your tune does not go lean when your in those conditions. Most of the rest of us will never see anything like that. If your tune is dialed in at say 1000' above sea level conditions and then you run it WOT in those conditions there is a chance of leaning out pending on what AFR's were tuned initially. Small detail to take into consideration.

 

Another note about ECU tunes:
Their value depends on how heavily you mod your engine!

If you're just adding a Code3 or 178mm pulley and a cold air intake, an ECU tune is not worth the money.

But once you start greatly modifying the amount of air your engine can draw, you'll get beyond what the stock programming can adjust for, and potentially blow your motor.

So draw a line after the cold air intake and Code3 or 178mm pulley. If you don't go any further, don't bother with the tune. If you add intake manifolds, polished Y-pipe, etc. etc. etc. Then definitely get the tune. If you go larger on the pulley: get the tune. You get the idea.

 

tom i think thats some inaccurate info your giving here. running any pulley with a setup like a dual cai really leans a engine out. the tune is critical to ensure detonation and lean conditions are addresed. you may not feel it while driving but it doesnt takemany lean runs to cook a motor. my 32 was running bad lean with homemade intake mods and a c3 pulley. my intake wasnt flowing anywere near robs dual cai flows and i was running lean. the tune fixed it.
the line should be drawn at stock. anything after that should req. datalogging and adjustments based on the engine logs.

 

Here's a good link you can use for reference. We ran a Dyno run after every mod.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-results.html

 

32Krazy,

Could it be the SRT6 with its more conservative tune can handle a dual CAI, a 178 and a polished Y with no tune?

 

im sure its possible but looking at the flow # that rob posted on the dual cai and the inc boost that a c3 can push in cooler weather imo a tune is mandatory. your ingesting what almost 300 cfm more than stock airbox and inc boost by almost 3 to 4 psi. thats a lot for an ecu to adapt to.
think of it this way, a new replacement engine for a slk32(srt-6) is $36,000. people drop thousands on mods and cool looking stuff but datalogging equip. is typically the last thing they buy. when modding logging is critical and the only way to truly know if you need tuning or not. i did the same as most others and didnt log, then 3 55 engines blew up in just a few months apart and my logging started!

 

I do all my testing, practicing with roadster until the coupe is tuned....I just install things on the coupe, and do short drives for now, nothing all out until everything is installed...then the tune to bring it all together....

 

Whoah now guys. I'm just talking a single CAI and a conservative pulley (not the 181 or larger). You definitely need a tune if you go further than that. I'm nt talking about intake manifolds, y-pipes, big honking pullies or anything like that. I thought I made that clear, but evidently not.

Now I don't have the datalogs to back this up because I didn't have my dashdaq/zeitronix installed at that point. So I can't prove anything. But according to Rob @ NeedsWings, the additional air you're dumping into the engine with a Code3 or 178 pulley and a single CAI is "well within the tolerances of the stock ECU to adjust and compensate for". Believe me, I picked Rob's brain and Eurocharged before I did any mods. Both told me the same thing: a tune get me more power, but I wouldn't hurt anything not having it.

I raced a whole drag season with just the Code3 and a single NeedsWings CAI - no tune - and I didn't pop any codes or see any evidence of running lean. In fact, judging from my tail pipes and how dirty they got, I would say I was running rich.