The dealer fixed my transmission under the power train warranty.It was $150 for the new transmission plate ,and they went ahead and put a new filter and changed the tranny fluid while they were in there.Too bad I had done the transmission service just a few thousand miles ago. Now its been done twice should be good for a long time .

 

Sorry if this is a double post....

About this "conductor Plate"
I changed the tranny fluid with MB spec 236.10
thought it might get rid of the slight...."hard shift" between 1-2, 2-3. Its not annoying but still not MB smooth.
What actually happens to the speed sensors anyways? oil contamination? Whats the root cause here....I guess I'm asking the 5 whys....?????

For $200+post I thought its probably worth while and looking at the vid - although I would be doing it upside down....looks like semi DIY.

 

Another issue is the use of +/- on my stick.
Whilst stopped, the +/- can slip quickly between gears - seeming to even miss 2 and 3 on its way to 4 even though I only pressed the + once from 1st.
ame on the way down.
I havent quite gotten used to the +/- shifting yet.

Any comments?

 

Hi, It Turned out to be the transmission control unit.. £700 later its all working fine. Thanks for all the replies and advice offered.

 

ouch 700!....
SO I'm looking at getting a conductor plate....here...
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
and then maybe the more expensive fix...the TCM.
Any cheap sources for the TCM?
Any DIY's?

 

So I thought I'd post on this thread to keep the issue compartmentalized. I just got my crossfire running and pulled onto the road, everything fine for a sec. then started having shifting issues. The car went into limp mode as was stuck in 1st gear I believe. It gave an engine code of P0715 turbine/input shaft speed sensor circuit. Having a hard time tracking this issue in the service manual. Really don't want to drive it to a shop like this either. This thread said the plate was the problem but doesn't seem clear if it's a DIY or something a shop needs to do.

 

Try a tranny reset. Scan for codes before, clear and scan after.
Search this BBS to find procedure - pretty simple I recall - not sure if its the same as throttle body reset.

With that code, could be the plate - Replacement is a DIY, but not for the absolute beginner = medium level of difficulty with high attention to cleanliness = not an outdoor driveway job unless very careful and no wind/breeze.
Its one step further than a tranny filter replacement and oil change.
If you think of the filter placement as ....X, Y, Z....remove * and replace filter......Z, Y, X
Then the conductor plate (few screws) sits in between "remove" and " and replace filter". see asterix*

Relatively low cost if DIY - compared to taking it to a shop and you start paying for their experimentation cost - which you may still have to do to diagnose further if the plate change isn't successful.

Keep in mind you should factor in 8 or so qrts of MB spec tranny fluid which can go for $10-15 a qrt.

 

Thanks for the response. I think I can definitely accomplish that. First I need a damn tranny dipstick so I can check the fluid level. I think I saw a post here with a link to a plate, hopefully it's not a dead link now

 

kit : 722.6 Transmission Conductor Plate+Filter+Connector+Gasket KIT for Mercedes Benz | eBay

Fluid :

 

Thanks! Just ordered a kit, the oil and a dipstick. I'll let yall know how it goes. Is it possible to reset the TCM by disconnecting the battery? I have a OBDII scan tool that can clear the P0715 but don't think it works on the TCM.

 

I don't know for certain, but I certainly doubt it.

I's worth a try though, what could it hurt

 

I use a piece of that elastic white curtain wire with a 50-80mm mark for a dipstick.
Should invest shouldnt I....;>)

 

I double checked info on the tranny reset.
Some say its an urban myth snake oil procedure - but worth a try.
I convinced myself it worked to fix an intermittent fault on my SLK230 722.6 pre electronic shift 1999 tranny.
Here was my procedure....although I have it titled as a throttle reset....
1. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
3. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Don’t remove the Key. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.

and I used it on my SLK230 1999.
Don't think I've had cause to use on my SLK32.

And here is a link to add some weight to the idea it works - someone actually wen to the trouble of making a page for it - other have also.....
Click here

 

After I perform the replacement of the electronic valve plate and the connector I will definitely do this. I removed the connector last night to find it soaked with tranny fluid. It had definitely worked it's way up the wire bundle into the car and down into the connector on the tcm. Used a good amount of contact cleaner on it.

 

yes - unfortunately a common failing of the 722.6

 

Do 2004s not have a tranny drain plug? Mine looks like it does but it doesn't. Irs just a odd molding into the oan that looks like a drain bolt. Do I just have to drain it by dropping the whole pan?

 

I don't know, but I did my 2005 with an evacuator ( TopSider ), no need to mess with the drain plug.

 

Just finished replacing the plate in the transmission. Tried the reset trick but it must not work on fault codes and limp mode. I'll be taking it into the stealership to have then use their reader. Maybe they'll get a fault code for my short in the BCM circuit at the same time.

 

Dealer just called me back. When they went to work my car they realized they don't have the right scan tool/connector/cable combo to work this car! So I had it towed to them for nothing. And they (the Chrsyler dealership) doesn't know of anyone local that has the tool. So I have my car just sitting there unable to drive, needing a complete remap of the computers and no options currently in front of me. I'm on the phone with corporate to see if there is some solution they can come up with.


Any Ideas? Thanks

 

Update. I towed the car to another dealer in another city that has the tool. The cleared the transmission codes and it shifts like new. No remapping needed. Just a clearing of the codes. Which they basically did for free since they included it in the labor for replacing my belt and idler pulley.