I did notice it, but I've had a pump fail straight out of the box before.

 

I believe he already stated that the AIT's were fine, which would eliminate the pump, right?

 

The OP stated, "My IAT were fine (90 degrees)", which would exclude the pump, right?

 

IAT's are fine. Running a few degrees higher with the new pulley (more boost, but only 25-30 degrees above ambient. 90-95 degrees.

 

My recommendation is to install a wideband and report back. In the meantime, keep your foot out of it. The owner of Eurocharged just basically asked you to do the same, so the ball is in your court.

 

I was planning on the wideband. Which one do yall recommend? I know NW has the zeitronix zt-2. I've got an old xp laptop I could use. On a very limited budget due to medical so I've been piecing things together the best I can.

 

Give me an hour or so and I should be able to find a good deal for you.

 

over 3 yrs ago guys running a 181 pulley were maxing out the fuel pump and running lean. oem pulley gets you 14 psi, 181 bumps 20 psi. with out a proper tune and fuel you will pop that motor if you keep running wot. its well known the 181 , 185 pulleys need to be tuned before running wot and tuning without enough fuel wont work. ask xray about the tuning session in atl in 09. 181 maxed out and no tuning done could fix it. had to design robs adj fuel kit to get him right. others just stuck a sl55 fuel pump in and they are fine.

if i have said it once i have said a thousand times, if your gonna mod you gotta log!! 50$ for a O2 bung and a simple wideband will save you a ton of heartache

 

Innovate is the best A/F setup on the market and this is the best price I could find. This is the same unit I'm using.

Innovate MTX-L Digital Wideband Air Fuel Gauge Kit 3844 | eBay

 

Checking it out...Thanks...

 

all this assumes your manifold gaskets are holding at the new higher pressures
when mine were faulty it would run like crazy to a point 5k or so and fall flat for a few seconds
and as i found out it can be found w pressure, not smoke, and removed the phenolics, and placed new gaskets

 

Your negetive fuel trim is telling you the problem. I would triple check for air leaks, a cracked spacer between the the T.B. and the snout, leaky manifold gaskets, the hose connections behind the intercooler, the pcv connection under the T.B. I would also try removing the DIY intake and checking your trims again, it could be a restriction (just to be sure).

Negetive fuel trim means it's pulling fuel at idle, then it's applying this and leaning you out at WOT. Be careful.

 

If there was an air leak, wouldn't more air make it in, causing the pcm to add fuel by way of positive trims?

 

Seems odd to have too much fuel after installing a CAI and 181 pulley, don't it?? Eliminate the easy stuff first!

 

I just started monitoring mine and on occasion I'm getting some neg short term trims, but I'm running very fat in open loop. Not trying to start an argument, I'm just trying to follow along.

 

It's cool, me too! OP, just double check the easy stuff, and then get the right tune.

 

I think it's your tune, you're probably hitting the torque limiter and need Eurocharged to remove it. I had a similar issue and Jerry got rid of it.

 

Got my tune today. It went very smoothly taking maybe 20 minutes. Good news and bad news. The car is a beast down low. Throttle response and torque is incredible. Day and night difference. Bad news, the car is still shutting down at 5000rpm.

I'm going to get a wideband installed.

Asked Jerry about what could be going on and he suggested getting on a dyno. I might call around tomorrow to see who I can find around here.

I tested the the fuel rail pressure this evening. I've got a good Snap On Fuel Pressure test kit. Taped the gauge to the windshield (don't recommend unless you know what your doing) and did a couple of runs under load. The pressure was 62 psi at idle, and 62psi under load until the car cuts out at 5000rpm. Jerry emailed me that the pressure should be 80-85 until 5000 rpm and 65-70psi after 5000rpm. I thought the srt-6 factory manual states 55-60 static. Don't think it lists under load.

I've got to find out the AFR's, I don't want to run the car any more without the safety of a wideband.

I keep feeling the issue of a torque limiter setting that some have mentioned may be at play here. I emailed about that as well.

 

You can drive all you want, just don't floor it. My experience is that the tail pipe sniffer the dyno shops use are accurate. Maybe a 1/10th difference from the wideband. So get on a dyno and you'll have the answer. I like having the wideband. I confirmed the accuracy of the dyno sniffer and after having it for a while know how the AFR's act at part throttle, under cold and hot conditions. Knowing what's normal is comforting. Modding can be heart stopping. Be calm, patient, and do what needs to be done. I'm happy now but was tramatized in the beginning too.

Les

 

Actually, I'm enjoying working out the problems. Last year at this time, I was cuffed to the bed on a ventilator with tubes in every orifice imaginable after having 11 cancer surgeries. Didn't think I would be here. I'll take working out a hot rodding problem anyday. Really am enjoying getting back to myself.

I have been reading a couple of posta on the "transmission torque limiter". It seems a few have had this issue pop up. Usually at a higher level than what my car is at but it does happen. A few have had it disabled by Jerry and it cured their "hitting the brick wall" that I'm experiencing. I wonder why this isn't disabled in every tune. It would definitely be nice to fix my problem with one setting but I do want the safety of the wideband.