Yes, you can fit a 305 30 19 on the back no problem, Im sure you can get a 305 30 19 on a stock rim, i have 295 30 ps2 on the back and it works great

 

Does it already have the paddle shifters installed? If not, I would say that should be at the top of the list, so you can feel like you have at least a little control over the shifting

 

Biggest problem you willhave John, is the apparent uselessness of the right hand. As for the Click click, you willhave to find a new place to put the right hand as you will inadvertently shift because you are used to holding on tothe shifter for balance.

fortuntely, the SRT seats fill in for that and once you get used to that securet grab on your backside, you will no longer confuse the Tranny.

Still, from time to time I try to put Crumpys into third gear and end up in nuetral (because at 40 MPH it won't go into reverse thank goodness) But you don't have Oldttimer's disease as yet.

Graphite is the coolest color of the SRT choices. My favorite image was a Monday morning behind SRT6Tulsa on the Hellbender. Leave blowing and his graphite wing just flying in front of me.

 

Congrats John, enjoy the power....

 

Congrat.'s John, from the Left Coast. In the posts from you that I have read; the SRT6 does seem to be the better fit for you. I'll enjoy hearing your Mod updates; have fun!

 

Did you get the stock set up with the car?


John, I know you will like the change when you get used to banging on that shifter without the use of the left foot...as the left foot is usually busy trying to keep you stable in the seat...lol

 

I'll get a tune some time, I have the cable. That's as far as I'll go, I think.

 

I meant, did you get teh stock CAI with the car. You mentioned putting it back to stock.

 

Sorry I misunderstood, yes I got that, looks mint almost. I do not like the bare engine look too much, maybe the CAI and another cover is what I'll end up with.

I am working on improving the sealing around the wing mounting panel at the moment to get rid of the standing water traps it has due to seal movement.

I have four months () to fix that and the WW fluid level sensor. While I'm fixing the WW sensor is it worth putting in the Johnson pump and replace the OEM pump that was replaced under warranty at some time in the last couple of years. Jake80 gave me that Johnson as well.

 

if you are in there, I would replace it...

 

Thanks again everyone for the support!

I have driven a stock SRT before, but only on a test drive and that was years ago. So, jumping from a Limited to something with nearly double the horsepower is truly an eye-opener.

As for the rolling stock, I will likely go with 245/35/18 front and 285/30/19 rear.

I ran that rear size for over a year on my white one and LOVED it.

On the fronts, I plan on running wider rubber, and less drop this time around. On my Limited, I had nearly 2" of drop but I was running 225/40/18 on an 8.5" wide rim to make the drop work. The SRT isn't exactly on stilts, and handles quite well given its height. A wider tire with a 30mm lowering spring (H&R, Vogtland) should be a nice balance between drop and performance. I do plan to have slightly more positive camber this time around... Last car was -2.0° in the front, -1.3° in the rear. Shooting for -1.8/.8° this time... better wear over the long run, and more straight-line grip with a flatter rear footprint.

I plan to use Hankook V12s on all four corners. Not getting into drag radials, CLK rims and all that stuff. I like racing in the configuration I use on the street. Then, you truly know how your car feels at the limits, so when you approach those limits on the Dragon-type roads, you know when to dial it back. If you only experience the limits on Hoosiers, you will be in the habit of reacting much later than you can on street compound. Late reactions and adjustments = bad news.

Paddle shifters will be installed once I get my Startech wheel back from the color-change operation

 

You still haven't experienced the @$$ end stepping out, I see. The SRT-6 is not as well mannered in the turns because of that extra HP and torque trying to come around. Go fat on the rear tires(295+) so you won't regret it later. A slight correction from someone straying into my lane on a 90 degree left-hander sent the car onto the curb(TC kicked in just before I nailed a guardrail), damaging nearly 70% of my right rear rim. The car would most likely not have broken loose with something wider than 255s on the back. Hell, it scares Kim around corners, and you know she ain't skeered of twisties! lol

 

Congrats! I know we all cant wait to see it come together... sounds as though you're already enjoying it quite a bit

 

ENJOY THE POWER AND YOUR NEW RIDE.
"ILLCYA" LARRY

 

Congrats on your "Dream Car" John! Mines still the Tesla..lol. Gotta admit hearing you rave about your new toy has me really excited about the upcoming turbo mod since it's being guestimated at near stock SRT performance. Hoping things can come together and go play with you guys at the dragon! I'll take the old folks run since I will be a newbie to it.

EDIT: Testarossa not Tesla.. thats what i get for going through old cd's last night..

 

I second that. I cannot wait for these Hankooks to wear out. I have no traction and it is even worse with the SC pulley upgrade. It was so bad at the Dragon that I could not shake Danimal off my tail in the twisties. Chuk, with the bigger tires, are there any other mods that I would need to do the rear? Camber adjustment?

 

guys bigger tires will help some but its not the fix all for the twitchy back end of the car. the wavetrac is what you need. the open diff combined with the t/c is what gets the car out of whack. with the lsd the back end still comes out under power but the wavetrac allows for both wheels to stay under power without the t/c kicking in. its a more predictable slide and easily controllable. at the dragon i could feel the back end wanting to break loose but with the lsd i could stay in the power and countersteer without fear of the t/c fighting me. made for a wonderful weekend

 

I would try and keep close to the stock stagger if possible. In other words, up the front width to go along with the wider rears. To maintain the rear civilized I've found -.8º camber and 1/8" toe in (total) to be kosher with 285's. I've never tried less negative camber or more toe in but I've tried everything in the opposite direction. My car is lowered quite a bit and I need to get some adjustable sway bar links made. As it stands the bar has lots of preload and I imagine all the lowered Crossfires do too. I mention the bar preload because I believe it affects the rear grip in the corners. Speaking to track junkies with adjustable sways, they tell me softening the rear adds rear grip so a "tight" rear should result in a loose rear. Food for thought. The biggest problem I had with the open diff at the track was spinning the inside wheel and traction control intervention.

Les

 

Lighter foot, and steering input helps a bunch. Watch how the F1 boys run around Monaco. (closest thing to the dragon) Look at how many small adjustments they make to the steering wheel as they go around each turn.

 

John, glad to see that you got your new 6..... they really are too much fun..... if you go with 285's in back you have to choose between the 30 and 35 profile... I went with the 35 for more sidewall but that meant I had to put taller spring spacer pads to stop a slight rubbing with the 19x9.5 ET35 AMG 810 wheels. The 35 profile is 26.8" tall.....

Welcome to the club and ENJOY!!