EC SC pulley - noise when engine cool
Originally Posted by onehundred80
The fit on the shaft was tighter on the EC pulley bearing, and it would not result in any cocking, The looser fit on the C3 bearing was easier to assemble.
Any cocking would be a result of the bearing not being pressed in square to the axis.
Any cocking would be a result of the bearing not being pressed in square to the axis.
Originally Posted by BLACKSRT-6
Your opinion and not what I noted during installation.
Originally Posted by BLACKSRT-6
You would need to install one to understand! 

If there was a 1/4" clearance it would fall on, but if there was .0005" clearance you would think it would not go on as it would co ck and lock diagonally until there was sufficient engagement to slide on parallel.
Depending on the width of the part and the diameter, that is the ratio of one to the other, the engagement required to slide would be different. A narrow width and a large diameter will co ck and jamb all the way until it seats and the less clearance there is the worse it is to get on. A thin lubricant helps the situation by keeping the parts separated by the oil film.
Many shafts have a diameter a few thou less at the start to get the other component started. You have probably seen this and realized at the time what it was for.
PS I found you can't use the word co ck. As they say on Top Gear, Oh co ck!
Last edited by onehundred80; Mar 22, 2012 at 07:20 PM.
Originally Posted by BLACKSRT-6
Third, the material used by EC did not rust, my early C3 pulley rusted up quickly after install.
Originally Posted by dinasrt
I have had mine installed now for a couple of months and I'm already seeing surface rust on the 3 rivet heads and the 3 protruding pins. Would stainless steel have been better there? Perhaps there is a good reason why they used what they did, but they are rusting. I'll keep the rivets buffed and coated with a dab of some kind of product for protection. What would hold up and be good to use there for that? I'm very curious to know what part they're replacing in the pulley for you.
**on a side not the pulley just to the left of the SC pulley is starting to make a higher pitched noise, a squirt of WD40 on the backside and it goes away immediately. time to replace that pulley? looks fine but at idle with the windows down it bugs me
Last edited by jsaredwings; Mar 25, 2012 at 03:26 PM.
Originally Posted by jsaredwings
mine has rust on those spots as well, put it on before winter and then the car went into storage. maybe 1500 miles on it since install. the difference is spacing i commented about earlier is gone. im guessing the springs in the plate are a bit weaker than the stock ones and at the time is just wasnt equal, after driving it around it rechecked and it was fine. i believe once the RPM's get off idle it levels out.
**on a side not the pulley just to the left of the SC pulley is starting to make a higher pitched noise, a squirt of WD40 on the backside and it goes away immediately. time to replace that pulley? looks fine but at idle with the windows down it bugs me
**on a side not the pulley just to the left of the SC pulley is starting to make a higher pitched noise, a squirt of WD40 on the backside and it goes away immediately. time to replace that pulley? looks fine but at idle with the windows down it bugs me
https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...m/P1010310.JPG
Originally Posted by jsaredwings
so that pulley is just a tensioner/guide pulley, no purpose whatsoever? i know why you remove it just not sure why they put it there in the first place
Originally Posted by Daddy
Fubu, what ever came of this? Did the sound ever go away? I too have this pulley but have yet to install it. I was considering an exchange for the 181 or 185 if these SC pullies are not correct in design. Is there a consensus out on this pulley yet?


Originally Posted by dinasrt
I can't keep mine properly spaced. It always changes, inconsistent. I'm thinking it's weak springs, or slight binding, or both? EC hasn't responded back to me. I know others have the same issues. I'd like to resolve this issue. It is a manufacturing issue, and not EC's fault since they had others build these, but we need some resolution here; please.
Hi all, a bit of an update with my situation. I installed the pulley saver kit approximately 4 weeks ago and since then, havent heard the noise return.
I have had some clearance issues with the sc pulley since day one. It appears to stick with no clearance. I can push it and move it around to get back to the correct clearance. I now have several shims installed ,and will check it. Drive a few days check it again, and the clearance is different or gone.It appears to stick a bit. I believe the pulley fits too tight. When I first did the install it was so tight I could barely get it on the sc shaft. Right now it is working the best that it has. At least there is always some gap even though one time its a lot (.30+) .The next time its close (.10). The other weird thing since the tune.When I have the a/c on the idle jumps up and down by 300 rpm. Before the tune it was smooth as silk. I turn the a/c off and its fine again. As far as driving the car is a beast and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to the red line.
I have had some clearance issues with the sc pulley since day one. It appears to stick with no clearance. I can push it and move it around to get back to the correct clearance. I now have several shims installed ,and will check it. Drive a few days check it again, and the clearance is different or gone.It appears to stick a bit. I believe the pulley fits too tight. When I first did the install it was so tight I could barely get it on the sc shaft. Right now it is working the best that it has. At least there is always some gap even though one time its a lot (.30+) .The next time its close (.10). The other weird thing since the tune.When I have the a/c on the idle jumps up and down by 300 rpm. Before the tune it was smooth as silk. I turn the a/c off and its fine again. As far as driving the car is a beast and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to the red line.
I assume the gaps you mention are fractions of a millimeter and not inches. This would make them .004" and .012" which would appear to be OK, sort of. If I recall correctly the gap should be between .008" to .012"?. Check these figures as Thirteendog has said I'm too old and I guess he figures I am failing mentally.
It has been noted before that the spring is thinner and weaker than the OEM spring.
Last edited by onehundred80; Apr 26, 2012 at 06:29 PM.
P1010382.JPGP1010382.JPG
I finally got fed up with trying to keep this pulley spaced properly so I removed it and took some pic,'s. Please analyze away. 180,blacksrt also, what do you think? Something is seriously wrong here. It's like the springs are in backward, and binding. I could easily pull the plate away from the pulley(as you can see in the pic.), and there it stays. If I push it back down hard to the back flange of the pulley, it springs back up a small bit. This is the opposite of what it is suppose to do! The OEM plate is extremely difficult to pull away from the pulley and pulls back with major spring strength(as it should be). 

Exactly what I noticed, spring tension appears weak. EC has had CJ's pulley for a month, still waiting on the replacement. CJ has had a tough time lately getting EC to respond.
Attachment 25257Attachment 25257
I finally got fed up with trying to keep this pulley spaced properly so I removed it and took some pic,'s. Please analyze away. 180,blacksrt also, what do you think? Something is seriously wrong here. It's like the springs are in backward, and binding. I could easily pull the plate away from the pulley(as you can see in the pic.), and there it stays. If I push it back down hard to the back flange of the pulley, it springs back up a small bit. This is the opposite of what it is suppose to do! The OEM plate is extremely difficult to pull away from the pulley and pulls back with major spring strength(as it should be).


I finally got fed up with trying to keep this pulley spaced properly so I removed it and took some pic,'s. Please analyze away. 180,blacksrt also, what do you think? Something is seriously wrong here. It's like the springs are in backward, and binding. I could easily pull the plate away from the pulley(as you can see in the pic.), and there it stays. If I push it back down hard to the back flange of the pulley, it springs back up a small bit. This is the opposite of what it is suppose to do! The OEM plate is extremely difficult to pull away from the pulley and pulls back with major spring strength(as it should be).

Last edited by onehundred80; Apr 26, 2012 at 06:30 PM. Reason: I forgot pin location, and noticed too late.



