i have been working with a great shop in hobe sound florida and he built this amazing true 178mm fluidamper crank pulley for me. heres a short video and a pic for now. more details as the tuning progresses and i try to make it to the track. man chasing grip isnt easy!!
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Steve, where are the pics of it before install????

 

i cant get it to load mike. i/b says my foto allotment is full even though i deleted every pic i had on here before. ill try to load like i did the video

here you go! if you right click it you can open it in another window and expand it to get a great look at the pulley. patrick did a great job and it turns super true. he told me it had .002 radial runout

 

I like that they put the holes in for the wrench...... would sure save a lot of grief if my LET had them....

those sway bar links and camber arms will work better if you put them on the car......

 

i know! the thing is the skinny front drag radials rub in the turn without lowering. if i drop it the rub would be massive. what you dont see are the kmac kit the b&g springs to go with the parts you made!

the ability to take the stress off the keyway during the torque sequence along with the fluid damper system is why i chose this type. if it ever quits raining ill take a spin and see how lean i went. then its on to tuning and hopefully the track by next weekend

 

It's pretty, but why not use the ASP 178 pulley? It's the same size, has the holes for the tool, etc. .. because it's not a Fluidamper? Certainly you can figure a way to get the skinny's to work. I have a 255 on the front and I don't rub, now.

Les

 

thats a huge reason les and honestly it is also substantially cheaper. another difference is that most pulleys are measured from the top of the grooves so the 178 is actually a tad bit smaller. this measured as a true 178 from the bottom of the grooves. the skinnys up front are on c63 ccw rims so the offset puts them at the edge of the fender lip. dropping it will only make it harder to turn off the track when done. ill be selling my drag setup at timmayfest in a month and building a new set so ill be able to drop it then


i spent the last few months working on some new projects (fuel rail, injectors, fluidamper pulley ) to try to keep interest in modding the 3.2 s/c engine. in the future works are a killer chiller kit for the engine and a 80mm or 82mm t/b that would be a great inc in power. some will buy some wont but i have a ball working with grip grip and the new shops ( tuning technology motorsports, pte engineering and a few others) and spending the weekends trying to beat that dang grip!! ( i think he would run fast if he had a horse and buggy!)

 

I can understand the $ reason. I'm interested in keeping the modding alive too. My next project, in the planning stage, is to make the ride harder and more unpleasant. (spherical bearings) I'm still waiting for the header update ........ and waiting ........ your not surprised are you? To beat Grip you need more grip. Lack of weight transfer is a problem. Have you tired silly things like disconnecting the front sway bar or putting real soft springs in the rear? I want more power but at the same time know I need to figure out how to get the most out of what I already have first. Hence a bit of suspension trial and error is cooking.

Les

 

no issue with hook. the dr's launch at 1800 rpm with little to no spin. the need is more torque. he kills me off the line 1.9 for me 1.7 or .8 for him. the stacked setup he has brings the torque on like crazy.
i run the konis full soft up front to transfer the weight thewn full hard in the rear to keep it there. im thinking a sack of cement in his cabin to slow him down!

as for the headers i havent heard a word from alex about my refund. didnt expect to. ill find another way to get there. dont hold your breath!

 

As an experiment for me, put the rear full soft and the front full hard. The Koni adjustment *** only affects the compression so the front is inconsequential. You want the rear to compress easily ... I think. My best 1/4 time was with my jack and tool box in the back of the car. Go figure.

Les

 

This has always been my understanding as well. You want the rear to compress easily, to shift the weight bias rearward. Rebound is unaffected.

Steve, that's why I was confused that one day at BG when you said you were running full-firm in the rear... since the Koni shocks only adjust for compression, you're essentially preventing the weight from transferring to the rear. The logic of "the shocks are pressing the tires into the pavement harder" doesn't wash in a 3,400 pound car with a 57/43 weight bias... haha.

One way to find out -- go full soft, and do a run. Crank them up to super-firm, launch at the same RPM, and compare 60' times.

 

if the rear is set to soft then the power transfer the body to compress and then compress again thru the shifts. not what i want. i want the power to transfer to the rear and stay there thats why im set to full still in the rear. sound advice about the fronts though

 

Just try it for us. Nothing to loose as Grip always wins anyway. (joke) I'm serious about softening the rear and not only for the 1/4 mile. When I need more rear grip getting off a corner I soften the rear shocks first, next a little less air in the tires and finally, thanks to Mike, soften the rear sway bar.

Les

I got to thinking about the weight distribution and went back to my notes and my crossweight is 50/50 with a passenger. My front to rear weight distribution is 55/45. Boy did I step in it.

 

got a short run in between the rain today. as i expected the afr is high lean and i need more timing. what i didnt expect was the massive low end grunt!! car pulls like a train right out of the box! get this thing tuned properly and man it should run! john you should hear the blower whine!!

regarding the rear compression. you have to remember john i shredded 2 new tires but the rear dropping so hard on launches it cut the sidewalls. theres no stopping the power going to the rear when the dr's hook. im trying to keep the tires from rubbing hard on the launches.

 

What did you have before the new 178? I saw a significant power increase when I swapped my Code3 for an ASP 178.

Les

 

les i didnt swap the 178 for the c3 i ADDED the 178 to the c3!

 

Steve needs to start a new "stacked" thread.

 

I think he's planning a FTGG thread in the near future. (faster than Grip Grip) If you guys figure this out and don't loose a piston .... yeah, I'll follow your example. Steve, try the dag nabed soft rear shock setting. (I'm from Tennessee, can't you tell?)

Les

 

His behavior is getting out of hand, and I will admit it's unacceptable. If he keeps it up, I will evoke the nitrous mod and crush his AMG (seriously) !

 

im a modding addict! as for you grip im what 0 for 3? i doubt the nos will be needed.