E85 conversion found!?
Niether of those will work without a Turbonator to properly spin the air for mixing!!!
LOL! That's what I did wrong then! Time to get on eBay and find me a Turbonator! 
Seriously though, the Road Race Motorsports "fuel controller" was actually a Split Second product, re-branded/relabeled, with their own custom programming pre-loaded with supposedly "optimized" settings for my Genesis Coupe. There's nothing I could see wrong with the concept. It modifies the signals in what should be a sensible manner. It's just that today's ECUs are so smart, that's not good enough by itself. It gives a temporary improvement; enough to install the box and do some dyno tests and "prove" it works. But that's about it.
Seriously though, the Road Race Motorsports "fuel controller" was actually a Split Second product, re-branded/relabeled, with their own custom programming pre-loaded with supposedly "optimized" settings for my Genesis Coupe. There's nothing I could see wrong with the concept. It modifies the signals in what should be a sensible manner. It's just that today's ECUs are so smart, that's not good enough by itself. It gives a temporary improvement; enough to install the box and do some dyno tests and "prove" it works. But that's about it.
Yeah... all of that makes sense to me too. I'm pretty sure signal modifiers aren't viable anymore for modern ECUs and all of their sensors, if you're trying to do anything having to do with enriching closed loop settings or even fooling an ECU into advancing timing based on an alternate map or maps.
I went through some of that when I had my Hyundai Genesis Coupe V6. I foolishly paid over $450 for a "fuel controller" module from a place called Road Race Motorsports. It had plug and play harness connections to place itself in front of the MAF sensor and supposedly had a custom AFR map programmed into it, so it could lean out the overly rich defaults used in the factory maps -- gaining some power and saving gas at the same time.
Sounded good on paper, except in reality? The ECU was smart enough to learn around its changes over time. Basically, it had enough other sources of data input so it could see something had changed, and after 40-50 miles of driving, the improvements the box gave you initially were always negated (until you pulled the battery terminal and forced a reset, anyway).
I've become a big believer that with today's cars, you have to re-flash the ECU (and probably also the TCU) to make any worthwhile changes. This E85 box *may* also be this way, except I think it may actually work in this scenario because they're not attempting to trick anything to improve performance. They're basically keeping the ECU "content" that it's making its own adjustments within its usual tolerances, and getting back results that tell it the adjustments had the expected results.
I went through some of that when I had my Hyundai Genesis Coupe V6. I foolishly paid over $450 for a "fuel controller" module from a place called Road Race Motorsports. It had plug and play harness connections to place itself in front of the MAF sensor and supposedly had a custom AFR map programmed into it, so it could lean out the overly rich defaults used in the factory maps -- gaining some power and saving gas at the same time.
Sounded good on paper, except in reality? The ECU was smart enough to learn around its changes over time. Basically, it had enough other sources of data input so it could see something had changed, and after 40-50 miles of driving, the improvements the box gave you initially were always negated (until you pulled the battery terminal and forced a reset, anyway).
I've become a big believer that with today's cars, you have to re-flash the ECU (and probably also the TCU) to make any worthwhile changes. This E85 box *may* also be this way, except I think it may actually work in this scenario because they're not attempting to trick anything to improve performance. They're basically keeping the ECU "content" that it's making its own adjustments within its usual tolerances, and getting back results that tell it the adjustments had the expected results.
The unit I have used is the iEMS3 (Integrated Engine Management System 3). MAP sensor voltage skewing is old school ECU manipulation, and worked pretty good before the advanced OBDII ECU's came out.
I have been successful in control of closed loop fuel AFR's by applying an O2 sensor voltage offset. The ECU sees it as a lean condition and adds fuel to bring it back to what it "thinks" is the correct 14.7 AFR. I have used this for part throttle boost fuel control while still in closed loop and it works very well. I can control AFR to within .2 to .4 of my target which is fine for light load part throttle boost on a turbo.
I have been successful in control of closed loop fuel AFR's by applying an O2 sensor voltage offset. The ECU sees it as a lean condition and adds fuel to bring it back to what it "thinks" is the correct 14.7 AFR. I have used this for part throttle boost fuel control while still in closed loop and it works very well. I can control AFR to within .2 to .4 of my target which is fine for light load part throttle boost on a turbo.
E85 requires 30% more injector pulse-width. Make sure you have 30% more inj pw headroom at all conditions (espcially the most critical one, WOT and high rpm). Ask these conversion experts if they know what the SRT-6 max injector duty cycle is and can guarantee you sufficient D.C. margin.
Hard to tell from the picture what is going on. I see two areas where the output voltage went low, but not sure if this was when the unit was triggered. I have worked with those as well. A lot depends on what vehicle, what type of sensor, how it is wired from the factory, and what the vehicle computer does with the info. Normally, you think of a 0-5 volt reading associated with a wide band. I worked with one vehicle that the computer would vary the voltage so there was a 0-5 volt range, but it was a narrow band sensor. The computer varied the voltage going in, and read the voltage coming out. The in voltage was subtracted from the out voltage to derive the amount of swing across the actual sensors 0-1 volt swing. This way the computer could detect an o2 fooler that created a fake tic-toc signal. The unit I was using was smart enough to apply the offset to the swinging input voltage so the ecu received the correct reading within the expected response range, only I was giving it a lean value so it would apply fuel to negate the value I was feeding it, resulting in a rich AFR that the vehicle computer was happy to supply during part throttle boost.
Last edited by MrMoPar; Jul 9, 2012 at 07:25 PM.
Thank you so much for you response. I'll P.M. you with some more details. You are the first person that has actually bothered to offer help on this.
More than happy to help. I have done a lot of tuning on the Hemi,s using various methods. My turbocharged 5.7 Hemi uses pulse width modulation of fuel injectors directly, divorcing fuel from the factory ECU. Timing is easy up to 9 degree retard using signal delay, clamp on stock MAP sensor voltage, pulse width modulated closed loop feedback circuit boost control, progressive water/meth injection, overboost alarm, all from a single unit. I know I could tune a Crossfire, just never had the time, and have had one since new in may of 05!
Looks like it may be a variant of this.
Perhaps it's installed the same way??
http://www.fuelflexint.com/pdfs/Tech...anual_V0_1.pdf
Perhaps it's installed the same way??
http://www.fuelflexint.com/pdfs/Tech...anual_V0_1.pdf
I would re-iterate, make sure you have enough injector duty-cycle to compensate before you start the conversion process. If you have over 70% worst case IDC, there is a chance the mixture will run lean with stock configuration. Not the end of the world if you still want to purse this, just means you will need either more fuel pressure or larger injectors.
This **** is gold bruh!
1: gallon for gallon contains less energy potential vs gasoline.
2: ethanol, being an alcohol, is hydroscopic, meaning the **** absorbs water. Period. For those people that run through a tank of fuel a day and refuel at a station that has its tanks refilled almost daily this isnt a problem. For the other 95%, this means you are getting a free helping of WATER with your alcoholed up gasoline, that hasnt dropped a single penny in price with the dilution of the 'much cheaper' fuel.
On that same topic, alcohol WILL seperate from gasoline, and gas floats on top of it. So those of us who live/work/refill rural, the original 10% ethanol mix may be 50 or 60% in your couple gallons of gas if you are the first one to fill up after a long period of time (as little as overnight!). Pumps draw from the bottom, not the top.
3: yes, ethanol does have a higher octane rating as well as slightly better cooling abilities than gasoline, which makes it make sense for very high performance 'race' machines. However these racing outfits do not use pump ethanol. They get their fuel from the source and store it in methods to prevent the absorbtion of moisture. They use the fuel in small quantities (compared to street use) so it makes sense in this role. For any other use, i stand behind my statement fully, Ethanol is GARBAGE.
Last edited by MoparFreak69; Jul 14, 2012 at 04:52 PM.
Well, first of all... just to follow up on my original dilemma:
I made that change to the conversion box, inside, so the little potentiometer is now set back at "5" vs. "2" where I found it originally. So far, so good... No more CEL's after a week of driving. I think I'm finally ready to get that emissions test re-taken later this week and get my plates and title transferred. (Going to cost me a $25 late fee though... grr.)
As for ethanol, I did a lot of reading (both pro and con) on it, and I'd agree with most of this. Of course, the complaint about alcohol separating from the gasoline when it sits overnight really applies more to the 10% ethanol concentrations found in unleaded gas all across the country. (I don't think I've even seen a single pump in the St. Louis, MO area that didn't have the 10% ethanol blend in the gas -- so pretty unavoidable around here.) If you're talking about E85 and a vehicle modified to use it? You probably don't care much about the separation issue. Even with conversion kits like the box my car has in it now, they claim you should also be ok to run E98 (which is 98% ethanol in the blend).
The biggest scam about the entire thing, IMO, is the idea it made sense to encourage farmers to grow so much corn to be used as the fuel. With the drought conditions we're seeing now, crops are dying all over the midwest, and we're about to see a price increase on groceries. There's no WAY fuel like E85 will be cheaper than regular unleaded gas in a situation like this, and we'd probably all be better off using edible crops as food for people, and using other options for the cars and trucks.
Personally, I think compressed natural gas has a lot more promise. I don't know how well that works for high performance applications ... but seems like a good answer for the daily driver vehicles out there. With recent developments in extracting natural gas from shale deposits, our country (as well as Canada and Mexico) have plentiful supplies available for at least the next 100 years.
I made that change to the conversion box, inside, so the little potentiometer is now set back at "5" vs. "2" where I found it originally. So far, so good... No more CEL's after a week of driving. I think I'm finally ready to get that emissions test re-taken later this week and get my plates and title transferred. (Going to cost me a $25 late fee though... grr.)
As for ethanol, I did a lot of reading (both pro and con) on it, and I'd agree with most of this. Of course, the complaint about alcohol separating from the gasoline when it sits overnight really applies more to the 10% ethanol concentrations found in unleaded gas all across the country. (I don't think I've even seen a single pump in the St. Louis, MO area that didn't have the 10% ethanol blend in the gas -- so pretty unavoidable around here.) If you're talking about E85 and a vehicle modified to use it? You probably don't care much about the separation issue. Even with conversion kits like the box my car has in it now, they claim you should also be ok to run E98 (which is 98% ethanol in the blend).
The biggest scam about the entire thing, IMO, is the idea it made sense to encourage farmers to grow so much corn to be used as the fuel. With the drought conditions we're seeing now, crops are dying all over the midwest, and we're about to see a price increase on groceries. There's no WAY fuel like E85 will be cheaper than regular unleaded gas in a situation like this, and we'd probably all be better off using edible crops as food for people, and using other options for the cars and trucks.
Personally, I think compressed natural gas has a lot more promise. I don't know how well that works for high performance applications ... but seems like a good answer for the daily driver vehicles out there. With recent developments in extracting natural gas from shale deposits, our country (as well as Canada and Mexico) have plentiful supplies available for at least the next 100 years.
I know this about ethanol;
1: gallon for gallon contains less energy potential vs gasoline.
2: ethanol, being an alcohol, is hydroscopic, meaning the **** absorbs water. Period. For those people that run through a tank of fuel a day and refuel at a station that has its tanks refilled almost daily this isnt a problem. For the other 95%, this means you are getting a free helping of WATER with your alcoholed up gasoline, that hasnt dropped a single penny in price with the dilution of the 'much cheaper' fuel.
On that same topic, alcohol WILL seperate from gasoline, and gas floats on top of it. So those of us who live/work/refill rural, the original 10% ethanol mix may be 50 or 60% in your couple gallons of gas if you are the first one to fill up after a long period of time (as little as overnight!). Pumps draw from the bottom, not the top.
3: yes, ethanol does have a higher octane rating as well as slightly better cooling abilities than gasoline, which makes it make sense for very high performance 'race' machines. However these racing outfits do not use pump ethanol. They get their fuel from the source and store it in methods to prevent the absorbtion of moisture. They use the fuel in small quantities (compared to street use) so it makes sense in this role. For any other use, i stand behind my statement fully, Ethanol is GARBAGE.
1: gallon for gallon contains less energy potential vs gasoline.
2: ethanol, being an alcohol, is hydroscopic, meaning the **** absorbs water. Period. For those people that run through a tank of fuel a day and refuel at a station that has its tanks refilled almost daily this isnt a problem. For the other 95%, this means you are getting a free helping of WATER with your alcoholed up gasoline, that hasnt dropped a single penny in price with the dilution of the 'much cheaper' fuel.
On that same topic, alcohol WILL seperate from gasoline, and gas floats on top of it. So those of us who live/work/refill rural, the original 10% ethanol mix may be 50 or 60% in your couple gallons of gas if you are the first one to fill up after a long period of time (as little as overnight!). Pumps draw from the bottom, not the top.
3: yes, ethanol does have a higher octane rating as well as slightly better cooling abilities than gasoline, which makes it make sense for very high performance 'race' machines. However these racing outfits do not use pump ethanol. They get their fuel from the source and store it in methods to prevent the absorbtion of moisture. They use the fuel in small quantities (compared to street use) so it makes sense in this role. For any other use, i stand behind my statement fully, Ethanol is GARBAGE.
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