Good luck Ax - as always, we are here if you need assistance

RL

 

Hello again. Thanks RL67037 for the great info on the I/C Pump. I just got the car back from the Dodge Dealership who just installed it. They only charged me $135 for the install, and while they were at it I asked them to change the coolant too. The old stuff was 7 or so years old so it was time. Haven't had time to check it out though as it snowed last night. This weekend it is suppose to be nice so I'll up date later.

 

I did a post showing how to make your own dip stick for a buck with a big wire zip tie, large one.

I can tell you personally that if you overfill the transmission, it will pump out the excess fluid as you drive it though some purists will not like to think about that.

Just saying, Enjoy Woody

 

pump the oil out through what?

 

If the level is too high, there is a vent tube that will purge the level if it exceeds the rated . Woody

 

www.needswings.com carry the bosch pump as well. Rob will answer all your questions about the XF... Check out his site....

 

Is there a way to get the cap off without distroying the security clip? If the clip is removed without one in its place, will the cap ever fly off? I want to verify the level but want to have the site look undisturbed. I have the LPW and if opening that clip gives them a reason to deny any claim, well there you go. Anyway, both questions are a concern.

 

The tamper clip is only around $5.

NEW MERCEDES Transmission Filler Cap Lock Pin 140 991 00 55 on eBay!

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...stick-cap.html

 

The clip has to be destroyed when taking it off, that is the reason the spare clips are made. The OEM clips are black and the replacements are red. The clip acts as a lock.
In my case the clip can be removed without harming it as the cap is screwed up, as a result the cap with the clip still in it can be removed as a unit. I was worried that the cap may come off at any time but this has been proved not to be true. I want to buy the cap, I have spare clips but they of course are not getting broken.

 

It is HALLOWEEN and the car is now parked. Only had a chance to to drive it for a few miles after the intercoller was replaced. Prelim findings is that all is Ok. ECU Program to follow in the spring. Scary, ooops, Soory for the delay guys, but this is Canada and it is currently -8C or about 24f with snow and ice on the roads. Stay tuned for the Spring run in May.

 

You should move to southern Ontario, I went fishing today and it was not ice fishing. It was peeing with rain so we only fished for two hours but I caught five rainbow trout.

 

Lol sounds like north to me as well. I used to live in FL and honestly it got old after a few years - 100% humidity with 100 degree heat was a killer with constant mid afternoon rain and crazy sized bugs what will up your bumper paint. I'm originally from Russia so I know what cold is lol. Maryland weather is perfect, you get all the seasons and it only snows a few times a year, last year we pretty much had no snow so I can dd my SRT all winter .

 

I just brought the car out of the garage and Eurocharge Tune and it preformed very well until it warmed up. Once it warmed up it does the same thing it did before. I changed the I/C pump "Bosch 0392022010" and coolant before I parked for the winter. Just tuned it and it's power out put is still unpredictable. Sometimes it goes like a Bat out of &@!%^ and sometimes not. Should I try changing the I/C pump again or are there other possible solutions? If I do not reply after April 22 it is because I'm on vacation till the 17 of May at which time I'm going to troubleshoot this problem.

 

Wire up a couple of idiot lights :
1. common ground.
2. one lead to the hot side of the S/C clutch
3. other lead to the hot side of the I/C pump.
use the windshield wiper to clamp the lights.
use different color 12v bulbs.

Then when it stumbles, you'll know what's what.

 

You might want to check the fuse for the pump before you start swapping parts. Also, was it running fine before the tune? I see that it's been in storage for a while - are you certain no critters have been in there making a home out of the wire bundles? Just some things to try before you start randomly replacing parts.

 

I'll check the fuse. Could you tell me where to look? Yes the car ran fine before the tune and it runs fine now. When the I/C pump was change last year I drive the car from the garage to my garage so the I/C pump issue was never evaluated. On the way to the tune up place this week it started doing the same thing and after the ECU reprogram it still does it. Thanks Rl for you response.

 

The owners manual shows the fuse to be #13 and it is a 10 amp. It should be in the under-hood fuse block on the driver side near the firewall. The fuse might be labeled "Charge Air Cooler Circulation Pump".

I have no idea if a tune can affect the operation of the pump, but if all of the electrical stuff checks out, you might want to go back to the original tune (if possible) and see if it works.

Alax also has a good idea so you will know if the its the pump or the S/C clutch. Seems a good way to narrow it down.

RL

 

I was in the garage when you emailed and you are 100% right. #13 fuse which is a 10 Amp fuse was blown. I'm going for a drive right now to test it. I'll get back today.