I recently purchased a SRT-6 with only 4400 miles on it. Upon inspection I notice trany fluid on the ground, which explained why it would shift into neutral when decelerating after quickly accellerating. This leak was on a o ring. Now that it has been repaired I've noticed that sometimes it accellerates fine at other times the revs go up but the car accellerates slowly.

Before I due a ECU Reprogram, should I have the trany checked? A reputable mechanic says it may be the trany or something as simple as a sensor in the trany itself. This sensor my not be talking to the engine causing this problem. Has anyone exerienced this problem?

 

The o-ring is common. When replaced did the shop do a test to fill the trans fluid? There is not a dip stick so it must be done correctly. You sound like you are still low on fluid, and this will damage the transmission.

 

Try a throttle reset. There are instructions on the forum on how to do, just go to search.

 

Acceleratioin issue would be the Intercooler Pump.....notorious problem on the SRT6. Easy fix and the pump can be found for around $200-250.

 

Thanks for the quick response.

It was a Dodge dealership that did the fix last year and as of right now the trany sliped out of gear with the revs going without power. After stopping and the trany going back into gear was I only able to go. The car now has 6900 miles on it.

I think I may have to revisit them. I'll get them to check the fluid level and the condition of the fluid. That is where I'll start.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I'm not sure if this is the way to respond to this thread as I just left another response. Hope the other one goes unnoticed as it is the same as this one.

The repair was done last year at a Dodge dealership when the car had 6000 miles on it, now it has 6900 miles. Just now the trany slipped out of gear and after stopping did it go back into gear. I'm going to revisit them for a level check and a qualitiy of oi check.

After their findings will I persue repairs.

 

There is a thread on here about how to either buy or make your own dipstick, and a how to. If you decide to have others do it for you, I highly recommend going to an independent Mercedes mechanic instead of the Dodge dealer. It's very possible that the dealer didn't check the fluid level (because they didn't know how) and left you low for 900 miles. The majority of Chrysler/Dodge dealers don't know much about our X's. Regarding the acceleration; I agree that you might have two issues going on (intercooler pump). Remember, our cars are 8 yrs. old now, damn. Good luck.

 

True that, they are getting old. Yes I will take it to a Benz shop after Chysler has had a chance to evaluate it. Fortunately time is on my side as I have other vehicles to use and this one is a hobby vehicle. That being said, I wish to play more than work.
Thanks, Axcelr8

 

I'm leaning toward the I/C pump. My SRT was doing the same thing and I "thought" the transmission was slipping because of how it felt. One time, the car would lay you back in the seat and 2 minutes later it would be doing nothing even though the RPMs were way up. That's what losing 115 HP in an instant will make your brain believe. I doubt that any shop will pick up on this - I came here to find the answer.

If you decide it's the I/C pump, several people have replaced their OEM pumps with a Johnson CM30 but you will have to modify the mounting bracket and the electrical connector. Here is the latest Bosch pump that will replace the faulty OEM with no modifications required.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0392022010-Engine-Auxiliary-Water/dp/B0071N4Z0K

Good luck

RL

 

Well I got my car back and it is time for a test drive, I'll give feed back later but preliminary findings is that the fluid was low and now when I put it into drive, there is no hesitation and no clunk. It is much smoother now. Also they cleared a TCU fault "incorrect gear ratio". They were very good about the price as they felt some what responisible for not filling the trany to the proper level in the first place.

Cross your fingers.

 

My fingers are crossed for you, but what do you mean "good about the price" ?
Heck, there should be no price - they were the ones that messed up and almost cost you a very expensive transmission .........

 

I feel that you are right, but the agreement I signed was was for 90 days warrentee and due to the fact that I brought it to them over a year later they had concerns. I had just got the vehicle and didn't know what to expect. Truethfully I thought that that was the way it was. I wasn't until I read this forum that I started to get educated. Anyway it was due to the fact that there was so little mileage put on the vehicle that they recinded the price. I paid for the diagnostics only. To be hounest I wanted to establish a relashionship with them as trust comes before money. The upside is that if their are trany issues then I have a leg to stand on. I live in Canada and I purchased the vehicle from th US. There is no warrentee when importing into Canada.

That being said, my drive today was delightful. Shifting was smooth even after some agressive moves.

Mods to come next year.

Please keep you comments comming.

 

36,800 miles.......Im having the same exact problems. I do believe it is that pump as well because it works just fine when you start the vehicle up and run it after it has been given a chance to fully cool down, but then once it warms up, the acceleration is unbelievably slow. If this is what losing 115 hp feels like, I would NEVER recommend buying a run of the mill Crossfire. I do believe it is a loss of much more than that to be honest because now your intake system is struggling to get the air through the supercharger system, where as the NA Crossfire is designed in a different manner. With that being said, I plan on changing the pump.

To RL, the link you listed...that pump is Plug n Play? I just want to confirm this because I am about to order it. The dealer quoted me 479?!?!? for just the pump...hmmm, I do not have time to perform the repair myself so it has to go to the dealer. But if I can generate the part myself, Id much rather do that than pay what they are telling me. It makes sense to me with Maybach being a Benz product, but I dont like ordering car parts over the internet so I need to confirm this first.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but it only makes sense. It sounds like the same exact issue.

 

jjeling and the OP, there are specific instructions on this forum with pictures thanks to some helpful forum members. Honestly, with the symptoms you are describing and for the cost of the part it would be foolish not to try this first. If you have changed your oil before, then replacing the I/C pump shouldn't scare you off. It is a little messy but it is a straightforward job.

 

You can bet, after hearing what you all have said, the IC pump is in my crosshairs. Maybe not this year as my driving season for this car is coming to an end and I'm going away for a lengthy period, but definately next year. This will give me time to reseach and aquire the part.

 

RL67037, are you saying that the Bosch I/C Item 266876 is a direct bolt on with no mods needed?

 

JJ - I like your concern about not hi-jacking this thread, but since the OP has acknowledged that he, too, might be interested in the I/C pump, I'll post my answer in his thread. If you have any further questions, just IM me and I'll be happy to help or point you to other threads where I've commented about my findings on these pumps.

The Bosch pump in the link I provided is indeed a plug-n-play since it is listed as a Bosch part number 0392022010 - the key is the "010" at the end of the part number - that indicates the latest Bosch revision of the part. I mistakenly posted the wrong link of where I purchased the pump from, as I actually purchased my pump from Amazon here:


but it's up to you where you buy your part from, just be sure it is the correct leading part number and ends in an "010".

If you need more help or have more question, just shoot me an IM - happy to help

RL

 

Axceler8 & JJ

Here is a link to some pics of what I pulled out of my car and how it compares to the "010" pump that I purchased from Amazon.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...mp-change.html

The pump I pulled out of my car was a Bosch "003"

RL

EDIT - Gents, here is a thread with some really good info about the pump options - read posts 15 through 29 and most of your questions will be answered.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...placement.html

 

Way cool, thanks RL67037 it makes sense now. Thanks for your knowledge and experience.

 

Well gang I just purchased a 0392 022 010 I/C pump from Ebay as Amazon doesn't recognize my Canadian address. Hec for $150 (shipping included) its well worth it. I'll keep you posted with the results. It may take a while to post results as the pump will not be installed untill early October.