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Just wondering if anybody has feedback on how hard it is to change the Engine mounts(passenger side, driver side and the transmission). I have seen that Rob at Needswings has some replacement Engine mounts. Are these the OEM ones?
not an easy task. figure 8 hrs to do the job. forget about torqing them after the install. no way you get any kind of torque wrench in there. engine has to be lifted up alt partially removed its a major pain in the a%*
It is a pain in the butt, it took me about 5-6 hours for removing both engine mounts and installing the new ones from Rob. Rob sells the OEM Mercedes ones. If you are going to do this get the OEM ones not the cheaper ones on Ebay. My passenger side mount was still good but the driver side was toast. I replaced both anyways. I don't think these mounts are made to resist lifting of the motor on the driver side, but there doesn't seem to be a good aftermarket or diy alternative that lasts longer than the OEM ones. Steve is right when he says forget about torqueing them. I used an open end wrench and blue locktite and then double checked them after one week. It was still tight. Good luck
my mech just changed mine + the steering damper (and tranny mount) for $200.....sweet
Got him to give me back my old ones (LH in 2 pieces) in case I'm inclined on the 2 Pak Poly Fill If someone can spot a link to that thread - much appreciated. I got some measurements I took from the new ones to help setup my/your own jig.
"Good" old one (RH) I measured is 12mm shorter/lower than new one. I guess compression over the years - I figure they are 2002 originals +80k miles.
Last edited by Billy22Bob; 02-13-2014 at 11:23 PM.
I had a shop put mine in, got mine from Needswings, I could have found them cheaper but decided to support a vendor. Anyhow, cost me $400, I had the engine mounts and tranny mount replaced.
As others have said, it is usually the driver side mount that dies, looks like mine were the original that went out at 122k.
A friend of mine with a 250kW WRX had a little tiny 6" shock absorber bolted to his engine block across to the Right hand strut tower.
Although the chain/rope seems adequate, I'm wondering if anyone has seen one of these struts on an Xfire/SLK32?
Engineering wise I guess we are talking some serious poundage - so you might even be challenging or compromising the tower...???
Replaced engine support on the drivers side today. I will offer some tips that will allow you to do the job within one hr and not loose your religion in the process.
This would be the perfect time to replace the steering stabilizer.
You will need an extra set of hands; I used my ten year old.
Tools
13 mm socket
17 mm socket
3/8” Extension at least 20” long
2) 3/8” swivels
3/8” ratchet
#20 star bit? Forgot size all ready
1/2” Ratchet
17mm wrench
Floor Jack
20” long 1x4 to go on top of floor jack to lift motor
2) ramps to raise front of car
cheater bar/pipe for 3/8” ratchet
-Raise and secure car. Apply emergency brake
-Turn steering far left
- remove engine pan / shield if it’s still present
-remove bolt on steering stabilizer at middle of car ; drivers side (17mm socket and 17mm wrench)
- remove bolt at center of cross member Star bit. It’s probably going to be tight.
- turn steering far right
- open hood and remove breather assembly over engine and air intake on the drivers side.
- insert 3/8” extension down beside exhaust manifold in first opening towards front of engine; right next to coil. 1/2” extension WILL NOT fit the narrow space
- under car; apply both swivels to 17mm socket and then attach swivel to bottom of 3/8” extension. This was the hardest part for me since it takes a lot of coordination with top person.
- hold socket over bolt while the top person removes the bolt. The bolt is about 2.5” long.
- now apply 1x4 under engine and raise engine about 2”. I placed the 1x4 right in front of the engine support. Make certain that your not lifting with the oil pan or the transmission cooling line.
Remove the lower engine support bolt. 13mm socket
- remove the tin cover over the engine support. The top bolt engine support bolt was the only thing holding it on.
- slowly remove the old engine support. It will come, but does take some prayer
- Remove rubber boot from new engine support.
- slowly work the new engine support into position. Then apply rubber boot ensuring that the notch on the boot matches the engine support. This is a pain since the boot will tend to move while your getting the top support bolt in.
- insert the tin on top of the new support
- put the support bolt thru the tin and hold up and wiggle the support until you can get the bolt started. It should be easy to turn. Keep wiggling and turning until your certain the notch and tab are aligned.
- using the 3/8” extension and swivels, tighten the top support bolt. I did not torque, but did use a 1’ cheater pipe over the ratchet
- lower engine and then insert/ tighten lower engine support bolt. 13 mm socket
- reinstall steering stabilizer and cross member brace.
Maybe someone can help refine this process so that it becomes a simpler task.
COUV, that is a good explanation at a DIY project, Thanks for the write-up. I can't imagine trying to use the swivels on the 3/8" I know you found religion in that effort. I believe using a ratcheting box wrench ( see picture) would make the job easier and I'm guessing removing the exhaust pipe would give you more working room. I would suggest anyone else trying this exercise watch the clearance at the firewall when lifting the engine so as not to damage anything at the rear of the engine.
I changed the engine mounts on a M113 engine, CLK 500 using a very similar method to your's. GOOD JOB!
I know this is an old post, but maybe I will get lucky.
I am trying to change my driver side mount from the bottom, and no luck.
Taking the old mount out is not that bad, but the new mount I got is slightly bigger and will not go from the bottom (the space between the pitman arm, the center link and the engine is too small, even when raising the engine a few inches).
I have been advised to unbolt the AC compressor to insert the mount from the top. I have not seen anybody do it that way here on the forum.
Any input from anybody who ran into the same issue?
I know this is an old post, but maybe I will get lucky.
I am trying to change my driver side mount from the bottom, and no luck.
Taking the old mount out is not that bad, but the new mount I got is slightly bigger and will not go from the bottom (the space between the pitman arm, the center link and the engine is too small, even when raising the engine a few inches).
I have been advised to unbolt the AC compressor to insert the mount from the top. I have not seen anybody do it that way here on the forum.
Any input from anybody who ran into the same issue?
Thanks,
Alex
Just curious how you ever made out. I am ordering the mounts now and trying to do as much research as I can before I start. Were you ever able to get the mount in?
Just curious how you ever made out. I am ordering the mounts now and trying to do as much research as I can before I start. Were you ever able to get the mount in?
Yes I did. I did not touch the AC compressor or anything driven by the serpentine belt.
Access was 100% from bottom.
I simply took the center link off the L&R control arms as well as idler arm and pitman arm.
I HIGHLY recommend ordering the specific tool to pop the four center link ball joints.
Once the center link was off, I couldn't remove it from under the car because the car was on ramp, which means the wheels were still on the car. Still, I could move the center link out of the way and from there, it was all good. Tight fit, but very manageable. If you are careful with the center link, you won't need a new front alignment.
I am not going to say that removing the center link is THE way to go, but it was the best way for me because I had replaced the center link a few month prior. This was something I was familiar with and felt confident doing. To each his own.
Here are a few pictures from when I did it.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Driver side. Old mount still in, new mount next to it for comparison. Center link stays in the car but is off the pitman arm. "Plenty" of room. I took this torx bolt off so I could pull on that bar and make more room for the driver side mount. Breaker bar needed, tight one! Center link off lower control arm. Tightening upper bolt on new mount. Driver side. Ratchet fits in there. Barely, but it does. Once it's in, piece of cake. Passenger side. Idler arm and center link disconnected. Remember to disconnect the battery. Alternator is right there. I almost had a heart attack when my ratchet wrench touched a live wire and fireworks started inches form my face. A stubby 16mm box wrench is very welcomed for the passenger side. These are the only "special" tools needed. Center link ball joint extractor in the middle. The bottom one is a generic ball joint tool. You will not need it if you take your wheels off. In my case, the wheels were still on, so the extractor that is in the middle was rubbing against the rims and I had to use the other extractor to pop the center link ball joints from the lower control arms. I would recommend doing this with the wheels off if you go down the center link road. Old mounts. I guess it was not a waste of time.
Last edited by FrenchyAlex; 12-29-2019 at 12:28 AM.
Yes I did. I did not touch the AC compressor or anything driven by the serpentine belt.
Access was 100% from bottom.
I simply took the center link off the L&R control arms as well as idler arm and pitman arm.
I HIGHLY recommend ordering the specific tool to pop the four center link ball joints.
Once the center link was off, I couldn't remove it from under the car because the car was on ramp, which means the wheels were still on the car. Still, I could move the center link out of the way and from there, it was all good. Tight fit, but very manageable. If you are careful with the center link, you won't need a new front alignment.
I am not going to say that removing the center link is THE way to go, but it was the best way for me because I had replaced the center link a few month prior. This was something I was familiar with and felt confident doing. To each his own.
Here are a few pictures from when I did it.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Driver side. Old mount still in, new mount next to it for comparison. Center link stays in the car but is off the pitman arm. "Plenty" of room. I took this torx bolt off so I could pull on that bar and make more room for the driver side mount. Breaker bar needed, tight one! Center link off lower control arm. Tightening upper bolt on new mount. Driver side. Ratchet fits in there. Barely, but it does. Once it's in, piece of cake. Passenger side. Idler arm and center link disconnected. Remember to disconnect the battery. Alternator is right there. I almost had a heart attack when my ratchet wrench touched a live wire and fireworks started inches form my face. A stubby 16mm box wrench is very welcomed for the passenger side. These are the only "special" tools needed. Center link ball joint extractor in the middle. The bottom one is a generic ball joint tool. You will not need it if you take your wheels off. In my case, the wheels were still on, so the extractor that is in the middle was rubbing against the rims and I had to use the other extractor to pop the center link ball joints from the lower control arms. I would recommend doing this with the wheels off if you go down the center link road. Old mounts. I guess it was not a waste of time.
Awesome info! I'll be sure to pick up the tool. Thanks!
Just a quick update. I was able to change the mounts with no issues. I did everything from the bottom and was able to get away with leaving the steering assembly in tact as well as the cross member. I just turned the steering back and forth a bit to wiggle the mount out and in. PS. I HIGHLY recommend this tool to get to the top bolt. Made my life a lot easier.
Just a quick update. I was able to change the mounts with no issues. I did everything from the bottom and was able to get away with leaving the steering assembly in tact as well as the cross member. I just turned the steering back and forth a bit to wiggle the mount out and in. PS. I HIGHLY recommend this tool to get to the top bolt. Made my life a lot easier.
Glad it went fine. There was no way for me to get the mount in place without taking something off. I wonder if our cars may be a little different, or maybe the mounts? Where did you buy yours from, and what brand?
Here is a pic of the old/new. The only thing different I saw in the mount (beside it being in one piece) is that it didnt have the metal rivet in the side of it
Changing the engine mount
