I take my boost signal both from the Zeitronix and the OBDII. The values are different thoguh. The OEM OBDII boost sensor gives the values in dashdaq as KPa this can easily be converted in the zeitronix datalog to PSI. You also have to subtract 14.7 to compensate for the atmospherical pressure. The Zeitronix boost pressure sensor is the best way to go, you get more readings per second and you get a much better accurate value.

/Adam

 

I also find 22 PSI to be high. And I read mine at the Y pipe. One of the things I can think of is my dual catless exhaust that should reduce the boost reading for me.

 

I am logging boost with Rob's boost sensor straight into the Zt-2. The software was acting a little funny so I will have to keep it in mind when I log again at a later date. I did however through the over boost code which makes sense for the 22 psi right?

 

Yes and no. It makes sense to get the over boost code at 22 PSI but I have gotten the over boost code at the track a few times with just a 181 mm crank pulley and the boost was under 20 PSI.

 

If you get an adjustable regulator for the fuel system from ROB, you can adjust the pressure to tune the F/A system. I have done this and was at 9.0 at one time using the boost signal to feed into the stock regulator, phew that was rich.

I now use a fluidic style computer to adjust the F/A and close the loop with the Zeitronic control signal to bleed off pressure if needed, there are charts from a dyno pull at carlisle in my gallery.

My fluidic regulator gives me one psi output signal for each psi the boost is over my set point, the set point is adjustable so that I have an adjustable offset and add one psi per psi of boost over the set point. For me its like 15 psi or less = no boost signal to the fuel regulator. 16 psi gives one psi to boost the fuel rail pressure by one psi. 19 psi boost signal would give me 3 psi signal to boost the rail pressure by 3 psi, thus I am at about 60 psi at idle and at 19 psi boost the rail pressure goes up to 60 plus 3 or 63 psi.

The fuel that the engine gets; is affected by the on time of the injector pintal, the boost and the fuel pressure. at the limit the boost can push back on the injector to limit the fuel squirt to cause leaning at high boost.

Enjoy, Woody


BTW rich, lower the rail pressure a bit, lean, raise it also, adjustable regulators and filters are old news at Needswings, ask Rob. WW

 

Thanks Woody. This is the regulator system (let her eat) that Rob has and you developed?

 

Opps . . . I received a quick reply directly from my e-mail to Rob so disregard below . . . THANKS,




Need a little advice . . . I'm installing the AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the new fuel filter on my SRT6. This doohickey (see photo) was inline between the OEM filter/regulator and the connection to the fuel line going to the engine. What is it and do I need to leave it inline or can I / should I eliminate it?





Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise . . .

 

Okay Rob to the rescue with the correct answer.

 

Hey . . . THANKS for the quick response. I just revised my post because I also received a response from Rob to an e-mail I sent him at the same time I prepared the post. Amazing that he responded immediately even after 6 pm on the night before Thanksgiving. He also advised me to leave it in. Says it's a safety pressure release. I recently learned that the check valve is built into the (also newly installed) high volume fuel pump . . .


OK . . . Back to crawling under the Crossfire with my newly acquired knowledge!


HAPPY TURKEY DAY!

 

is it the static one?
Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator


If so why not go with one that increases fuel pressure as the boost increases for a few more bucks?
Aeromotive | 13101 - A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator

 

Hi Jesse, Well . . . I didn't know about the second one you show that increases pressure as the boost increases. I bought the unit from Needswings . . . Rob provided that first unit you're showing including all the required fittings, pressure gauge, fuel line and clamps . . .


http://www.needswings.com/NeedsWings...regulator.aspx


It's already installed now . . .


HAPPY TURKEY DAY!

 

JJ****.....Bazzinga!
Now - that's what I'm talking about!....

Can someone chime in as to the disadvantages of these and maybe why NW don't stock 'em?

....l8tr...interesting
Looped fuel rail mod...

 

That's a great reason Red.

Happy thanksgiving!

 

If I read the info correctly on Robs' adjustable regulator, the little outlet that he says to cap can be connected to a vac line to do just that, increase pressure with an increase in boost/ I'm not sure where that would be on the SRT6, I would like a little more info on why he says to cap it and not use it as was described in the literature.

 

subscribed.....!

 

These are the installation instructions that Rob provided . . .


1. jack up back of car, or just reverse it up onto ramps
2. remove black plastic shield covering fuel pump/filter
3. remove oem filter/regulator, wear glasses as fuel will spray when you remove the first line
4. swap in new filter, line from pump goes to the filter in,
5. line from out on filter goes to the regulator in either 3 or 9 oclock position, flow can go either way
6. line that went to tank on oem filter goes to the bottom port on regulator
7. install gauge onto face of regulator, use Teflon tape or paste, I prefer paste
8. small vac line from oem filter goes to small port on top of new regulator
9. mount new regulator to underbody bolt with supplied aem bracket
10. zip tie up the excess lines to secure them
11. have buddy turn key to on position without starting car, while your underneath watch the pressure gauge and get the regulator to 58psi
12. start car and verify pressure setting while running, the car will chug a few times on initial startup while it purges out the air bubbles
13. check for leak, recheck for leaks, after test driving check for leaks again, once all leaks are tightened up put the plastic shield back under the car and enjoy 



I don't see where he advises to "cap" any of the outlets. NOTE that instruction #8 says to hook up the vacuum line to the small port on top of the new adjustable regulator . . . Is that maybe what you're asking about??

 

I was conversing with Rob via E-mail when he told me that but then he sent PDF and it is as you posted so I will go with that. I wont be installing this until spring but I am curious if the pressure is increased with the boost approaching 19-20.

 

Jesse (or anyone else) running one of these with >20psi?.

b22b

 

I am running completely stock fuel system. I am reconnaissance mode right now. I want to try and figure out what problems I have right now with running rich on the bottom and then lean on the top. Bottom end rich may be leaking injector or tune that isn't quite right. I need to add a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to check for leak down and/or get the V2 program from Eurocharged to put the OEM tune back in the ECU and log again to see if it's the tune that I have.


After fixing that problem then I want to datalog fuel pressure on a dyno watching AFR for fuel pressure and see what the IDC is. I will probably add the pump first to ensure there is plenty of volume behind the injectors and then may play with an adjustable regulator but will more than likely add injectors when it's all said and done.


I've talked with Hustler316 and Latemodel21 who are very knowledgeable and took the time to share their experiences as they have been through this before.

 

Jesse (or anyone else) running one of these with >20psi?.

b22b