First off all work done by a Chrysler dealer. [8/12/14] Check engine lite on so we took it in, was advised fault code p0720 transmission control module internal fault. Replaced at a total of {$471.25 }- fault code p0305 and p0300 replaced fuel injector at cylinder #5 { $505.84}- fault code p0111 intake air temperature sensor replaced {$1070.50 } - fault code 1179 steering angle sensor replaced {$963.08} and was advised the abs module may have to be replaced if fault codes promt again.
[9/9/14] Check engine light on again! Fault code 1179 steering angle sensor again, replaced at no charge. Also scanned and retrieved undocumented fault code!! [9/18/14] Yep check engine light on again. Fault code p0113 intake air temperature fault, complete module scan and test wiring from intake air temperature sensor to pcm and confirmed intake power. Replaced intake air temperature sensor again. No charge.
[11/7/14] Light on again. Dealer finally confirmed with Chrysler about the undocumented code from 9/9/14 and advised it was the air charge intercooler and smog pump. replaced.{$2637.00}. And as you all know the dealer does not have these parts in stock so its a week to 10 days each time to get them.
11/17/2014 So $4577.17 later the lights on again. Anybody else experience this or have any ideas?

 

I have an idea - you are taking a Mercedes to a Chrysler dealer, and they are grasping at straws and throwing parts at it (at your cost) because they know NOTHING about the car.

"Chrysler told them.............."
What a bunch of B.S. - who at Chrysler knows anything about the SLK32AMG (which is what your car is, with a different body.)

My advice:
Take the car to some local shop KNOWN for Mercedes experience and don't go near a Chrysler dealer again.

 

Also, if the light is on again, go to Autozone and get them to read it for you (they do it for free).

Come back here, and give us the code - we can help you from that point on...

 

Did i read IAT sensor costing $1,000....?

 

that's right Zoodust

 

Dang dude.. thats a lot of money for that.. Rob from Needswings sells the IAT sensor for 30 bucks and the installation takes 45 min to do it yourself :/

 

The IAT/MAF sensor ( with housing ) is $27.40 at http://www.carparts.com/details/Chry...FY6EaQodj0MAvg
Labor on replacing should be around 20 minutes.

 

Now that i'm done beating myself up,it was 414.50 labor and 656.00 for the part. I know I have been racked over the coals by this dealer,and real strange all these things are going bad at the same time.

 

Yea man that is INSANE! I work at a dealership and that even sounds crazy to me! But honestly man invest in a code reader or like a guy abover said just go to an autozone to have your code read and then come here to find out the problem. I guarentee we can help fix or know someone who can help save you money!

 

I'd say they ARE NOT going bad at the same time - because it is very likely many of these parts are not BAD at all.

As the Zoo-guy said, get the codes read and come back here - don't just take the car to the crooks. (I mean, it's one thing to throw parts at the car because you don't know what you are doing - it is quite another to rip a customer off in the process by charging outrageous prices for mundane parts).

See why I go off on dealers so much? Also, notice that the manufacturers don't do/say anything about such dealers. THAT bothers me as well - I mean, would you ever BUY any car from that dealer now?

 

That's the feeling I have about all the replaced parts. In your issues above the picture you have twice resoldered RCM, What is the RCM?

 

Probably the first important fix we apply to our cars. Takes care of ALOT of various problems. Read through this thread for more info:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

And DO NOT buy a new board as it will develop the same de-soldering. You're better off sending it to Tighed1 who will repair the solder joints, replace any faulting relays and test the board for a fraction of the cost of a new board, which like I stated will develop the same problem.


And here's a Must-Save thread that list most of the problems & fixes that we have come across in our time with the XFires:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s-repairs.html

 

Can you say "I've been RIPPED OFF by a Stealership!" They got you REALLY good!

 

We need a trophy for this category.
If we had such a thing, Di, you would own it and get to shamefully display it on your mantle.

 

Man: DO NOT GO TO THE STEALERSHIP AGAIN...just listen to pizzaguy and the others... the Stealership will suck you financially dry ( and most times not get your problems fixed)..I've been a member of this Club/Forum just over 1 1/2 years and I have saved 1000s of dollars with the help of all of these knowledgeable-willing-to-help-people. Just recently, I lost the upper portion of the windshield molding...Stealership asked 581.00...found it from a member (all three pieces) for 150.00!!...Carl

 

I'm working long hours in a nuke plant - I see others answered for me, so I won't waste the time to repeat the RCM stuff, 'cept to say that RCM solder causes a LOT of issues.

It is ALMOST to the point that, if in doubt, resolder the RCM THEN see what you have.


But to answer your question, I got a check engine light and a P401 code both times. All this means, is that the secondary air injection pump was not running at startup for a few minutes to heat up the CATs faster, lowering emissions in those first minutes of engine running. All it means is that the light is on, and you can't pass an emissions inspection, the additional 'pollution' from the engine in really minimal.

 

When I first posted on this thread earlier today I was viewing / posting from my mobile phone and could not see all the details of the OP that can be seen when you view the forum on a PC from home. Really I don't want to rub salt in your wounds but now I can see that you joined this forum way back in 2007. I can't understand how you could possibly have blindly taken your Crossfire into that rip off dealership time and time again without ever checking in here on the forum to look for advice??

Staying away from the stealerships is at (or very near) the top as the most common piece of advice offered here on the forum! Please know that you are welcome here and while the monies you've already given to that stealership are probably gone for good, there are many here with experience and expertise to help you with any future issues you might find. You need to get back to being able to ENJOY that Crossfire again!

Frankly I would be so FRIGGIN angry (my blood pressure is already up 20 points and it's not even my car) that I would start by asking the service manager to justify the costs of those parts and the labor they charged you and I'd be recording everything he has to say. Those INSANE bills can't possibly be justified by published parts prices and the dealership's own flat rate repair manual guides. If you have a local news station with one of those investigative reporter types, I would be getting them involved too.

 

I'm one of the minority owners here that has a great dealership to work with. They've been Chrysler forever (like back when DeSoto was still around). When I feel compelled to go in and see them, I bring print-outs from the forum to assist in diagnosis and labor time. They actually appreciate it. And yes, I do most of my own wrenching even though it's a rare occasion when something does go wrong. I invested in a code reader long ago and that was small money well spent.

 

I bought INNOVA 3100 CanOBD2 scan tool Amazon had it for $180.00 printed the sheet and went to Wal-Mart $84.00 have had it for 5 years and worth the $$ that's why when I bought my 2007 Crossfire I boughtthe factory manuels $357.97 got more info thanI will ever need over 600 codes I wont go to any dealer they are all CROOKS.

 

Spent 18 bucks on Amazon.. give me the code and google can handle the rest.. then discovered blue tooth and Torque.. nothing left to consider now the way I see it..