OK my central locking pump module started acting up today on my way home from work and I found a good amount of water in the trunk. I was able to identify that was the issue quickly with this awesome forum. The question I still have is with the pump removed from the car would I still be able to drive the car without having any crazy issues down the line? I don't want to end up causing more damage. I understand my locks will be inop until I can find a replacement or try and clean mine up but is there anything else I should worry about?

 

Hmmmmmmmm.

I never considered just going without the pump/module.
Seems like the SKREEM is not going to like it - but I"m not sure.

I would be interested to see if the car will start without it in there and connected.

 

It started up fine with no CEL.

 

I have a very clean used (like new) module available for you if you need it. Not cheap but nice and it includes the four wiring harness connectors so you can replace those. Let me know if you want it. Contact me directly at RedDogNumber1@aol.com . . .

 

Keep us posted on how the car works with it removed. Thanks

 

I think the car will start and run with no other problems, cars have run fine with ruined ones so why not with the pump removed.

 

I did drive it to work this morning its about a 30 min commute and I had no problems. I was expecting my dome interior lights not to work but they worked fine. I think I seen that on some older threads but it wasn't the case with me.

 

I have put approx 100 miles without the pump module in. No issues at all, just cannot lock my car. My locks were working fine however I had an issue with my running lights stuck on, removing the module fixed that issue. Also no random siren issues while driving so far either. I took the module apart and can see corrosion and a burn mark on the board.

 

OK, that makes me feel allot better about driving it. I'm trying to clean my circuit board to see if I can salvage it. I'm sure some contact cleaner and a tooth brush will go a long way lol hopefully. Fingers crossed

 

I have used acetone as well, just be sure to test in a corner, it will sometimes remove the silkscreening of printed descriptions on the board, but shouldn't affect anything electrically.

 

Interesting - I spent alot of time with my circuit board a few years ago. Failed.
I also sourced a spare motor for the pump as well....but without being able to recover the circuit board it was a dead loss.


Good luck. Great test running the car without it...

 

Eventually I think you will have to buy a replacement. When you do buy one get one with the plugs so that you can splice them into your harness. If the pump was ruined by water you can expect some or all of the plugs to have damage as well.
Start saving, expect to pay $400 or more for a used one. Put the new pump in an open plastic bag under the foam in case it leaks again. Find and fix that leak now while you have some time without the pump in it.

 

All good advice (of course I expect nothing BUT good advice from you, Dave). FYI - I offered the OP the used but "like new" central locking module WITH all the wiring harness connectors that I currently have on a shelf as a spare. Offered for $400.00 + $20.00 shipping but he thought that was too much. He says he can buy a rebuilt one for just a little more than that. Watching this thread to see how he ends up on this . . .

 

Maybe the only reason they exist as rebuilds is because they were F'd up in the first place. Would I want one that had been damaged at one time? No.
Or maybe some of these units never did have any damage, they just checked it out, and stuck a label on it that says it was rebuilt. Now there is a good idea to make money. Why didn't I think of that? Oh! I just did.

 

I appreciate everyone helping out with this and Red Dog for offering up his spare. I'm still working on cleaning up the board to see what my options are. In the meantime I'd like to also put some sound deadening material down while I have everything out of the trunk and now that I know the car is safe to drive it will give me plenty of time to come up with a game plan.

 

All respects....The plastic bag isnt the answer.
The pump has to breath and not sweat. There's info over at the MB R170 board.
Keep it in the foam box, but if the hoses dont already go down and up and enter under the base of the unit (inverted) like they did in the later models ...for this reason....you'll have to buy some rubber tube and extend them so it can sit upside down. I had to do this in my 2002. This also apparently stops the fuel filler nozzle from allowing water to drain down the pnuematic tube as well.


Check out the R170 forum.

 

I read about the plastic bag and the inversion of the unit on that forum, I do not advocate a tight fitting bag naturally. The inversion would be better though if you can do it, I am none to sure that it is that easy what with lengthening the hoses. So better the bag than nothing I say, at least it would prevent disaster with 6" of water if the plug remained installed. I'm not an advocate of the plug removal, I did that on another car and a build up of silt occurred due to less air pressure in the trunk I think. The silt stayed wet and rusted through.
Best to check for leaks and repair them properly and then do the mod that you like.