For the past 2 weeks I have been troubleshooting my wifes SRT-6. The car won't start. When I put the key in and turn it to accessory, the radio will come on automatically and I can hear the fuel pump engage, when I go to start it, it will not engage the starter at all. No noise at all from the starter, it does not even attempt to crank. I re-soldered the RCM at the trouble points, had a electrical engineer friend of mine do it who works on circuit boards. he tested it with his fancy tool and it has communication to all points.(so it shouldn't be the RCM). No corrosion around the battery terminals, positive, negative, or the grounded point.

Yesterday, I was sick of the headache and decided to get it towed. Before the tow truck arrived, I put the key in and IT STARTED! I had tried jumping it and starting it at least 30 times in the past 2 weeks after trying numerous tricks that I had found on the forum.

I drove it down to the shop and told them not to turn it off until they got it into the garage where they would work on it because I couldn't guarantee that I could get it to start again. The shop tested the battery, alternator, and starter. They said that all came back in good working condition and that the problem came from there being no communication from the cars computer to the starter itself. (I am automatically thinking the worst and hoping that it is not a PCM failure- $5,000 fix.) They asked for an additional hour and a half worth of labor to trouble shoot the issue. They do not have an OBD3 tool and now I am debating to tow it to the dealership to get it worked on.

Any insight or ideas on what it could be?? I have looked up the SKREEM module, but the car at least seems to engage the starter 3 times and shuts off before it needs to be reset. The batteries in the key fob were replaced in the last 6 months. The doors unlock and lock with the key fob. NO CODES were thrown from the car. The car just turned over 20,000 miles and is still young at heart and my wife's pride and joy. Any and all help would be appreciated.

A.J.
Huntsville, AL

 

DBR3 scan tool.**

 

I had a similar issue and it ended up being the relays themselves.

 

Did you end up having to replace the entire RCM board?

 

Sorry, but your opening post does not make sense.

First, you say it won't engage the starter - then you say it engages the starter three times and then nothing. If it cranks three times then nothing, either the SKREEM is bad or the ring around the key is not reading the chip in the key fob.

Go ahead, take it to a dealer, it's only money. History has shown us they won't be able to fix the car, but they will sure charge you a lot of money. Let me restate that, IF it is a SKREEM, then good - cause that is their answer for everything.

Tell your "engineer" friend to simply download the service manual, follow the diagrams, and isolate the issue. If the relay for the engine control module on the RCM is bad, it is easy to track that down with a simple DVM.

If it is the SKREEM, well, the only way to really prove that is to replace the SKREEM - but I would not do that unless I was sure it was the SKREEM.

Again, if you can clarify which kind of "No Start" you have, we can get to the bottom of this easily.

 

He is stating what would happen if the SKREEM was bad, the statement confused me to start with.

 

Pizza, I think in the OP's post he was saying he read the three try and dead as a symptom for the SKREEM and that's why he didn't think it was the SKREEM. That was my take anyway. I think he has a relay problem.

Edit: You beat me Dave

 

Forget the PCM and $5,000.
The fob batteries have nothing to do with your problem, they only power the remote lock/unlock feature.
Forget the RCM.
I'd start looking at the power to the starter solenoid.
Start looking for power at the ignition switch, and the starter circuit.
From the Service Manual.
STARTER FAILS TO
OPERATE.
1. Battery discharged or faulty. 1. Refer to Battery in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8F - Engine Systems. Charge or replace the battery, if required.
2. Starting circuit wiring faulty. 2. Refer to Starting System in Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams. Test and repair the starter feed and/or control circuits, if required.
3. Ignition switch faulty. 3. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8D - Ignition System. Replace the ignition switch, if required.
4. Park/Neutral position switch faulty or misadjusted. 4. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 21 Transmission. Replace the park/neutral position switch, if required.
5. Starter solenoid faulty. 5. Refer to Starter Motor in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8F - Engine Systems. Replace the starter motor assembly, if required.
6. Starter motor faulty. 6. If all other starting system components and circuits test OK, replace the starter motor assembly.

 

I apologize about the wording. After I go back and read it, I can see where it is confusing. The starter never engaged, the 3 start and fail that I was referring to was from what I had read on the forum about SKREEM failures.

The shop said that they got it to start by "bending the RCM." They also said that there isn't anything visually wrong with it or any of the solders on the back of the board. I had a buddy who designs electronic boards for the military look at it prior and he was the one that tested it originally from the points on the back to the pins. As far as he could tell they all worked properly and he even touched up the problem solder points for me.

They are ordering a new RCM for me, they think the problem is on the front of the board underneath the relays. They aren't killing me on the price, and won't charge me for it if it does not work. so what the heck, why not give it a whirl.

I appreciate all of your help so far. I'll keep you updated on what they found out and if it works.

A.J.

 

To clarify what Pizaguy stated re: the Skreem module - it's my understanding that a non-function Skreem module can be diagnost only with a DRB III scan tool, rather then to simply replace it if you "think" it might be bad.

 

It ended up being a bad RCM. All the solders on the back still look good. The shop thinks it was the relay on the board also. Thank you for all the help.

-AJ

 

This is why when I have an RCM out I resolder every relay to board connection and external pin to board connection. Why not? I have it out anyway and the iron is hot so touch them all.

 

My car currently has no power at all, it's not the battery, or alternator. This morning the starter engaged about 3 times. i was able to start the engine with a marine battery. The hood wont shut with that. I inspected the module and the 20 amp fuse was bad, I fixed it the module looks good it's from 2011. I bought new terminals and another battery no change. I maxed out my skills, I had a mystery no start in 2011. Any help is appreciated. My 2nd pcm is here if further testing with it will help. Also have a body control module. Btw I will post on the mystery no start thread.

 

Saw where you tried to PM me. Mailbox is FULL!
Email me at


tighed1@hotmail.com

 

If you have a voltmeter check the voltage from the neg battery post (black lead) to the block (red lead) with the lights on fan on wipers on every accy on you can get on. The voltage should be 0.2 volts or less. Make sure you are on the battery post and not the battery clamp connector.

This will tell you if the ground lead is good or not.

You could also have localized grounds that could be bad for the powertrain control module or SKREEM.

 

I like that.
Better than metering the neg post to engine for ohms ......

 

I will check the voltage

 

Wonder what the outcome was.

 

He left this thread hanging, he had another thread going about the car not stopping started the previous day, he blouse that one and thanked people for there help.
Car will not start in one thread and car will not stop in another, that has got to be a first.
Always look at the OP's later posts as sometimes they offer a clue to what's going on.

 

I apologize to everyone. It did end up being the RCM. It was a blown Relay on the board itself. All of the connections were good and all of the solder points were good that's why all of the quick solder fixes didn't work. I did end up replacing the entire board. Sorry I haven't been active. Car has been sitting in the garage. Finally getting nice weather to take it out and have some fun with it again.