Yes both valve covers are leaking pretty badly and both need to be addressed as it looks like they are soaked and dripping oil down, its hard to tell from the pics if the oil is actually hitting the hot exhaust manifold yet but if not its not far away. That should be the #1 priority right now as it becomes a safety concern.

 

Hi. Today is the day! Working to resolve valve cover leaks. Removed screws I saw holding the top portion (Is that called the vent? oil filler cap is at that level). Could not remove it nor figure how to get the oil filler detached, so I started unbolting lower level screws/nuts for which a believe is for the actual valve cover (when I pull it up, I see timing chain). Can't get it off because of a hose/bolt.

Question: Could someone please share if it's OK to remove this bolt/hose (pic attached) without dire consequences such as having to bleed some system or something?

Have a few more questions re: this task (with pics).

1 - Found a screw that was missing. Not sure what it's called. What would be the recommendation for ordering it? The Stealer (lol).

2 - There is a port that had nothing connected to it. Looking at the pic, can someone please share what it should be connected to? Perhaps it was to connect to the original air intake system via some hose? Please take a look and let me know what you think.

I'm heading out to find a brush and the recommended sealant. Back on to check when I return.
Thanks All!!

 

You do not have to remove the valve covers.
Those vent caps are stuck on pretty tight, get something and start prying up at a corner, eventually it will come loose.
That picture is of the fuel feed line, looks kinda bad to me, I'd suggest you get that replaced.
Take the same bolt out of the other side from the missing one and go find a replacement.
That missing hose is the crankcase vent hose, not sure where it connects on the other end on a SRT6, but on an NA it connects to the intake just before the throttle body.

 

The "bolt/hose" that you show is the fuel inlet hose to the fuel rail as was mentioned. The frayed material is just a wrap for heat and rub protection.
1.) Intake manifold bolt. There are different sizes; that one is the shorter length of the three different sizes on the manifold.
2.) That large hose goes over to the passenger side intake tube port. Needswings aftermarket intake also has a port for this hose.
I'd recommend contacting Rob @ Needswings. He can hook you up with O.E.M. valve cover gaskets, manifold bolts, etc. Also, you may want to consider Needswings "CatchCan". Highly recommended, check it out!

 

Thank you all for the info. Well, guess I just made work for myself. Had already removed all the bolts for the valve cover. It has a rubber gasket. Strong texture still and looks real good. Going to reverse what I did to get the valve cover back on while the vent cover sealant is setting. Will check with Rob@Needswings for sure. To be continued...... :-)

 

Is that one of the bolts (screw) that ppl tend to snap? Lets hope that missing 'screw' does not have the lower portion still inside where it connects (broken bolt). Some of these bolts (screws) take very little torque to tighten to spec and 'stretch' when overtorqued. Good luck!


.

 

Very good point/observation. That could very well be the possibility.

 

The bolts that break are the small ones used on the vent covers, they are aluminum and ideally used only once.

 

Oh Yes -- I just found that out. Funky torque wrench and lack of experience = broken valve vent screws. Was not even using that much force. Single use for sure. Now, I gotta get these things out. Guess if I take the valve cover vent off again, I can unscrew the stub with pliers? Plz, if anyone has a suggestion, would surely appreciate it. Thx!

 

Yes, I had a broken one once and was able to use pliers after removing the vent cover.
This time, I chased all the threads with the proper tap before reassembly ( and used Rob's SS screws from NeedsWings ).
Many, including 100/80, will tell you not to use the SS screws, but after 4 years I have seen no issues and no leaks, so you decide.

 

My objection to the use of SS screws is that if they get damp in a salty atmosphere, road salt or a salty sea atmosphere they will eat the threads away.
If over tightening them they will strip the thread from he covers. I think that I would rather have broken screws than this other damage.
NeedsWings stopped taking intake manifolds for finishing with Teflon because of corrosion around the screws as I recall, probably due to galvanic corrosion.
Do what ever you please it is your car after all.
Fortunately my covers are not leaking yet.

 

Good point !
Luckily I do not live in a salty atmosphere area, and never get the engine wet, so I have not been exposed to the dreaded galvanicanation syndrome.

 

Hi Everyone,

I think I'm done with this project for now. Will call it a win thanks to guidance from the forum.

Valve cover leaks have been subdued. Most likely, they will be back since the heads of 2 screws were broken off during the reinstall. I was not fully prepared as I did not know I should use new screws prior to starting. I drove the heck out of the car after finishing and let it run a while. After the initial burnoff, no sign or scent or drip. It probably won't return before I put the car away for Winter, however, when I pull it out in Spring, I'll be prepared (ordered the valve cover screw set from NeedsWings ).

The fumes/burning smell has been greatly eliminated. Can't tell if it's 100% at this point because the scent is embedded in cabin, seats and probably air vents. Will have to let it air out a bit.

Overall, the car is bearable to drive now, however, as a result of all I did, I noticed a few things:

Noticeable Loss of Power - I am AMAZED at how much raw acceleration and power was loss by swapping the makeshift hot air intake system out with an OEM intake. Also gone, however is the general smell of gas. I could smell it through the exhaust when the car was running but standing still. I have no experience in all of this, but I'm guessing that the computer was over-compensating when it came to providing gas with the makeshift air intake in place.

Warmer Air from Air Conditioner - Noticed that the air coming from the air conditioner does not get as cold now. Does not have that chill. It's just barely cool. Don't know what could have caused this. Coincidence?

So now, on my list will be getting that dual cold air intake system from NeedsWings. I got kinda addicted to the power and acceleration that makeshift air intake provided.

We'll give it a bit to see if anything else pops up first.

Thanks so much all!!
JMW

 

On the A/C, it could be that the heater valve(s) are not completely closing.
Get a set of hose "clamp-offs" and clamp the hose shut before the valves ( the valves are the 2 just in front of the battery ). If this restores the cold, then a new set of valves or a valve overhaul is in order.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Piece-Rad...SIN=B0172I7S7A