air intake swap, now cel on
I already broke my new toy . last week installed sl55 intakes , sell forgot to ship tube that go from front of car to sir cleaners . installed the system minus front tubes . tested it and it was fast! after the 4th or 5th run it went into limp mode then thru a cel . pulled over did a tps recal and it didn't help .
next day installed front tubes, disconnected battery for 2 hours . hooked it back up did another throttle recalibration . took it for a run , had about 80% of normal power , then went into limp and thru a cel again .
today drove it , cel on. had good power but didn't get on it all the way.
does the computer take a while to relearn ?
should I not full throttle for a few days ?
any ideas ?
ordered a obd2 thingy and am downloading torque pro. wont have for a few days
next day installed front tubes, disconnected battery for 2 hours . hooked it back up did another throttle recalibration . took it for a run , had about 80% of normal power , then went into limp and thru a cel again .
today drove it , cel on. had good power but didn't get on it all the way.
does the computer take a while to relearn ?
should I not full throttle for a few days ?
any ideas ?
ordered a obd2 thingy and am downloading torque pro. wont have for a few days
How did you tie the SL55's down?
I ran my SL55's without the front tubes for a few months without issue - apart from rubbing on the hood liner during WOT's.
No CEL.
I'm thinking if they intakes were loose - they may have caused an error from something else..? Coil packs still all good?
Note - I have an SLK32 - same engine - maybe slightly different clearances.
I ran my SL55's without the front tubes for a few months without issue - apart from rubbing on the hood liner during WOT's.
No CEL.
I'm thinking if they intakes were loose - they may have caused an error from something else..? Coil packs still all good?
Note - I have an SLK32 - same engine - maybe slightly different clearances.
I moved the brackets like brian did , they are mounted securely . the car idles smooth and runs smooth , just less power and the cel . as soon as I get the torque pro hoked up I can find out the fault code maybe that might tell me something .
when u hooked up your sl55 intakes did you reset computer ? any learning issues ?
when u hooked up your sl55 intakes did you reset computer ? any learning issues ?
filters weren't that dirty but how did you know about the leaves ?
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
Last edited by king happy; Oct 6, 2016 at 05:48 PM.
filters weren't that dirty but how did you know about the leaves ?
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
I believe you are on the right track here. You are correct in assuming the CPU learns, I had that happen after I installed my exhaust and after I put in larger injectors. With the intake, no issues, but you will probably need a "tune" soon.
filters weren't that dirty but how did you know about the leaves ?
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
cleaned them out with air compressor and well change to k&n's soon .
codes went away today , car ran pretty strong if pushed to 90% throttle but then immediately lose power .
starting to think it may be my ic pump .
after I get on it hard and then pull up to a stop light it has no power . push the pedal all the way to the floor , has a 2 second delay and then slowly starts moving , like slower then a moped. I know its not officially called limp mode but I think it gives u a good idea .
well changed out the ic pump . checked the old one and it was an 010 bummer . put in the new 010 and it didn't fix the problem . Rob I think your right , thinking gas pedal sensor . obd2 thingy comes in tomorrow . hopefully I can see tps when driving on see if its not sending the proper signal .
ok , hooked up torque pro and it gave me the po123 code: throttle/pedal position sensor/switch a circuit high input . so it looks like Rob right again!
so how do I know if I should change throttle bodywith tps or gas pedal sensor ? where do u buy them from ?
so how do I know if I should change throttle bodywith tps or gas pedal sensor ? where do u buy them from ?
First, remove the TB and pop off the black plastic cover, clean the slider contacts and circuit board runs with contact cleaner, reassemble, and clear the codes.
May resolve your issue for little $$$$.
May resolve your issue for little $$$$.
.
well put in new gas peddle and did reset but didn't fix it . removed cover on throttle body and cleaned . then did 5 min battery disconnect and then another peddle recalibration . so start it up, no p0123 code . drive it and now it runs like a na car . supercharger wont kick in but it doesn't go into limp mode anymore . you can throttle all the way and it just runs like a car without a super charger . but when you get to the stop sign and then accelerate again the throttle works fine , so the problem where the throttle would go unresponsive is gone .
torque pro shows the throttle % only going to about 50% so i'm guessing throttle body is bad ? ordered used throttle body to swap out , so we'll see .
on the way home cel came on checked it again , no p0123 code but lots of others . now i'm really confused .
torque pro shows the throttle % only going to about 50% so i'm guessing throttle body is bad ? ordered used throttle body to swap out , so we'll see .
on the way home cel came on checked it again , no p0123 code but lots of others . now i'm really confused .
OK, WHAT OTHER CODES? Those codes are your BEST clue as to what's going on, because they tell you what the engine management computer is seeing.
I'm no expert in code reading, but my inclination would be to capture your list (as per your graphic) and then reset all your codes.
Run the car for a few miles and see what new ones come up and post that if different.
It is my understanding...some codes are originated by the act of disconnecting and reconnecting "stuff".
You could possibly try a Throttle body reset after that as well...and repeat above to see if things changed.
Note: The SLK230 preceded the SLK32 - the SLK32/C32 was the format on which the Crossfire was built after Chrysler bought AMG.
TB Reset (SLK230) from here
Open the door, put the key on the ignition, close the door.
Move start switch into position "2"
Press the gas pedal to the floor... past the kick down point
Hold the pedal there for 15 seconds
After 15 seconds while foot still planted, turn the key off but do not remove it
Release gas pedal... Wait at least 2 minutes while not touching anything in the car, don't open the door even.
After the 2 minutes start the car and drive off normally...
Run the car for a few miles and see what new ones come up and post that if different.
It is my understanding...some codes are originated by the act of disconnecting and reconnecting "stuff".
You could possibly try a Throttle body reset after that as well...and repeat above to see if things changed.
Note: The SLK230 preceded the SLK32 - the SLK32/C32 was the format on which the Crossfire was built after Chrysler bought AMG.
TB Reset (SLK230) from here
Open the door, put the key on the ignition, close the door.
Move start switch into position "2"
Press the gas pedal to the floor... past the kick down point
Hold the pedal there for 15 seconds
After 15 seconds while foot still planted, turn the key off but do not remove it
Release gas pedal... Wait at least 2 minutes while not touching anything in the car, don't open the door even.
After the 2 minutes start the car and drive off normally...


