I bought my SRT-6 back in May and I absolutely love it. I do have an issue that I’m not sure if there is a problem of if that is just how it is. While driving, if I “put it to the floor” for just a few seconds like while running quickly up the on ramp to catch an opening on the interstate or, more often just having fun with 350 hp, when I let off the gas it feels like something shifts hard in the trans and then I have no pull. It is like I’m in natural. I can put it in natural and back into gear and nothing, no pull. The car is simply coasting slower and slower. When I pull over and slow to about 15 or 20, it will reengage and drive fine. If I keep my foot in it and let off slowly it does fine of if I simple drive it like a 165 hp car it does fine as well, but what fun is there in that. I have to guess that there is an issue because hopefully this is not the norm.

 

4 things :
is the transmission fluid level correct ?
has the transmission connector been replaced ? ( prone to leaking on OEM )
has the transmission fluid ever been replaced ?
and last, could be the 'conductor plate' making intermittent contact.

 

I agree on the above. Having just replaced my connector, you need to get under the car and check the right front of the pan on the tranny. If tranny fluid is present. the connector plug is leaking. I am checking my roadsters today. You will also find, as Rudy explained, the fluid will ride up, yes up, the wiring to the transmission control unit located in the front floor board of the passenger side of the car. That little black box will have fluid on it and in it. No good as well. Conductor plates go bad as well as the pins you plug your connector into loosen over time making bad contact or intermittent contact. So in this case, you need to drop the pan, replace it. Rob, at Needswings has everything you need to perform this service. Plenty of YouTube videos that will help you do this yourself. Good luck...

 

Having had something similar in the past I would say that the cause could lie in the electrical plate in the tranny. Another car of mine had similar problems which went away and then came back. It started going to the second gear limp mode and then back to normal, finally it stayed in second gear and the problem was diagnosed as a sticky solenoid on the plate. This was in a Chrysler 300 that was less than a year old, and probably the worst car I have ever had for problems. It was a lemon. It had the same basic transmission.
If the car is leaking tranny fluid then you should find it on the garage floor, if it was leaking for a long time then you may be low on fluid as mentioned above.
If it has been leaking for ages then you could lift the passenger carpet and look under the foam pad over the amplifier for oil around the TCU. If there is a leak get it fixed ASAP and check the oil level.
Have you checked for any codes? The CEL does not have to be on for a problem.

 

You are experiencing the EXACT same symptoms I had, although mine was more intermittent than yours. See this thread. Explains the whole issue. Contacts on conductor plate move around and speed sensor loses connectivity. Harsh shift occurs, goes into limp mode, stays in 3rd gear, no supercharger.... you turn it off, let it cool, and it improves. Check your codes to see if any are related to speed sensor or other issues related. For me, it was the speed sensor contact losing connectivity the most. There are other contacts there that may also wobble and give different codes.

When doing the tranny fluid, do NOT use ATF+4. Shell ATF134 is specifically suited for the Crossfire and it's listed right on the label of the tranny fluid bottle. Watch the video. It's pretty self-explanatory. If you were low on fluid, it may give different issues (my connector was leaking also, changed that first, but it did NOT fix the overall issue). So, assuming fluid level is OK, do the fluid fix first. Or, just go for the whole nine yards and just change the connector, O-ring, and the conductor plate. I got my whole kit with connector, ring, gasket and conductor plate on Ebay for $77 total from some Mercedes Benz place in Phoenix, AZ. See the second link for the old listing, while it still exists

Video that describes in detail contact issues on conductor plate

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post875686



Conductor plate kit: germanpartsaver on Ebay (Phx, AZ), $77, free shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281509287166?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

OK, I thought these trans were sealed and units. How do I check the fluid level without a dipstick? I'll check for leaks and such when I get home. I'm in the Navy so I leave for weeks and months at a time sometimes.

 

Believe it or not, you have to BUY a dipstick from eBay, or you could use a long skinny tie wrap.
The fluid level is totally temperature dependent, you are supposed to check it with the engine/transmission at operating temperature.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission...-/201364414881

The top mark on the stick is 80 c, which is about 176 f, close to the normal operating temp of 186 f

 

See what the previous person said above. The dipstick I got on Ebay was $6.71 and was a coiled wire with a red triangular handle at the top, and a white plastic tip. Worked great. Replacement clip set for the top of the dipstick tube is like $5.00 for 5 of them.

See the pictures in this link for what they look like. Some people say that you can carefully remove the dipstick tube cap without breaking it (or the locking tab), using a small flat blade screwdriver to hold the tab back while prying it up.

Don't pay the prices for any stuff listed in this thread. Just look at the pictures.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ans-fluid.html

 

Already 'out of stock'. That is quite a good price for the whole kit too...


.

 

Ya, I must have lucked out. They are in Phoenix. Look them up on the web and either ask for when they will be back in stock or buy one with a credit card order and drop ship using GermanPartSaver. Could use Ebay to communicate with them or dig for their website.

Not sure if this is their website, but give it a shot: (you can sign up for their newsletter on their Ebay store)


Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Germanpartsaver


website:

German Auto Service - Phoenix, Arizona - Repair, Service, Parts and Sales of Fine German Cars - Serving Pheonix, Chandler, Mesa, Scottsdale, AZ

 

I have a dip stick. You are serving for me...so it is yours for free, just give me an address to ship it too.

 

For the cost of shipping, here's a new one for $7.00 shipped

1220mm 48" 140589152 Transmission Fluid Dipstick Tool for Mercedes Benz 722 6 | eBay

 

Just got back from deployment Monday. Today I went and changed the trans connector to stop the leak and get my car back on the road. After I changed it, my car went into limp mode. What in the world did I do? When I was putting it all together the plugs were having a tough time lining up so I tightened the 7mm bolt in the connector tighter that I was feeling comfortable with but then everything lined up and fit like a glove. Is there any chance I damaged the conductor plate?

 

Check your codes. If you got a P715 or 730, where it senses a difference in speed sensor circuits between the engine and transmission. Lots of threads out there regarding P715. Best one that fit my issue and was solved is this one as I exhibited the exact same problem. But, if you scrunched the connector or it's still leaking after your fix, that will cause issues again as well:


722.6 Transmission - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource




Excerpt:


Good evening Folks,
Hope this is in the right place. Run down of what I have, then the questions. I have a 2004 N/A Crossfire coupe, 36,500 miles Automatic transmission. Purchased this car in April this year. Not knowing much about them I felt it was running, handling fine. Then the strange things started to happen. Not all the time, pull up to a light, light changes and the car seems to have no power. Eventually it seemed to straighten out. The first time this happened I put it into reverse and it seemed to have no power. When I stopped the car, put it into forward it slammed in, put it into reverse, it slammed in. Went about my business came out started the car, back to normal. I read what I could find here on the forums and ended up taking it to a TRUSTED . The owner appeared to know quite a bit about this 722.6 transmission and suggested replacing the connector outside the transmission, not sure what it is called. It was saturated. The o rings appeared to be leaking by. This was changed and the contacts cleaned and dried. Out the door. Now I notice I can actually lightly feel the transmission shift, up, down. NICE. I took a short trip from home today, about 30 miles. The car seemed fine, although I felt it should have shifted into another gear. Engine seemed to be a little higher speed than I would have expected. I do have a on the car which makes it more noticeable. At 60-65 MPH the RPM's were between 25-2700. Step on the gas and the car would scoot. 65-70 MPH I was about 3000 RPM's. I have had 2 occasions of no power when stopping and starting up. I was able to shut the car off and restart and then it was back to normal. OH, NO CODES, no CEL and No pending codes this time. In the beginning I did have a P0715 pending code. Any and all help will be appreciated. At this time my thought is to go talk with Ted at the Transmission shop and see what he thinks. Maybe I have to replace the

connector plate

connector plate

. Like I said earlier, this car only has 36K + miles on it.

 

Took it and had the code checked. 763 Shift Solenoid. I have got to get this fixed! How would this come from changing the connector?
My wife and daughter are already asking me if I will drive a cruze or a dart, "a newer car with lower miles".

 

Check that general transmission fix link again for the shift solenoid code. The shift solenoids I believe are on the conductor plate. Try swapping that first. It doesn't take that much time. I actually found a full conductor plate "kit" (has everything, plate, connector, gaskets, filter) on Ebay for less than $100 at a German auto supply place in Phoenix, AZ. that was about 1 or 2 years ago. YourMechanic.com guy was an expert with the 722.6 transmission. Only cost me $300 total or thereabouts to fix. Make sure to use the right trans fluid.... I think it was Shell 134 specifically for MBZ/Crossfire transmissions. I have a YouTube video posted about the Crossfire conductor plate swap fix. Search on "conductor plate" and you will see the YourMechanic guy going over the reasons why the design of the originals suck and the newer replacement conductor plates' contacts are much thicker and make better contact under pressure/strain. Viewing the video, I believe you see not only the contacts on the conductor plate, but also those solenoids. The conductor plate can give you a pain in an otherwise really nice car for its time. If you are going to get into the transmission in the first place, replace it anyway, just to eliminate it. The labor will be more than the plate kit cost.

 

WHAT IN THE WORLD?!!!!
This is becoming so frustrating. Friday I got my parts in. I ordered the kit (conductor plate, connector, filter and gasket) from Germenpartsaver on ebay and it came in great. Sat. I go to the Auto Hobby Shop here on the base and rent a stall with a lift. Everything came apart and went back together great. No problems and all should be right with the world. I STILL have a 763 Shift Solenoid code. I went to O'Rileys and used their scaner and got the code. Cleared the codes and All should be wel with the world. I drove the 1 mile home, car still in limp mode but no CEL. Then I'm just mad. Got in Sun. morning to come in for my duty day and as soon as I put it in gear, the CEL shows up. I drove the 2 miles to work and I am racking my brain as to what the problem is. My wife is being no help telling me I should get rid of it, like I could even sell it like this even if I considered it, whitch i'm not but I am crazy frusterted. Do the Shift Solenoids go bad and if so , how do I check them. This all started because I had a leak. Wish I had just kept the leak now. Then at least I could actually drive my daily driver.

 

Wow, sorry to hear that, man. Check out a couple of these videos and links as there are 3 of them that need to be tested.

--- shift solenoids

---- conductor plate details and cautions

11:53 into this one below, it talks about cleaning the solenoids while replacing the conductor plate, and testing them.



If you are tired of wrenching on it, try contacting YourMechanic.com and ask for a Mercedes or 722.6 transmission specialist. A great guy from YM did my conductor plate for $192 in labor. Not sure if he tested the solenoids or not. I can't remember. Don't give up. Once it's fixed, you should be fine again and it's not like you blew a piston ring or have to take the head off and check for bent valves.... Frustrating though, yes, when you swap a part and the part attached to it needs more fixing.... requiring another takeoff.

 

I used the two conductor plate videos when I was researching how to replace mine. I'll check the video on checking my solenoids. I may just take it to a local shop that specializes in MB repairs and see what they say. I guess I will to drive across town at 25 mph. That will take a while and **** a bunch of people off. Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea anyway.

 

My 300 had basically the same transmission in it and it went into limp mode which uses 2nd gear if I recall, so it was a slow trip to the dealer.

The diagnosis was a faulty solenoid, this was rebuilt under warranty and I was good to go.
The transmission worked OK sometimes and then it would not, it slowly got worse until it was in limp mode all the time.