I've seen several posts highlighting Cracks on the SRT Fixed Wing Uprights. based upon previous threads this appears to be limited to the Roadster.

I've been fortunate enough to locate an SRT-6 Trunk lid equipped with Fixed Wing. upon arrival and inspection, I've discovered the dreaded cracks in the same location as those in all of the images I have seen.

Crap

Although I've seen posts about the problem, I have not been able to locate one that describes any sort of repair.

I'm going to repair mine. I'll post steps and images along the way. I'll also update it a few months on as to how the wing is holding after the repair

Products I'll be using (Images attached)
-Speed grip Urethane Structural 2 part Adhesive
-Carbon Fiber
-West System 105 Epoxy resin
-West System 206 Hardener
-Icing Polyester Finishing Putty

I'll update in a week or two once it warms up again in Western Canada

If anyone has repaired one successfully, I would sure like to hear about it. any i,mages and tips would be appreciated

 

First time seeing this, it must be limited to the roadster version of the set-6. I have over 180k on my set-6 coupe and no crack wing, the spoiler seal did fail and flood my trunk though.

 

Yes it appears to be limited to the roadster

What did you use to repair the seal?
Are you referring to the seals at the uprights or the seal around the NA style wing that the SRT Wing isbattached to?

 

Here is a thread I started on the coupe wing assembly and the leaks that occurred in the seal areas.
The seal is much better on the roadster by the look of it.
CLICK

 

For the SRT-6 coupe fixed spoiler, I used rope caulk. I removed the old seal and put a string of rope caulk along where the old seal is and I also removed the plug on the passenger side on the trunk floor so if it were to fail again it would at least leak out of the car. This was about a year ago, no leaks since.

 

 

I tested the thickness the seal was required to be in various positions and found a large variation, that is why I used a foam seal, as it conformed better. The coupe seal should be higher at the top Center opposition or a well is formed for water to sit. Dirt would also sit there, get damp and start rust. Some rope seals stick to the paint too well and it might be impossible to remove the wing again.others used a silicone seal and again it would be impossible to remove the wing later for whatever reason, maybe a poor seal and another leak.

 

I'll attest to the silicone seal being a pain to take off, mine didn't take and it was still leaking and I caught hell getting the wing back off.

 

180, would I be correct in assuming the foam used would need to be quite dense?

 

Yes, there are various types of foam seals and you want the neoprene type with minute bubbles in it, you must use the closed cell type so the water does not pass through the connected holes as it does in the open cell type. You really cannot see the bubbles too well at all. Make sure that the seal along the top does not have a well where water can collect.
I checked for leaks by looking in the rear holes with a mirror and a light after removing the interior trim, easier than taking the wing off and disturbing the seal. I have to take the trim off again to install a back-up camera so I will check again.

 

Thanks for the additional info.

 

I commenced with the repair today
Images below are with the 2 part Speed Grip structural adhesive

Before I applied the glue, I drilled into the crack at the ends to stop it from going further approx 7mm deep

I then used the Dremmel to “v grove out the crack 4mm across and 4-5 mm deep. In a few spots it wasn’t a deep enough and the crack went deeper. I just could take the groove deeper and risk the core structure.

I wanted to give the adhesive a lot of space to bond. Mission accomplished. This is day one. I’ll have to apply several more round of adhesive to build up the support and attachment to the wing before I lay on the carbon fibre.

This is the easiest XF job I’ve ever attempted

Stay tuned for more

 

Why Speed Grip 5? I would have thought Speed Grip 15 would be the correct product. I believe 5 remains a little flexible like a car bumper. Then I'm guessing you are putting the carbon fiber over this with the West ( excellent line of epoxy, used for bonding and finishing in the marine field) epoxy which will be hard non flexible.

 

They were both very similar
I selected the 5 because of the shorter set up time. I go through more tips but it allows me to build up the area faster (at least that’s the plan when work and weather don’t get on the way of my hobby

You are correct on the fiber, it will be applied overtop

The wing is not fibreglass the gel coat is approximately 2mm then you are into the solid core.
The coating is
-PUR-GF17
The core is
-PUR-GMK

I could not find a reference anywhere to PUR-GMK so I decided to use #5 as I’ve used it before and like the results.

It’s a small area and I’ll be building it up to attach at the top edge of the wing. Ultimately it will look a little different but will be much stronger.

Seeing as it’s a clone the only one who will care is me

In my city there are only 2 other SRT Roadsters. They’ll know but they may also have the same problem and be interested in a fix.

Great point on the 15, it could work as well.

I’ll post a few images once I build it up and after I apply the finer

 

I did not know the wing was without fiberglass. Thanks for your reply AND your project info.
I'm hoping for warmer weather too. It was 24F down here this morning which is far below the norm.

 

Finished with the glue

Now I’m shaping before I start on the carbon

Just with the glue alone, the wing will never break again

I’ll post images of the top once I’ve shaped both sides

It’s a lot easier that you may think
80 grit sandpaper and a paint mix stick to wrap the paper around
A curved tool (ie Long socket extension) wrapped with course paper to shape along the wing

More to follow

 

One side shaped
Left and right act as before and after

I can’t see it cracking ever again and I still have to apply the carbon fibre

 

Both sides shaped. Filling in and building up a few low spots with glazing putty (i’ll Require a few applications of Putty. 24 hour drying time) before I apply the carbon. I want the base to be perfect so that I don’t get any air pockets between the wing and the carbon.

 

For a repair like that there are several good products to use, Problem Plastic Adhesive and SMC Repair. Both can be used with a fabric mesh or fiberglass mat for additional strength. one of the most important steps is to V-groove the crack out entirely, which you have done, and grind and feather all paint away from the repair for good adhesion. Looks like you are using a glazing putty without a hardener. Definitely not recommended. That's more for very small imperfections. A two part glazing putty is superior as it will not shrink and adds a small measure of strength to the repair. Good luck with your repair.