My supercharger is still cutting out after a bit of driving (in the Texas heat) even after I had the intercooler pump replaced with a new 10 one from needswings. Ideas?

 

Hello,
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post893726
Maybe this tread can help you.

 

First thing to do is check that the new pump is indeed getting power and working. Be sure the system is purged of all air. After bringing engine up to temp., and with engine running and full coolant reservoir, carefully squeeze the coolant lines slowly several times, then do it again. Do you have an intercooler fluid isolation/separation installed? If not, do that. Then, a step further is the supercooler install. A heat exchanger upgrade is also available. Myself and others w/o supercooler have installed a fill tank to the intercooler coolant system to make it easier to inspect and fill; the supercooler has a fill neck and cap, so that isn't necessary if you go that route. Even after a few hot laps, I can dip my pinky into the fill hole and feel warm water, not too hot. In the intercooler circuit I run only distilled water with one bottle of "Chill Charger" additive. Another thought; how many miles on your car? I was thinking maybe O.E.M. thermostat sticking intermittently? Another mod that I've done is installed a little green led light mounted just under the hood lip facing me on the drivers side, so I can see when the supercharger kicks in and out.

 

Thanks for the reply. My car has 86,000 miles, and no intercooler fluid isolation/separation system. I see such a kit on Needwings, and I'll order that, and get the heat exchanger too.

What should I notice when I squeeze the coolant lines?

 

It would be wiser to solve the problem now rather than add parts that at do nothing to help your problem.
Maybe the heat even exchanger in the supercharger is leaking and is not working efficiently or the temperature sensor is faulty.
But check for air locks and check that the pump is running OK.

 

Probably nothing; unless you're looking into the coolant reservoir while you're squeezing and see some air purging out. It's just helping to ensure a free flowing system with no air lock or cavitation of pump. I agree with the above post; check the initial troubleshooting that I previously mentioned first. Make sure your new pump is actually pumping.

 

agreed 100%

As most on this board know, your problem is most likely IAT (intake air temp) exceeding max limit .
and, SINCE you have not isolated your charge cooler system (from your engine cooling system), you can rule out a leak in your charge cooling system (IF your engine coolant tank is not low).

That leaves you with IAT sensor failure (which I've not heard of happening, but I suppose it is possible) Or failure to circulate water in system.

SINCE your problem is clearly 'failure to circulate water in system", replacing parts (that are working) and isolating cannot solve the problem (unless by coincidence you purge the air in the process).

As has been mentioned, you need to investigate your "failure to circulate water in system". You have replaced the pump ... did you check the fuse (13)? Did you take steps to purge the air at the input of the pump? (do this by squeezing and releasing hose pump entry (WHILE it is running if possible).
I like to run a jumper wire to temporarily "hot wire" the pump. This allows you to both identify that it is running and it makes purging the air much easier. You can jump directly from the battery to fuse 13 (see diagram).

Hope that helps,
Chris

 

Okay, so I jumped the pump and the pump worked (I could hear it). I tested Fuse 13 while in the fuse box and there is no power. I replaced it with another fuse and there is still no power. The fuses themselves tested ok. Does this mean there is something wrong with the fuse box itself? Other than a fuse bypass cable, is there another more permanent solution?

 

no, this does not mean anything definitive except that your pump and pump wiring is good. The Ecu only gives the pump a drive signal when certain conditions are met, so it comes as no surprise that it is not running now. I have heard of someone replacing the "Pulse module" and solving the problem, but I have only heard that once.

Some folks have switched over the pump to run off of circuit15 (ignition in "run" position) though I am not suggesting that you need to do that
HOWEVER.....
Did you attempt to get all of the air out of the system while you had the pump hot-wired? Repeatedly squeezing and releasing the hose that runs into the the pump (center of pump face) WHILE the pump is running is usually an effective way to do this.

 

This exact same thing happened to me. Regretted ever throwing away the first IC pump, could have still been functional. My dad and I just ran a hidden wire from the fuse box straight to the IC Pump so when the car is on, it's on. Haven't any problems since.

Problem is my car had a squirrel living in it for a while, I had assumed some chewing on some wires, so I wasn't all that fond of chasing it down and found hot-wiring the thing from the fuse box to be best option for me. Be sure to include your own fuse.

 

Ok, you could have loosened the hose to the pump when it was running until it leaked coolant into a pan. Then you would have known there was no air block. Might be better with the engine running.🤔

 

P10104621

P10104591
It's so much easier to see what's going on with the fill reservoir modification. To see if it's running, purge air, check temp., check level, and fill. BTW, you can get the pump to start running(if it's a good running pump of course)while stationary, by power braking the engine until it reaches the load/r.p.m. threshold to signal the pump to start running. And it will remain running. Additionally, the tank cap has a small vent hole, so it's always auto-venting. Never does it ever get hot enough to pressurize and blow coolant. Most of this info. I learned from "Waldig" here.

 

I got one of those tanks (BMW?) and never put it on as I was never too sure of how it fitted in.

 

Yes, the BMW power steering reservoir is what I used as well. If you look closely at the second pic., you'll see a vertical piece of aluminum stock(painted black)fastened to an existing female threaded attachment point on the fan shroud. From there, it's simply fastening the tank to the vert. flat stock w/ a S.S. hose/band clamp. I can measure the flat stock dimensions that I used if that would be helpful to you. After all the plumbing is installed, it is very stable there.

 

I missed something on how to do the plumbing for it. Thanks for the reply.

 

for this set up, I like...

... adding an overflow tube to the cap (thread a small hose fitting into existing vent hole in BMW tank cap and then attach a short length of aquarium air line to that).

...using a clear tube from the added fitting on the side of the tank (going to the nipple on the alum tube heading under SC).This allows you to see the water/air level

... using a mix of distilled water and "water wetter" (probably a bad idea in super cold climates)

... adding an air-bleed line to any aftermarket heat exchanger that I add (w/schrader valve at end) see pic below


Other bits that apply to this install
I don't know if the fan shroud on the SRT6 is the same as my slk32 (assume it is), but I like to mount my tank using these to boss that I tapped out (see pic below)

As part of this install, the 3/4" (or so) hose is removed from the coolant recovery tank. I have found the rubber caps (intended for plugging off bypassed heater lines, etc) seem like a nice way to go, but DO NOT last. instead, make a plug (the okie way?) by cutting off a short length of hose (2.5" or more) and attaching it to the tank then clamping a plug in the end. OR, if you have a coolant tank from an NA you can swap that in.

HTH,
Chris


"air bleed" shown on my SL55's Heat Exchanger, but you get the idea


Tapping out cast-in bosses in fan shroud to mount BMW tank

 

Just now seeing this. Good job with the pic.'s and air bleed idea Chris. I had to laugh about the rubber caps not lasting, I learned that the hard way too. Heat cracked and leaked WAY before I would have thought. Cheap,schlocky rubber? Do they make better, heat rated rubber caps?

 

I have tried the Rubber caps more recently and found them to be just as fragile. So, for the port on the expansion tank, I always make the aforementioned redneck-plug OR, I use an NA tank (which omits this port). AND, for the extra (unused) port on the bottom of the BMW tank, I will first fill the rubber cap with RTV (enough so that some will be forced into the plastic fitting) then install it with a suitable clamp.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Very good idea, Thanks.