anyone have this problem?
after a fast acceleration and coming to a stop the engine will act like it is going to stall and no response at all from the gas pedal, the engine will idle rough for a few seconds and than the rpm will go up and than back down to normal and all if fine ( this does not happen all the time )
any ideas (took to dealer and found no codes and could not duplicate the problem)

 

Bump. Having same issue.

 

More then likely a short if the Throttle body or TPS.

 

having the exact same problem, only had the car for a few weeks & it sat on a lot for months

 

I have the same issue as well.
I was thinking gas filter or fuel pump.
BTW are you guys running a sprint booster, I am and was thinkng maybe it's a contributor.
Stan

 

I had this problem a month after I bought mine. Something else threw a code, and the crank angle (or cam angle) sensor had a problem. I can't recall exactly what it was, but that was the fix. For some reason, I think the connector or somehting else was a bit loose.

 

You may want to do a throttle reset. Search the forum for more info.

 

I just scanned the codes of my computer history, and the code was:
P0335
Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

Hope this helps.

 

CPS, it will eventually fail.....there is plenty on here about it and where to buy the least expensive replacement...in fact, I am sure someone will post up the info...

 

mine did the same thing, the problem was the air cleaner was not seated properly, re-seated the air cleaner and all is fine (this happened after I had the dealer change the oil, they also did not re-install the 2 air hoses properly)

 

Had the same problem with a leak in the air intake,

 

I just tried 2 throttle resets & I thought it fixed the problem.But it still occured just not as often, it helped. So I am making a injector flush kit to try next

 

Had the same issue, and the dealer claimed they all do it (of course they do..)

Switched to Redline 5W40, and MANN fleece oil filter... Doesn't stumble anymore, seems to run quieter (almost all of the valve tick is gone... honestly), and seems to be a little more peppy (especially at higher RPM's).
Red Line Synthetic Oil - 5W40 Motor Oil

I have always run ester based oil (Motul factory line 300V) in the bike (fully built 2005 yamaha R1..168.4 rwhp) and know how much better it is after tearing down the motor this summer after 48,000km's. Next to no noticable wear on valves, cams, etc. Every part was still within factory spec. To put this into perspective, my bike doesn't get treated "nicely". Either I'm riding over 10,000RPM on the track/backroads or I'm in a parking lot on one wheel (see avatar....or my photobucket link: Pictures by squidrider - Photobucket )

Not a sales pitch...I'm not your local neighborhood AMSOIL rep...lol ....

Try running any ester-based oil (Motul: 300V, 8100 X-Cess, Redline, etc..) that is MB 229.3 or 229.5(extended drain interval) approved your next oil change, and I can pretty much guarantee you will notice a difference. The Mobil1 in our vehicles is not a true synthetic... It is made from Group 3 base heavily refined petroleum oil with POA additives. Do a search and you will see for your own eyes...

Hope that helps someone...

 

Well I pulled the air filter assembly off to have a look at the throttle body & plugs & found that the back clips were bent in so that the filter assembly did not sit on the throttle body properly. I checked the plugs, fixed the clips & reinstalled the filter assembly. PROBLEM SOLVED runs & idles great. I don't know how long it was like that letting dirty unfiltered air into the engine? I am hoping that it was done when the dealer changed oil just before I bought it.