Guys, so Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker is the RTV sealant of choice?
Need to do mine soon and would like to do it only once. Already got the bolts from Rob.
Thanks in advance.

 

It was for me. Black tube says for maximum oil resistance and ultra-grey says for max torque and temp. Chemical compositions are different but forum members have had success with both.

 

I still like the Mercedes rtv sealant the best by far, I apply it a bit thicker than OEM.

 

A MUST is having both surfaces absolutely clean of any debris or film of any type. That with the correct amount of sealant will insure a tight seal between the surfaces. All too often finger oils or other debris prevents the sealant from properly matching to the mated surfaces.

 

This condition is a MUST when performing this repair.

 

From my perspective, both products are well suited for this application. If you look up the products on the Permatex website, you'll find the following applications listed under Automotive:

Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, transmission pans (Ultra-Grey), intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps (Ultra-Grey), thermostat housings (Ultra-Grey), differential covers (Ultra-Black)"

The operating tempature range (-65F to 500F) is identical for both products. You probably would achieve a good seal using either of these products. But to the original question, the consensus amongst the Forum Members is the Ultra-Black product. I personally used the Ultra-Grey product with excellent results to-date.

Technique & procedure is a major contributor to the success of this repair. And we all agree on that point.

Good luck with your repair.

 

Amen to that! If you choose not to remove the oil fill tube (I didn't), make sure you let the breather cover dry right side up before applying sealant. If you don't, oil will "weep" from this area no matter how well you may think you've cleaned it. I cleaned it twice, and still had oil so I stayed the course and cleaned a couple more times especially around that area until it stopped. If you don't, that slight bit of oil will contaminate the procedure, and you won't get a thorough seal. I let the cover sit overnight (right side up) and checked before I applied sealant.

 

I would like to remove the oil filler tube and have the cap directly on the valve cover. I have twisted and turned this umpteen times and it has failed to move. Someone said you slightly tilt while turning - nope. Someone else said you have to push the catch thing down inside.
I do not yank it hard as I do not want something breaking and falling inside, any clues here? I gotta to be doing something wrong.
Thanks in advance.

 

There is a catch on the backside of the tube that hits a protrusion on the valve cover.
I put a large screwdriver in there and lift up on the tube catch while twisting counterclockwise.
( I used a small Sears strap wrench on the tube ).
( I also used black touch up paint to cover the boo boo caused by the screwdriver - my covers are black crinkle )

 

Is there any trick to getting the breather covers off the valve cover? I attempted this repair a few months back, got all the screws out ok but was afraid of bending the breather covers when I attempted to pry them off the valve cover. It seemed to be needing an excessive amount of force to break the seal. It was the middle of the winter and I decided to give up for warmer weather. Any tips appreciated. - Thanks

 

No tips other than use a longer pry bar and start at a corner.

 

That's what I used... and I got two tubes from Needswings. Imaging that! I really should have gotten the applicator "gun" as well. That stuff it a real bugger to push out while using only the plastic ram that comes with it. My right hand was sore for two days afterwards from trying to push the sealant out of the tube.

 

I just saw this reply, better late than never I guess.
I did as you said and it came off. The spring inside gives just enough to lift the tube over the catch.

 

I used a box cutter to score the seam between the breather cover and the valve cover (See dtinker's message earlier in this thread). I also remember warming up the engine for a bit, and that seemed to make it easier. I then used a 1/4" flat-blade screwdriver. On the driver's side breather cover, there is a slight overhang (lip) near the oil fill tube. I placed the screwdriver under that lip, held the screwdriver with my right hand and s l o w l y applied (lifting) pressure with my left hand near the blade. If you're tempted to twist the blade, look very carefully at the seam to make sure that the metal is NOT deforming. Aluminum and alloys are very soft, compared to steel. With luck, you should see the seam start to widen. Good luck!


Do NOT buy replacement screws from MB. They are 18mm and 2mm too long for this job! If you're using stainless steel screws, remember that aluminum will give before steel :-) I went with aluminum replacement screws. Replacement screws, steel or aluminum, will have Allen heads instead of Torx. I read somewhere in the MB forum to torque the screws to 4 Nt-m. This translates to 36 in-lbs. I used anti-seize on the threads so I only torqued to 30 in-lbs. As a test, I installed one of these screws in a nut, put it in a vise and torqued to 36 in-lbs, and the screw head didn't snap. As mentioned in several threads, the bigger E-bolts should be torqued to 7 ft-lbs or 84 in-lbs. I torqued to 80 since I used anti-seize.

 

Thanks for all the tips, I'm going to attempt a repair again tomorrow, using new stainless bolts with anti seize on the threads. I'll just have to have a little more patience with removing the covers.

 

To report back, I successfully sealed the breather covers on May 17, so far no leaks, I removed the valve covers to do this figuring it would keep me from dropping any old sealant into the engine. I am glad I did because the gaskets were starting to harden in some areas, which would have been another headache down the road a bit.

It was an all day project, but I took my time to be sure all the old sealant was removed.

 

Went through all 11 pages. My breathers are starting to seep a bit. Makes engine look gross when I show it at car meets. Noticed no one mentioned a part number to the main big valve cover gaskets. FelPro VS50758R for around $22 shipped online for a set. I believe that will fit our application.

While I have it all off I plan on getting it powdercoated. Can they be powdercoated? They are magnesium alloy.

As for gasket I am surprised only 1 person mentioned "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. Really good stuff.
Gasket Makers : Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker

 

Ok, you guys. I wanted to take my entire valve cover assemblies off and do this right. The passenger side one was a breeze -but the driver's side not so much.

I managed to wrestle the hoses off the driver's side breather cover by taking the breather cover off first. But I can't get the driver's side VALVE cover off as the gas line is in the way. Was this an 07-08 thing? Or an N/A thing?

Or do all cars have the gas line in the way? I'm not comfortable undoing the line from the fuel rail assembly.

 

yes the fuel line needs to be disconnected


wrap a rag or 2 around the connection above the valve cover on the fuel rail, crack the lien loose, make sure you soak up as much fuel as possible and maybe switch out the rags for 1-2 more dry ones by the time all the fuel is done dripping, wear safety glasses and do it on a cold motor

 

Ok, got it. Now, I tried pressing on the little needle on the end of the fuel rail (used for measuring pressure?) and I got nothing but a small drop of gas. The car had sat four days at this point - would it be normal for the fuel pressure to bleed down completely in that time, Rob?

Also, anything I should know about removing and reconnecting the line OTHER than the obvious: do not allow ANY contamination in there? Obviously I will reconnect and check for leaks under pressure before I drive the car....

(I'm about to use the bolts and gaskets you sent me!)