On each valve cover there is a smaller cover that looks to be smog related. The one on the driver side has six bolts, three smaller that the other three. Does anyone know the proper torque for these bolts? I can not find them in the manual.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

I have access to dealerconnect, and both N/A and SRT 6 valve covers should be 7 ft/lbs (84 inch pounds).

 

it took about 3 turns to break 1 of the bolts on mine. my .02 would be to replace them with grade 5 allens or new bolts from the dealer. real pain to drill and ezout the broken bolt

 

The smaller Torx Socket Head Cap Screws are made of aluminum and the 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs) is the spec for a metric SHCS made of steel (see attached). If you use the 84 in-lbs on the smaller screws, you'll shear the head off. For sure with aluminum; possibly with a steel version. I say this because the XFire Service Manual I have on CD shows the 7 ft-lbs applied to valve cover bolts (larger Torx Head), not the "breather cover" Socket Head Cap Screws.

The other file I've attached shows torque rating for screws of various metals & alloys. It's for English specs, but can be used. (Note: And don't ask me why the torque ratings in this file differ significantly from those listed in the other file. Wish I knew why the difference. Something else for me to do in my spare time!) An M5 metric screw is just slightly bigger than a #10 machine screw (0.197" vs. 0.190"). You'll see that the torque rating for a steel grade #10 screw is only 21 in-lbs, not 84 in-lbs! And if the screw is made of aluminum, the torque value is 14 in-lbs! Might as well say "finger tight". I wouldn't recommend anything more than "snug tight". Most folks will tell you to replace the aluminum SHCS's with new ones if you remove them. Aluminum material is just too soft to hold up to repeated assembly. They were used more for corrosion resistance due to the exotic alloy of valve covers. Besides, if you tighten the "breather cover" screws too much, you'll force the RTV gasket material out and the oil leak-seepage will come right back. You want the gasket material to do it's intended job. Using the right RTV gasket material is critical. More to come later.

As stated previously, I sheared off one of these during my repair effort and had to use an "easy-out" to get the screw thread out. Not really a big deal, if you have the very small "easy-out" drill & bit, but it just gets under your skin when you feel that head shear off.

Do yourself a favor and go to a nearby Lowe's (or a good local hardware store) and purchase 5 Metric SHCS's. If you can finds SS - Great! If not, for sure get the carbon steel version at Lowe's. The size needed is M5-0.8x16. You can then apply some reasonable torque (approx 24 in-lbs) to these during re-assembly of the "breather cover". We've got a really good local hardware store here in SVL and I found the SS versions there.

I don't recommend purchasing these "breather cover" screws from Chrysler. The ones you'll most likely get will be plated steel (which is OK) but the size will be M5-0.8x18 (more readily available in an English-spec society). The extra 2 MM length won't allow you to tighten up the screw because it "bottoms out" in the tapped hole (my experience). Besides, you can buy all 5 CS metric screws at Lowe's for what Chrysler wants for 1 plated-steel SHCS!

I also recommend that you use Permatex Ultra-Grey RTV Gasket Maker (or equivalent) on the "breather covers". This product is better suited for vibration-sensitive assemblies and will perfrom much better in this application. My repair has been flawless thus far with no signs of seepage or leakage of any kind. And again, over-tighten the mounting of these "breather covers" to the valve covers and no RTV gasket maker material will hold up.

And I didn't have to remove anything else to repair the "breather covers" (exception being the engine cover & air inlet tubes). No need to disconnect or remove the coils on either valve cover. You just have to be careful taking the vacuum hoses off that run from the "breather covers" over to the throttle body.

Good luck with your repair.

 

After some further searching, the chart with torque values for various alloys is indicating a "recommended" assembly value. So this chart may be somewhat conservative in its application. But for the record, I followed this chart rather than the other one.

There are other threads throughout the Forum on this breather cover repair. I know I've replied on several others. So there is quite a bit more in & around here to provide you with other perspectives. Here's one of the better ones I found: Valve Cover Leak

I'd recommend you search a little further and then use that combined information to decide on a path forward.

Later,

 

Thanks for sharing !!!

 

Needswings Performance Products sells a set of teflon coated valve covers and the proper MB sealant for this engine, maybe they could reveal the correct procedures for re assembly.