I installed my new manifolds yesterday. I didn't even start the car until today to let the locktite set up. So this afternoon I hopped in the car and drove off to the dyno. A few moments of heavy footedness but mostly just getting to where I was going. The results took me by surprise. I was expecting a lot more hp but what I got was torque. 19 ft. lbs. more from 3000 rpm to redline. The horsepower was 13 more from 3000 rpm to redline. The mixture leaned out from .3 to .4 from 3500 rpm to 4500 rpm and then again from 5500 rpm to redline. I was running rich from before so I still feel comfortable running without a revised tune for now. I plan on getting one soon anyway, just not urgently.

The numbers are: 352 hp and 338 tq. The dyno is a Mustang dyno. Temperature was 82º and the shop is at 200 ft. above sea level.

Les

 

I am guessing you are referencing the manifolds that Needswings builds vs. their modified stock manifolds.

I am running the modified manifolds and very happy with the results. Unfortunately I was unable to do a before and after dyno.

 

Yep, top of the line thermal coated manifolds by Rob the master of all things SRT-6. I've only driven to the dyno and home since the instal but the bottom end feels real nice. I think the increase in power is from idle to redline. It's impossible to go WOT before 3500 on the dyno so I don't have proof. The butt accelarometer say it's so.

Les

 

Sounds like you need to talk to Jerry/Eurocharged about the TCU tune...no downshifting after that tune. It will hold the gear you choose.

 

Just to be clear, these were bolted on with no port matching. Port matching is something I'll do in the future. Anyone have similar, better or worse results?

Les

 

I don't believe this is true, rather than holding the gear at the top of the RPM range it doesn't downshift unless you tell it to. So a recap and I'm sure Steve will chime in. You still don't have to upshift because it'll do it for you (at a slightly increased RPM level [6200 rpm I believe]) but you do have to downshift because it'll hold whatever gear you end up in.

 

I feel like we are saying the same thing...


...what I was trying to say was that when you get on a dyno after the TCU tune, you won't have to worry about the car shifting gears from the one you want to be in...i.e. a 3rd gear pull it would shift into 2nd if you dip in the throttle too much.

...then again, if you get a dyno operator who knows what they are doing it won't happen anyways.

 

We are saying the same thing. My apologies.

 

Now that were all on the same page my car shifts at 6200 more or less. Every gear seems to have it's own shift rpm. (Eurocharged tune) I like the fact that the transmission upshifts at redline without being told to. I'd like quicker shifts and be able to command the transmission into a higher gear. It's better to be lower in the rpm range coming off a corner and be able to go WOT than be at the top of a gear and have to be gentle or worry about a gear change in the middle of the corner.
I'm the bozo en the car on the dyno. It takes practice to get as much throttle as possible at 2000 rpm without a downshift. I roll into the throttle but don't go past the kickdown switch until between 3500 and 4000 rpm.
A TCU tune is in my future but it's not next on my list. Next are the headers.

Les

 

Have you decided on which TCU tune you'll be getting?

 

No I haven't decided yet. When I'm ready I'll call Speedriven and Eurocharged for more information about their offerings. All I know at the moment is what I've read here and on MBworld.

Les