I've diligently researched all the forum postings regarding the I/C pump, the failing stock Bosch I/C pumps and installation of a replacement Johnson CM30 pump. My original Bosch pump was definitely failing so following the excellent PDF guide in the forum, I carefully installed a new Johnson CM30 Pump. At the same time I did the TunaGlove I/C system separation and reservior install exactly as shown here . . .

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post618932

Here is my problem / question: I cannot confirm that the newly installed Johnson Pump is actually running. Fuse #13 is good. Engine hot or cold I cannot see any flow coming through the system and into the new reservoir. What actually triggers the I/C pump to come on? I had presumed it turned on whenever the key was on but now believe that's not the case as I've seen a couple of posts that reference a rewire of some sort that would have the I/C pump come on whenever the key is on but I cannot find any specifics on how to accomplish that.

I opened up the wheel well again to access the new pump. I confirmed that the pump does not seem to be running at all. Troubleshooting the pump I've even connected the pump directly to a 12V source and it doesn't come on. So . . . I've ordered ANOTHER new Johnson CM30 pump believing the unlikely senario that the new pump I installed must have been defective. Before I intall another new pump I seek some advice to better understand exactly how / when the I/C pump should kick on and how to set it up so it comes on whenever the key is on / engine is running.

H E L P . . .

 

If you had a faulty pump before, the car must have been sluggish.
Now with a new pump, drive the car for a while, step on it, then slow down, step on it again. If you have power, new pump works. If still sluggish, you are out of luck.

 

rv the car to 2000 rpm this engages the pump until the car is shut off. or run a fused jumper from the pump fuse to the power block under the fuse box. this allows the pump to run whenever the ignition key is on.

did you check to see that you soldered the wires properly? neg to neg and power to power?

 

OK so when the engine RPM exceeds 2000 RPM the I/C pump should kick on and stay on until the engine is turned off, right? . . . THAT is good information.

Yes, I am sure that I had the new pump wired correctly + to + and - to -

After the installation I did a short test run getting the engine up to operating temperature and doing a few speed runs . . . the car ran great with the supercharger definitely working but when I got it back home I noticed that there was no I/C coolant flow going into the reservoir and I was concerned that the newly separated I/C cooling system was not flowing at all. That's when I started to troubleshoot the pump and could not confirm that the pump was ever running. I disconnected the wiring and hooked up the pump directly to a 12V power source . . . the pump did not come on. Has to be a defective pump, right?

 

Well I would ask the specialists here on the forum but I think the SC already kicks in above 1000 rpm. There is a youtube video where they check it. Also check waldigs youtube clip on his supercooler. he speaks alot of the cooling pumps etc.

Good luck with all!

 

This should help :https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-pump-srt.html

 

I'll agree with you about a faulty pump. I seem to recall a thread awhile back with this same issue; maybe grip grip? I think he had to kick start the pump(not that you should have to)with 18volts or something like that. Or maybe it was a fuel pump he had the problem with; I forget. Anyway, you could also try tapping it(lightly)with small hammer while it is direct wired. One of the benefits of the spit tank Mod, is that you can see the flow and ensure it's running. I remember when I completed this Mod, I started the car and looked in the tank; no action, WTF! Then I remembered that we have to get it to initially kick on by taching it up to about 2,000rpm. This must be the same signal that triggers the SC to engage I assume. Also, remember it takes a long while to get all the micro bubbles out; this is normal.

 

Here is the link to the video and test that Waldig did. He states that he revved the engine to kick on the pump, then the pump will stay running as long as the engine is running, regardless of whether the S/C clutch is kicked in. Hope this helps.


RL

 

THANKS to everyone that responded in this thread and for providing excellent information and links. You've taught me everything that I needed to know. I'm convinced that the first new Johnson CM30 pump I installed was DOA. I should have the second new pump delivered tomorrow. I will install it and update everyone on the outcome. Thanks again . . . Bob Davis

 

Good morning . . . I received the second new Johnson CM30 pump yesterday afternoon and installed it this morning. Everything works perfectly now! The original new pump that I installed was definitely defective and is being returned for credit.

Now I've discovered another issue! The bearing in the pulley shown below is bad. What is it called so I can try to get a new one? Is that a "stealership only" part?

So now it's on to replacing the bad pulley, installing my new blue powercoated AMG intake manifolds and blue powdercoated valve covers, installing an oil catch can and deciding whether to send the big bucks to Rob for the NeedsWings DCAI. Then I have to change the oil and filter, replace the cabin filter, remove the rear spoiler and seal that mounting up correctly, install the HID headlight system, finish with some of the other LED lighting changeovers . . . Geeees . . . It seems like the list of mods and fixes is never ending but I'm having fun with it and it's rewarding to be able to do it yourself! THANKS to all the talented contributors on this great Crossfire forum!


dcp_3861.jpg

 

I may be wrong but I think thats the idler pully!

 

RED DOG

From the looks of the parts catalog, the pulley to which you refer is the "Tensioner, Supercharger Drive Belt". The catalog lists 2 part numbers for it, and they are:

05143092AA
05159903AA

Not sure why the two part numbers, but the stealership might be able to shed some light on that. I did find the first part number for about $80 here:

TENSIONER. Supercharger Drive Belt. for CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE (2005, 2006) (05143092AA)

Don't know if this is the same pulley, but it is listed as the idler pulley for an SLK 32 and ~looks~ similar:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...0Pulley/Roller

There might be other places that have it as well - best I could do on short notice. As far as getting a replacement bearing, you might just have to pull it and take it to a local bearing house to see if they have a match for it.

Good luck!

RL

 

Don't know if this is the same pulley, but it is listed as the idler pulley for an SLK 32 and ~looks~ similar:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...0Pulley/Roller

WOW RL67037 . . . THAT'S GREAT. My stealereship had qoted me $108.00 for that pulley. I checked the measurements on the MB pulley at the Autohausaz link you provided and it certainly seems to be the correct pulley. I just ordered it! THANKS again. Will you be at the Fall Tail of the Dragon GTG? I owe you a drink (or two or three or . . .)

 

that pulley is the idler pulley not the tensioner pulley. costs about 25$ from the dealer. take a bu=it of advice. these pulleys are junk every idler pulley is crap. buy the needswings pulley saver kit and forget about them

 

I'm sure that's good advice. I already ordered the idler pulley but I will check out the NeedsWings pulley saver kit. I remember reading something about that but didn't study it at the time because I didn't think I needed it. Looks like more money may be going to Rob! . . .

 

Or try this!

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...than-25-a.html

 

dj that helps with belt slippage but doesnt address the crap pulleys that m/b used . thats why i suggested the psk as it eliminates the pulleys and replaces them with better units

 

Needswings Pulley saver kit for SC pulley works very well. Installed it last week!

 

Hi T1,

Thanks for jumping in on this thread. I've read many of your threads / posts on this forum and have respect for your expertise and experience. I read through your entire thread on the DIY belt rewrap. So what I'm coming away with in the end is to to remove my (bad) idler pulley and then properly (grade 8 bolt, etc) mount the new idler pulley down in the existing hole above the alternator. That is the end result of the re-wrap thread as it concluded . . . RIGHT? I realize that your intent was to get a better "wrap" on the S/C pulley to prevent slippage.

My focus, however, is to prevent future failure of the idler pulley. The failure issue with the idler pulley is caused because it simply spins at too high RPM and a premature bearing failure is imminent. I don't see how moving the idler pulley location changes anything to address the idler pulley too high RPM issue?

It would seem that the currently available Waldig / Needswing pulley saver kit better addresses / resolves the idler pulley premature failure issue by eliminating the idler pulley and substituting larger pulleys that will spin more slowly. Am I getting that right or am I missing something?

 

Hello FUBU, THANKS for your contributions to this thread. Regarding the Waldig / Needswings pulley saver kit, I'm confused as to which part number pulley saver kit to order. All of my engine pulleys are stock. What is the correct Pulley Saver Kit part number for me?