The biggest problem with the cork gaskets is the cork O rings. The manifolds end up listing towards the O's. Next time I'm using metal washers instead of the cork O's. I just need to measure the compression around the ports on my old ones to use the correct size washers. (thinking out loud ..... again)

Les

 

toss the cork gaskets. if you arent pushing 20+ psi no need to spray copper. just use new oem gaskets and you will be fine. and thread tape never hurts just dont get it across the sensor

 

I agree with you Les, both times the O cork rings have come apart after torquing. I like the shim washer idea.

I only have a 62mm sc pulley right now but am already used to the added gains. I think I will end up like some others including you Steve and stack. But for now, that's good to know.

Also, is center out considered center of the car/engine out to the wheels or center of the intake manifold out towards the front and back?

 

i go inside (closest to the s/c) 2 bolts outside 2 bolts then front and rear to 5 ft/lbs repeat to 10 ft/lbs then repeat again to 10 ft/lbs. i use a in/lb torque wrench as the torque is low to begin with and a 3/8 drive shoots past quickly

 

i would also suggest you pull out the boost senor and reinstall it with a little teflon paste on the threads

we have never tried the copper spray on the rubber/cork gaskets, it may be slippery and letting the gasket slipout durring toqueing, try the 3m super 77 spray adheasive

 

Thanks for the sensor info.

I pulled the manis tonight and should win an award for worst install ever.
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Here are the OEM metal with copper spray drying
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Here are the old cork ones, look ok but a little too much compression at the backs
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What was the torque that you were using on these?? Woody

 

Ok. You get the award for biggest cork failure. Were you drinking? J/K ......

Les

 

I know little about cork versus OEM seals but an OEM seal with a dried application of any sealant material looks doomed to failure in my mind. The sealing face has to be flat and squashing some sealant of varying thickness evenly all around is not likely.

Going back years cork was and is still crap, even the mixed rubber and cork seals were crap as they both hardened and leaked, needing replacement too often for my liking. The best way to use cork would be to use less torque on the screws than the OEM specs to maintain some give in the cork and when they lost that give and leaked, tighten them down a little more. The screws at the O's should have less torque on them as those screw are squashing less cork area.

Maybe I'm missing something though.

 

Same as last time, 5 ft/lbs then 10 ft/lbs. I think in the future I will only do 7 ft/lbs on the cork.


Not drinking this time, just inpatient and put them on before the copper dried.


After 12 hours under a heat lamp the copper spray on the OEM ones is tacky. New mani bolts arrive in a couple hours. I'll post a follow up after the install. I will have 2 extra sets of cork as back ups.

 

Metal oem plus copper spray setup for a few minutes and install. Cork you just use something that is tacky so they won't move on you and install. 5 then to 10 on the torquing sequence Looks like the copper spray ate the cork. No chemicals on the cork.

 

OEM copper sprayed gaskets went on easily, test drive seemed good. Didn't get the bolts or other gaskets today, maybee tomorrow.

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Now I just need to do some soldering work to finish the wideband.


In the mood for coffee tomorrow morning.

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