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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and DifferentialPost questions here that have to do with the engine, cooling system, air intake, exhaust, Transmission and Differential
Does anyone know if the oil level sensor that sticks up out of the upper oil pan is under oil if the oil level is full. Meaning... is all of the oil that is sitting in the pan BELOW where this sticks through the upper pan and the o-ring is only sealing splashed oil or the o-ring is submerged under the full oil level and under constant need to seal?
Or if the oil is deeper than the entire lower oil pan?
(Asking for technical advice on FB is not always helpful, is it? )
This may be quite simple to find, but awkward to do. Measure the size of the lower sump and calculate the volume.
If you have it out then it's no problem.
I don't know that anyone knows. I suspect that if you remove it without draining the oil (or most of it) you are going to have a mess.
Not looking to remove it without draining the oil, matter of fact you can't remove it without removing the lower pan since the sensor mounting screws are INSIDE the pan. I am wondering why the car just sitting no oil seep but driving I get trace dripping on heads of screws but never on pavement. I had a tablespoon on the inside of the plastic cover.
Because the answers here were so much more informative? ROFL
In general, they always are, yes.
And here, you will get far less nonsense answers. My favorite yesterday was the foolish remark that two plugs per cylinder only made sense in a HEMI.
In general, they always are, yes.
And here, you will get far less nonsense answers. My favorite yesterday was the foolish remark that two plugs per cylinder only made sense in a HEMI.
THAT was a classic Dunning-Kruger moment.
We have had some real winners here too.. "I got the EC tune and my car still runs lean" .. on an NA...
In general, they always are, yes.
And here, you will get far less nonsense answers. My favorite yesterday was the foolish remark that two plugs per cylinder only made sense in a HEMI.
you will have to drain the oil. It's not a terrible job, but it is quite messy. There is not a gasket for the oil pan you use RTV compound. Biggest pain for this job is cleaning the old RTV compound off the oil pan and the bottom of the engine. I don't remember the torque specs, but it's all aluminum so leave Gunther in the house and don't over tighten.
i may have created a how to way back in the day. You'll have to search for that. No promises though, it's been forever since I did it.
you will have to drain the oil. It's not a terrible job, but it is quite messy. There is not a gasket for the oil pan you use RTV compound. Biggest pain for this job is cleaning the old RTV compound off the oil pan and the bottom of the engine. I don't remember the torque specs, but it's all aluminum so leave Gunther in the house and don't over tighten.
i may have created a how to way back in the day. You'll have to search for that. No promises though, it's been forever since I did it.
I think I saw that how to! The job doesn't look too bad but I am more curious about the oil level in the pan itself as it relates to the o-ring on the sensor. I think the lower pan is smaller than 8 quarts so just how high is the oil above this sensor?
I think I saw that how to! The job doesn't look too bad but I am more curious about the oil level in the pan itself as it relates to the o-ring on the sensor. I think the lower pan is smaller than 8 quarts so just how high is the oil above this sensor?
i don't know, I waited until it was time to do an oil change when I replaced it.
Not looking to remove it without draining the oil, matter of fact you can't remove it without removing the lower pan since the sensor mounting screws are INSIDE the pan. I am wondering why the car just sitting no oil seep but driving I get trace dripping on heads of screws but never on pavement. I had a tablespoon on the inside of the plastic cover.
I think I saw and responded to conversion on FB too, as I've recently concluded my o-ring at the sensor is leaking. Like you, fluid seeps minimally during operation, nothing while cold. O-ring heated is already altered or under pressure, any imperfection and you'll experience seepage, until it's cooled, and retains to its original dimensions.